Looks dang good. Get those front feet secured to the floor nice and tight before you put too much heat on the cage. It’s amazing how much stuff will move during/after welding. I usually have a bit of a battle getting things lined back up again
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
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Mike Shull
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For two days, it went really well with me only messing up a bit lol. Glad we got it done, Mike!
I always can lol. It wasn't super far for me this time, which was nice.
Great work DJ !
Thanks, Richard!
Mike Shull
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I’ve welded as much as I can reach. I’ll take it off in a few months to finish the welds and touch up some rough spots. I will also add grab handles, speaker mounts, interior light brackets and wire tie clips, etc.
I put the doors and bikini top on and took it for a spin. The cage is very well placed and it doesn’t block my vision or my clutch pedal. I’m very pleased. Thanks again, DJ.
I put the doors and bikini top on and took it for a spin. The cage is very well placed and it doesn’t block my vision or my clutch pedal. I’m very pleased. Thanks again, DJ.
I just noticed that as well.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Go up to 1302 on this page and zoom in on the first picture; is that not a windshield bar?
(Not a challenge, sincerely asking)
ETA or are you talking about something at dash level?
Mike Shull
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@Ditcherman is right. There is a bar across the top of the windshield. I didn’t want another bar across the dashboard.
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@Ditcherman, yes. Dash level.
I understand esthetics. But if you ever need to rely on that cage, it will fold in or out at the bottom of the windshield, causing the roof to collapse. If you’re upside down, that’s a big deal. It’s especially worse with the double bend you have right their.
Even a piece of 1” would be better than nothing.
More importantly, to be truly effective there would need to be X bracing behind the the front seats at the mid bar. But that would block access to the back seat and take more of what little leg there is already.
In the end it's all a trade off, that roll bar looks great and is 100 times better then not have one at all.
In the end it's all a trade off, that roll bar looks great and is 100 times better then not have one at all.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Like almost every single part of my build at least, it’s all a compromise.
Are we rolling all the way down Black Bear and living to tell about it or are we protecting the grandkids from a light flop?
I intend to not out drive the rollbar I build. At least with the grandkids.
But it will be wide open for criticism and improvement.
Are we rolling all the way down Black Bear and living to tell about it or are we protecting the grandkids from a light flop?
I intend to not out drive the rollbar I build. At least with the grandkids.
But it will be wide open for criticism and improvement.
I didn’t mean to criticize, just pointing out facts.
No need to worry about a dash bar if there’s no cross braces
No one means to role down Black Bear but it happens. At that I don’t think any role bar is going to save you.
For what I do with my 80 it should have a role bar but doesn’t
No need to worry about a dash bar if there’s no cross braces
No one means to role down Black Bear but it happens. At that I don’t think any role bar is going to save you.
For what I do with my 80 it should have a role bar but doesn’t
Mike Shull
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No sweat. I hope that everyone is able to jump out if we ever go off the side of Black Bear.
I hopped back under the hood today to rewire the fans and finalize the engine compartment. I have quite a bit of work to do under here that should keep me busy for a few weekends, including moving the wiring and hose for the washer fluid reservoir, move some things around and make a bracket for the A/C dryer, get the winch wired and a chassis ground installed.
Here is a before picture. The after picture might not be available until February. Ha!
I hopped back under the hood today to rewire the fans and finalize the engine compartment. I have quite a bit of work to do under here that should keep me busy for a few weekends, including moving the wiring and hose for the washer fluid reservoir, move some things around and make a bracket for the A/C dryer, get the winch wired and a chassis ground installed.
Here is a before picture. The after picture might not be available until February. Ha!
Mike Shull
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I don’t have a ton of updates to share, but I am about 75% of the way through buttoning up the wiring under the hood. My Spal fans are hooked to a 195 to 205° temperature sensor and are now wired to be variable speed, which is quite nice. I have also hooked in a manual override to the air conditioning compressor that switches the fans to 100% when the compressor is running. I highly recommend this wiring configuration as it eliminated my relays which I will repurpose for another use. Simple and seems reliable.
I also picked up some 2/0 welding cable and terminals that I will use to build a new winch power and chassis ground to the battery. I’ll upload some pictures once I get the wiring organized.
On another note, I’ve also made four brackets for my interior lights and welded in some zip tie tabs to secure the wiring. I put four Black Oak LED rock lights on the roll cage, two behind the front seats and two in the rear of the cage.
I am hoping to have the main wiring complete this weekend, which is quite a milestone considering that I started to rewire it one year ago.
I also picked up some 2/0 welding cable and terminals that I will use to build a new winch power and chassis ground to the battery. I’ll upload some pictures once I get the wiring organized.
On another note, I’ve also made four brackets for my interior lights and welded in some zip tie tabs to secure the wiring. I put four Black Oak LED rock lights on the roll cage, two behind the front seats and two in the rear of the cage.
I am hoping to have the main wiring complete this weekend, which is quite a milestone considering that I started to rewire it one year ago.
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