Build Stretched 1-Ton FJ40

[Mike Shull]

Small gains this weekend! The interior lights and rear marker lights have been wired!

I still have a little bit of wiring to go under the hood. I had an exciting adventure yesterday with the horns. Something happened to my right horn and it shorted out the left horn somehow and fried it. The right horn is sending power through the ground circuit went off, but then switches from power to ground when I press the horn button on the steering wheel—and the right horn works, but sounds like a sick bird. I disconnected both horns and I am getting constant power at the green/white wire and ground at the green/red wire when the horn button is pressed. I suppose that it is time for new horns.

 

[Firemedic831]

Black oak sent us some lights for Rubithon Raffle and they look good .

 

[Ditcherman]

Small gains this weekend! The interior lights and rear marker lights have been wired!

I still have a little bit of wiring to go under the hood. I had an exciting adventure yesterday with the horns. Something happened to my right horn and it shorted out the left horn somehow and fried it. The right horn is sending power through the ground circuit went off, but then switches from power to ground when I press the horn button on the steering wheel—and the right horn works, but sounds like a sick bird. I disconnected both horns and I am getting constant power at the green/white wire and ground at the green/red wire when the horn button is pressed. I suppose that it is time for new horns.

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I see the marker lights on, are the interior lights on the markers or in their own switch?
I just had that discussion Friday and told my guy I wouldn’t want them on the markers but also wasn’t going to try to fool with a fancy door switch, so a switch on the dash it will be I beleive.

 

[Mike Shull]

Black oak sent us some lights for Rubithon Raffle and they look good .

I am very impressed with the quality of the lights and I might also get a light bar from them.

I see the marker lights on, are the interior lights on the markers or in their own switch?
I just had that discussion Friday and told my guy I wouldn’t want them on the markers but also wasn’t going to try to fool with a fancy door switch, so a switch on the dash it will be I beleive.

The marker lights are hooked to the factory headlight switch.

 

[matzell]

I look forward to seeing this at SAS 9 this year.

 

[Mike Shull]

I look forward to seeing this at SAS 9 this year.

I’m excited and a little unsure about my decisions to register. Hopefully I can sort out the 4-wheel drive in February, which should give me an idea of how much work that I have ahead of me.

I am looking forward to meeting you and seeing Lynchburg Lemonade. Are you stretching it before the trip?

 

[matzell]

I’m excited and a little unsure about my decisions to register. Hopefully I can sort out the 4-wheel drive in February, which should give me an idea of how much work that I have ahead of me.

I am looking forward to meeting you and seeing Lynchburg Lemonade. Are you stretching it before the trip?

Hope so! I have been battling a sore ankle for the past 3 months, I got an MRI and go back to doc on Wed. I need to swap gears in my 80 and do final prep for my Moab trip in April, but plan to do a few changes including the stretch to LL before SAS. I will post on the LL thread as I make the transformation.

 

[Mike Shull]

Hope so! I have been battling a sore ankle for the past 3 months, I got an MRI and go back to doc on Wed. I need to swap gears in my 80 and do final prep for my Moab trip in April, but plan to do a few changes including the stretch to LL before SAS. I will post on the LL thread as I make the transformation.

I hope all went well at the doctors office.

 

[Mike Shull]

I’m back at it. I remade my air filter mount because the air box was too big and it was pinching my heater hoses. I’m going to attempt to tackle the dryer bracket next since it’s the very last thing that I need to make under the hood, at least for now.

 

[matzell]

I hope all went well at the doctors office.

Deep bone bruise at foot bone to leg bones. Should have been off it the past 3 month. I am going to need a few weekends off, at least KOH is on!

 

[Mike Shull]

The dryer is in. I don’t have much room to spare. I’ll finish the wiring tomorrow. I feel like I am working on a brand new Tacoma and my hands need a rest.

 

[Mike Shull]

Do you mean like this: BKOR BILLET CARRIER BEARING, 1.5"x10 spline shaft KIT - https://bustedknuckleoffroad.com/collections/carrier-bearings/products/bkor-billet-carrier-bearing-with-mount-1-5x10-spline-shaft

I am looking for a set of poly bushings for my front carrier bearing mount like the ones used in the Busted Knuckle Off Road carrier bearing kit (link above). I emailed BKOR to see if they would sell the bushings separately. Do you all have any other leads? I found some bushings on Amazon that are 1/2” ID and 1-1/2 OD and are 1/2” or 1” thick, but they don’t have sleeves and I don’t trust the durability. I can use a DOM bushing if I cut it down. What are other thoughts?

 

[Ditcherman]

I am looking for a set of poly bushings for my front carrier bearing mount like the ones used in the Busted Knuckle Off Road carrier bearing kit (link above). I emailed BKOR to see if they would sell the bushings separately. Do you all have any other leads? I found some bushings on Amazon that are 1/2” ID and 1-1/2 OD and are 1/2” or 1” thick, but they don’t have sleeves and I don’t trust the durability. I can use a DOM bushing if I cut it down. What are other thoughts?

Here’s some bushings that aren’t Amazon, but my real question is about the sleeve…
If you sleeve it (the inside with the bolt I assume?) aren’t you just basically hard mounting then when you compress the bushing to the sleeve? Or am I missing how the Busted Knuckle mount?

I would be a lot easier to cut a sleeve to the right length than a bushing, for me.

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I’m still waiting on a shaft from High Angle. He says the carrier bearing will have a spherical OD and housing to absorb flex from engine movement so it can be hard mounted. Others say this will break and I am having trouble seeing why. We use this kind of thing on PTO shafts behind tractors and they last for years. Hopefully it gets here before August which would actually be about a year.

 

[Mike Shull]

Here’s some bushings that aren’t Amazon, but my real question is about the sleeve…
If you sleeve it (the inside with the bolt I assume?) aren’t you just basically hard mounting then when you compress the bushing to the sleeve? Or am I missing how the Busted Knuckle mount?

I would be a lot easier to cut a sleeve to the right length than a bushing, for me.

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I’m still waiting on a shaft from High Angle. He says the carrier bearing will have a spherical OD and housing to absorb flex from engine movement so it can be hard mounted. Others say this will break and I am having trouble seeing why. We use this kind of thing on PTO shafts behind tractors and they last for years. Hopefully it gets here before August which would actually be about a year.

I also saw these on Summit’s website:

M.O.R.E. S10222 M.O.R.E. Long Drilled Sleeves | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - M.O.R.E. Long Drilled Sleeves with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Bushing Sleeves at Summit Racing.

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Energy Suspension 9.9530G Energy Suspension Polyurethane Pads | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Energy Suspension Polyurethane Pads with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Body Bushings at Summit Racing.

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I believe that the sleeve prevents the bushing from being crushed, though I’m not entirely certain that this is an issue if I sandwich the bushings between the mount and carrier bearing flange. I’d think that a sleeve would have to go all the way through the hole with a stepped bushing that is partially recessed in the mount like an engine mount to provide ample flex, but I don’t have that much material to work with to do that.

I might try a straight 1-1/2 OD x 1/2” ID 1/2” thick poly bushing without a sleeve from Energy Suspension.


On your setup, I’d wonder if there is a concern about road vibration, especially on dirt roads. I don’t know about my current setup but my SBC/SM465 moved a bit when I traveled down a bumpy road at speed. A tractor would probably never hit that sort of high speeds, but they also don’t have as much give in the suspension so maybe there is just as much movement on a tractor at lower speeds.

The good thing for us both is that this is the front driveline and we can do most everything in the San Juans and surrounding areas in 2-wheel drive. Worst case scenario is that we disengage the front end and get tugged up a few obstacles.

 

[Ditcherman]

I also saw these on Summit’s website:

M.O.R.E. S10222 M.O.R.E. Long Drilled Sleeves | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - M.O.R.E. Long Drilled Sleeves with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Bushing Sleeves at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

Energy Suspension 9.9530G Energy Suspension Polyurethane Pads | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Energy Suspension Polyurethane Pads with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Body Bushings at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I believe that the sleeve prevents the bushing from being crushed, though I’m not entirely certain that this is an issue if I sandwich the bushings between the mount and carrier bearing flange. I’d think that a sleeve would have to go all the way through the hole with a stepped bushing that is partially recessed in the mount like an engine mount to provide ample flex, but I don’t have that much material to work with to do that.

I might try a straight 1-1/2 OD x 1/2” ID 1/2” thick poly bushing without a sleeve from Energy Suspension.

I think you’ll be fine with this.

On your setup, I’d wonder if there is a concern about road vibration, especially on dirt roads. I don’t know about my current setup but my SBC/SM465 moved a bit when I traveled down a bumpy road at speed.

My concern is that when the engine moves around its axis from torque, the front shaft is on a different plane (the TC sticks out sideways), and while the ujoint flexes it creates a fulcrum point at the bearing, which in my mind needs to flex, and something is going to give, bushings, spherical OD, or a nice billet housing.
It’s just engine torque I’m thinking of.

A tractor would probably never hit that sort of high speeds, but they also don’t have as much give in the suspension so maybe there is just as much movement on a tractor at lower speeds.

The tractor thing I was referencing was about the rear power take off shaft, used to drive implements off the back, where one thing moves in relation to another and the bearing has to flex.
I think that spherical bearing may wear out fairly quick in it's housing, but it offers more initial free movement than mounting a rigid bearing on poly.

The good thing for us both is that this is the front driveline and we can do most everything in the San Juans and surrounding areas in 2-wheel drive. Worst case scenario is that we disengage the front end and get tugged up a few obstacles.

That is definitely not what the cool kids are doing!!
I’m in.

 

[matzell]

Bushed DOM Sleeve - R1087-C Kit for Spring Hangers | RuffStuff Specialties

Heavy-duty bushed DOM sleeve kit for spring and shackle hangers. 3lb steel construction with complete hardware. Perfect for crossmembers and traction bar builds.

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This work?

 

[Mike Shull]

Bushed DOM Sleeve - R1087-C Kit for Spring Hangers | RuffStuff Specialties

Heavy-duty bushed DOM sleeve kit for spring and shackle hangers. 3lb steel construction with complete hardware. Perfect for crossmembers and traction bar builds.

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This work?

Maybe if I redesign my mount. Currently my mount is built from two pieces of 3/8 steel plate and I was thinking of sandwiching bushings between the plate, but I was also considering remaking the bracket altogether using a DOM bushing.

Carrier Bearing Mount

Wide Open Design's Carrier Bearing Mount is a laser cut plate for mounting the Wide Open Design Carrier Bearings. Specifications Laser cut from 3/8" steel for optimal strength 1/2" holes Included Items 1 - Carrier Bearing Mount We also have the entire carrier bearing shaft kits available: 1350...

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[Ditcherman]

So I’m actually doing driveshaft stuff today as well.
Tom Wood says they can’t put a double Cardon in front of their carrier bearing so I was studying Busted Knuckles stuff, and noticed a fine point you might want to make note of - they have 4 pieces of poly, and the nuts on the bolts are locking nuts - this tells me that the holes the bolts go through may be oversized, with poly on either side of the mount plate and this is how they allow the carrier to tilt when torqued.

 

[Mike Shull]

So I’m actually doing driveshaft stuff today as well.
Tom Wood says they can’t put a double Cardon in front of their carrier bearing so I was studying Busted Knuckles stuff, and noticed a fine point you might want to make note of - they have 4 pieces of poly, and the nuts on the bolts are locking nuts - this tells me that the holes the bolts go through may be oversized, with poly on either side of the mount plate and this is how they allow the carrier to tilt when torqued.

Good points. I hadn’t noticed that. I may be crazy but I am thinking about switching to the Busted Knuckle setup and bending my own custom bracket in the H-brake. I will experiment one more time with the WOD mount but I’m not confident that it will be strong enough with bushings in there.

 

[Ditcherman]

Good points. I hadn’t noticed that. I may be crazy but I am thinking about switching to the Busted Knuckle setup and bending my own custom bracket in the H-brake. I will experiment one more time with the WOD mount but I’m not confident that it will be strong enough with bushings in there.

Been poking around as I have time and thinking about your mount.
What do you think the advantage of the Busted Knuckle mount would be, after you already have the WOD? They look similar to me from their videos, just BK welding their amount on first then machining the bearing race area, but as far as mounting goes I don't see much difference.
In watching some vid's it occurred to me that I'm solving my problems with a straight-off-the-transfer case shaft. No angles, just forward projection of the joint. If there is 1. some angle and 2. a slip joint involved, the slip would absorb the engine torque.

All that to ask if you have any angle involved, and if you have a slip joint involved? If so, mount away. (In my opinion, which may be exactly worth what you are paying for it!)

Assuming it does need to flex, can you modify the WOD mount plate and your frame to allow for those poly bushings?