- Thread starter
- #101
Plan on grabbing f250 towers...
Builds Yeller Gold
- Thread starter Ol Yeller
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
You’ll be glad you did. Trading that upper threaded stem mount for an eye mount is a game changer.
- Thread starter
- #103
Had our local club Xmas dinner last night, was lucky enough to come home with the big prize...going to need a rear power source now.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Score 
- Thread starter
- #105
Antipig update...
Basement has started, what it looks like when an electrician does plumbing & framing.
And my dads latest project the girls named “Doris D” is getting close, we dragged it home almost 20 years ago now, that’s a 500cu 2 cyl.
Basement has started, what it looks like when an electrician does plumbing & framing.
And my dads latest project the girls named “Doris D” is getting close, we dragged it home almost 20 years ago now, that’s a 500cu 2 cyl.
- Thread starter
- #106
More projects that don’t go “oink”
My girl (and I) spent the last month slowly getting her scouts racer together, race day was today and she did great, 3rd fastest and Best in Show.
My girl (and I) spent the last month slowly getting her scouts racer together, race day was today and she did great, 3rd fastest and Best in Show.
Cool stuff
RUSH55
SILVER Star
You cut off her head!
- Thread starter
- #109
Man I’m outta sorts with researching stuff, trying to see if this is a valid rear brake combination...he mentions a better proportional balance to front 60 calipers. I found where these are 43mm piston.
And using the first on-line bias calculator I found...it seems like not much front bias?
@GRM any input?
Look at the surface area of the piston. It gives the story.
FJ60: 3.63in2
IFS Toyota (FJ60 upgrade calipers): 4.46in2
Mustang: 2.25in2
Monte Carlo: 4.91in2
- Thread starter
- #113
Small progress update - been a bit delayed with working on the new TT we bought for our big family trip this summer - which is probably not happening now.
Got after part of the front hangers today, my boy came out and was great to get some shop time in. I gotta thank Rush55 for messaging back n forth on ideas.
I have a couple lengths (I bought months ago) of 4” 3/16 bar I’m using for most of this, need to grab an appropriate drill for the 14mm pin still as I only have 1/2 and 9/16.
Layout, wd40 can is exact radius of stock hanger...
Showed my son how to cheat a hole bigger with running a hole saw in on angle, I only had 1 3/8”...stuff they don’t teach in shop class.
So as these spring hangers will be staying rear of front axle and they will hang a bit lower than stock hangers I’ll need to figure out a suitable height for the front shackle hangers next.
Got after part of the front hangers today, my boy came out and was great to get some shop time in. I gotta thank Rush55 for messaging back n forth on ideas.
I have a couple lengths (I bought months ago) of 4” 3/16 bar I’m using for most of this, need to grab an appropriate drill for the 14mm pin still as I only have 1/2 and 9/16.
Layout, wd40 can is exact radius of stock hanger...
Showed my son how to cheat a hole bigger with running a hole saw in on angle, I only had 1 3/8”...stuff they don’t teach in shop class.
So as these spring hangers will be staying rear of front axle and they will hang a bit lower than stock hangers I’ll need to figure out a suitable height for the front shackle hangers next.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Right on! Looking forward to seeing how you tackle this!
- Thread starter
- #115
Pig time tonight, roughed in a mini scab plate for the shackle hanger (yet to be built) and then tackled an ugly job.
I think this will be enough to spread the load from the shackle hanger, I’m open to comments before I weld them on.
Pass shock tower removal with the inner fender etc in the way was not much fun, my wife asked when I came in what I was beating on...she usually doesn’t hear much in the house from the shop unless I have the big door open.
Still need to dress it with the grinder.
I think this will be enough to spread the load from the shackle hanger, I’m open to comments before I weld them on.
Pass shock tower removal with the inner fender etc in the way was not much fun, my wife asked when I came in what I was beating on...she usually doesn’t hear much in the house from the shop unless I have the big door open.
Still need to dress it with the grinder.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
So far, so good! Wait to tack if you can until you have your other pieces ready, then clamp them together to make sure it’s all square. Next I’d suggest spraying the frame and back side of the scab with some weld-through primer or high zinc primer. Mock your plate after it dries and mark the outline and sand off the paint just around the outline where you’re gonna weld it. Then for additional insurance, use that string measuring procedure to make sure they’re in line with each other on top of the measurements you’re already going off of.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Stay away from welding over Zinc 
. Not good for you!! Ever weld Galvy, you'll know what I'm talking about!!
. Not good for you!! Ever weld Galvy, you'll know what I'm talking about!!
Stay away from welding over Zinc
Should add a “Chlorinated Brake Cleaner” warning to this PSA.
Safety Alert! Brake Cleaner = Phosgene Gas
Brew Bikes LLC 828-406-6668 Phone & Text. brewdude@brewracingframes.com BREW is a registered trademark and NO images or use without written consent.
www.brewracingframes.com
RUSH55
SILVER Star
All weld-through primer is high in zinc. It's why I mention to sand it off where you're gonna weld. HTH.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
This SEM’s weld primer. Rustoleum makes a version too. Just something to protect the metal between. Always open to better suggestions. I know SEM also makes a Copperweld primer, but I don’t have any experience with it.
