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Was shooting for having the front axle on the ground, just u bolts to go so almost there, doing it all by hand no air tools just because.

Was trying to note the position of stuff as I removed it for reference when I lay out the new hangers and PS box.

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Trying to get a rough target measurement for the pitman arm

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Spring hangers are pretty much 10 1/2” from the leading edge of body mounts

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Suprised I didn’t really fight any rusted bolts to strip all the steering.
 
Both axles out today.
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Found out the 60 PS box and the alternator want the same real estate? I wasn’t planning to move the alternator :hmm:

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Why is the alt over there? That’s not where it belongs.
No idea, I assumed it was supposed to be there? So I need a bracket and some wire harness do I?
 
OK I just went looking, @lowtideride has this pic early in his thread so I guess in 74 that’s where they put them.

2023536
 
Well I know on mine (77) the alt was/is originally on the passenger side, with plenty of room on the driver side for the ps pump.
It certainly looks like it would be easier if that were the case.
 
OK here’s an idea, someone will tell me if I’m off...what if I spaced the PS box outboard a bit when I weld the frame sleeves in?
I’m thinking 3/4” off the frame, I’m doing a custom steering rod regardless.
 
Does you head have the bolt holes there?
No idea right now, the 74 would have had a 1.5F from what I’ve read, the SN on this motor shows a 75 2F
 
Looking for input on the correct order of operations on the front suspension:

  1. Outboard the hangers - as I’m using OME springs can I just match the factory spacing for the shackles? (as opposed to trying to set the shackle angle, I have a winch coming but not on yet)
  2. Place the axle with only the main leaf on each side
  3. Identify the correct PS box location by cycling the suspension (so the pitman arm misses the tie rod)
  4. Weld the top shock tab on the 62 axle and measure for shocks
  5. Measure and fab/buy a relay rod

Thanks, Jason.
 
If you place your hangers so that your pin centers are in the same location in relation to your frame, thus having the same distance as factory AND the OME are built to fit that distance, then I’ll say “yes” to step one. I would also recommend to only throw a few stitch welds on in case for whatever reason you need to cut something loose and readjust. After the suspension has been hooked up and everything fits correctly, then do the finish welding. Are you planning on running any kind of scab plate between the frame and hanger or welding hangers directly? I don’t think a scab plate is absolutely necessary, but they are nice to spread out the forces and pressures to a wider area. Also allows you to run non-perpendicular welds to your frame. This is also debatable on how much perpendicular welds will affect the frame of a light duty vehicle (lots of guys have welded their frames this way without issue). In commercial trucking and other heavy duty applications, you try to avoid vertical welds like the plague. Guess it’s a matter of preference. I’ve seen some pretty hardcore rigs with vertical welds and be fine for years. But it does create a weak spot and would potentially crack there (or along side it) before it cracks anywhere else.


Not sure if I understand why you would only install the main leaf🤷‍♂️
 
I would match the factory spacing for the shackles and just tack them somewhere easy to grind back off, place the axle with only the main leaf on each side and cycle the suspension with shocks mounted and see if you can get something close to full shock travel without your shackles inverting. I’m guessing no so you’ll have to make some adjustments to find a happy compromise.

Once you establish your final shock and shackle attachment points reassemble your springs set all the weight on the front end and cut and turn your balls to get more caster. Set your steering box and call Luke at 4X4 labs to get your steering parts sorted before you burn everything in.





FYI, @Lil'John used some sliders on one of his rigs and they will make your life much easier, I wish I would have gone down that path when I did mine.



Not sure of the brand he used but they look like this.



Leaf Spring Slider Kit, Universal - Liquid Iron Industries
 
Thanks for the quick responses! I’ve spent waaay to much time armchair building this thing and now that I’m actually cutting mounts off the frame it’s getting real in a hurry.

@RUSH55 The main leaf only idea is just to make cycling the suspension easier on the hoist.

I’ll find my picture I like of how the hangers were out boarded, plated and not vertical welded

@J Mack I’m sticking with the shackles and leaving them up front on this build ( I already have new anti-inversion shackles) trying to keep it looking somewhat period (I’m rebuilding the front bench seat too) but I did like the sliders John used when I saw them in his build.

I have a couple of local shops that can do the relay rod, I already bought all new 555 ends and a stock 60 tie rod from Kurt.

Question - assume I need to set the steering box before the DS shock mount?

Also what is the threshold of lift before a cut & turn? I’m only planning something like 3” (just the OME springs) so wasn’t planning to C&T, but can...
 
Here is my inspiration on the hanger, unfortunately I can’t recall who’s build thread I found it in.

2025607
 
Question - assume I need to set the steering box before the DS shock mount?

Also what is the threshold of lift before a cut & turn? I’m only planning something like 3” (just the OME springs) so wasn’t planning to C&T, but can...
On mine the shocks are mounted in the stock’ish location so the upper mounts are straight above the axle, steering box needs to be in front of that if using a 60 or Scout box so they have to go where they go if that makes sense, you don't have a lot of choices so that should be the easy part.



When I looked it up a factory non-power steering 1976 fj55 had like 1° or 1.5° of caster, probably OK for 55MPH driving and manual steering. When you add lift springs they are longer by default and the front shackles also need to be longer to accommodate, your new longer shackles will remove any caster you once had and probably put you in the negative just about making it un-drivable with power steering and bigger tires.



I didn’t mention it before but you might look into moving your axle forward ¾” to 1” when you’re doing all this, with the stationary pivot in the rear when you raise with leaf springs the axle moves back, I didn’t like the look of the front wheel so far back in the wheel well so I moved mine forward 1” and it also helped with clearance with the 35” tires.
 
Great info, I like the tip on moving the axle fw, I’ll endeavor to get it right!

:beer:
 
Here is my inspiration on the hanger, unfortunately I can’t recall who’s build thread I found it in.

View attachment 2025607

That’s a great looking mount👍
A little different than what I’ve been seeing - almost an emulation of a domestic truck mount. Very beefy with what looks to be 70 - 75 degrees as opposed to 90.
 
@J Mack I’m sticking with the shackles and leaving them up front on this build ( I already have new anti-inversion shackles) trying to keep it looking somewhat period (I’m rebuilding the front bench seat too) but I did like the sliders John used when I saw them in his build.
I did both "shackles and bench seat" for the same reasons and don't regret either one of those decisions but, I'm not as comfortable as the guys with modern buckets and getting the front shackles right was a PITA.
YMMV but I couldn't get an aceptable range of motion with the OME shackles if I wanted all the available travel in the springs.
 

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