- Thread starter
- #1,361
I won’t have opposing angles on the front shaft if I drop the carrier bearing. The exhaust needs to be redone in that area as I took a sledgehammer to the pipe so that I could tuck the carrier bearing up higher.
Build Stretched 1-Ton FJ40
- Thread starter Mike Shull
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Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Whoa that sounds like something I’d do!
Don’t do what I’d do!
- Thread starter
- #1,363
@matzell …
Yes a 1350 cv on the fixed in should make it nice and smooth. the the other two joints can be on their own as far as angles. You can try to make the single joints the same or leave them. the cv will not care if it is not at the same angle as those.
- Thread starter
- #1,365
I’ve lost a bit of confidence in the durability of the WOD carrier bearing. I noticed this morning that the bearing had failed sometime over the weekend and I only put five or 6 miles on it. The folks at the driveline shop that I dropped the driveshaft off with this morning seemed a bit leery about the set up. I hope that I left it in good hands. They are into the rock buggy scene so I would imagine that they know what they’re doing, and I’ve had a few shafts built there before.
Hopefully the carrier bearing was damaged when the u-joint at the case was binding and the CV and balancing will prevent further damage.
Hopefully the carrier bearing was damaged when the u-joint at the case was binding and the CV and balancing will prevent further damage.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
At least it’s nice to have a shop that knows what’s up, that’s worth something even if it’s conflicting info!to WOD.
Tom Woods now recommends a spherical bearing. Maybe they always have, but i don’t remember it. There’s a link to the bearing they use in their custom driveshaft page, direct from a supplier.
While your driveshaft is being remade might be worth a look.
- Thread starter
- #1,367
I am certainly considering all options and I may give High Angle Driveline a call later this morning as @matzell did. Given that my carrier bearing failed, I do not think that a spherical bearing will hold up to the force.
We will see what happens by the end of the day, but I might go a completely different route altogether and follow what Matzell did. I am willing to give the WOD bearing another shot, but I will definitely be putting it through intense testing before I venture too far away from home.
I think the WOD carrier bearing should work as long as you do not have much movement of the t-case. A lot of those rock bouncers have solid mounted engines/t-cases/ I know I have mounts on the back of each cylinder head to hold mine as well as the one on each side.
Something like this:
bustedknuckleoffroad.com
with the same sleeved bushing on each one. basically 6 mounts holding the drive train in.
Something like this:
LS Head Mounts
LS Head mounts: - American made out of 1/4" steel - Laser cut - comes with (1) drivers side [bk21] and (1) passenger side [bk20]
bustedknuckleoffroad.com
- Thread starter
- #1,369
I have a set of energy suspension 3/4” tall leaf spring bushings coming that I was hoping to sandwich between the wide open design mount. I’ve looked down at my transmission shift tower as I drive down bumpy roads and it doesn’t move much, though none of these mounts are broken in, and I bet it will flex more as it ages. My transfer case mount has a DOM sleeved bushing at the tail end which allows for a little bit of movement, but it’s pretty solid otherwise. Hopefully there’s enough movement back there to relieve any stress on the case. That is another conversation.I think the WOD carrier bearing should work as long as you do not have much movement of the t-case. A lot of those rock bouncers have solid mounted engines/t-cases/ I know I have mounts on the back of each cylinder head to hold mine as well as the one on each side.
Something like this:
with the same sleeved bushing on each one. basically 6 mounts holding the drive train in.LS Head Mounts
LS Head mounts: - American made out of 1/4" steel - Laser cut - comes with (1) drivers side [bk21] and (1) passenger side [bk20]
- Thread starter
- #1,370
The driveline shop paused because the carrier housing is damaged and they don’t recommend making a new one. They would like to see the Cruiser and are recommending that I use a pillow block carrier as you posted above.
I called HAD and Jesse recommends the same action, plus he strongly encouraged me to lower my transfer case. I may zip the transfer case bolts off to see how easy it would be to rotate it. It looks like the plasma cutter might be making another appearance.
I think everyone trys for a flat belly. It usually ends up way to tall. Most race cars (Ultra4) have a 18-20" belly and a good skid plate. It really helps wth all the angles of the driveline. 40" tire, axle center 20", t-case output of a flat t-case is not much more than 5-6".
- Thread starter
- #1,372
What do you mean about the last part being much more than 5-6”? Are you saying not much lower than the frame?
I am sitting at 23” at the bottom-center of my frame with a relatively flat belly so I have room to rotate the front output down by 3-5”+. I had it that way initially and I should have left it there.
Yes, the t-case output would be about 5-6" from center line to the bottom of case, that would be just above the frame. If you can lower it/clock it down, I am sure that will help, but will also get you closer to the transmission .
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Did he say what the wait time was for one?
Just curious, I sent him a check end of August.
- Thread starter
- #1,375
Thanks for the reminder. I didn’t ask about the lead time but I can’t wait that long. I’ll probably have the shaft made at my local driveline shop.
What is happening with your shaft? Did you scratch HAD and go with Tom Woods?
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Tom Woods is making all my driveshafts, should ship this week.
If Jesse wants to make the short carrier shaft and gets it done soon, I might have the front part made and have a spare, although that’s stupid money spent.
If he’s too busy because it’s race season now or whatever and wants to give my money back that’s fine too. I don’t think I’m hard to please.
Not wanting to bring drama to your thread at all and trying to just state the facts. I will say Jesse has more confidence in his shaft being good than Tom Woods does as far as strength and vibration free. Maybe Tom Woods wants to keep expectation low because they know people can do dumb stuff with 2 piece shafts and they have no control over it.
Just speculating here.
- Thread starter
- #1,377
I’m sure that it will all work out and I’ll be watching your post (or here) for updates.
I came to the senses that I need to cut out my 4-link cross brace and reconfigure it so that it bolts to the frame and it is removable. I will be able to get my transfer case out once the cross brace is off and I will clock my transfer case down a notch, then remake my transmission mount to clear the front driveshaft. Once this is done I will be able to have a new intermittent shaft made to length and create a new carrier mount.
This should only take 7-10 days given my toolset and ability so I may have this done by April. Ha. That gives me 3 months (~25 available working days) to finish the cage, sliders, bumpers, top and interior before SAS. I might be calling in for reinforcements, @DangerNoodle.
My best work is always the night before a big trip .
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Not at you, with you.
You guys are doing work before trips? I grab the tape, cross my fingers, close one eye and hope for the best and ignore any new sounds