A different or modified lower mount could be used to avoid using a Rivnut in the side.
Looking at it, the lower mount puts the pivot very close to the position of the original strut's lower pivot... which is why the strut tucks in there so nice.
After watching it open by it self... I'm thinking my car's hatch needs stronger struts so I don't have to lift it at all. I think I need struts on the hood and I'm even considering putting a strut on the swing out (tailgate / tire rack) so all I need to do is lift the lever and watch it swing (and stay) open.
Did the same except bought two gas struts and exact fit brackets from @Racer65. I believe it took about 10 minutes to complete the job. Yes, more expensive but it was an exact fit and I supported a member here on MUD.
On to the hood. I mounted the above brackets and a pair of 19.7" long 50 lb struts on the Hood. I'll post some pics of the install, but so far I'm very happy. The hood will stay at the height it's lifted to and closes easily (it is essentially weightless). The flat plate brackets are mounted to the cowl by the firewall. The hood stays open at a somewhat higher angle than stock for better access without any post to interfere.
This mod is slightly more complicated than the rear hatch since there aren't holes to begin with.
I bent the flat brackets to match the body contour at the firewall. The Center pin is at about 2" up. I had to drill a new hole in the bracket because I'd drilled a holes in the body at 1.5" spacing for different brackets. Rather than having an extra hole in the body I drilled a new hole in the bracket.
The holes in the hood could be another half inch or so closer to the firewall. I'm happy with how high the hood opens, but if you want it to open a bit further you can. If it opens to far, the strut body will contact the underside of the hood when all the way open.