Started on my cooling system project that was motivated by a leaking lower radiator hose. Probably could have just tighened the clamp, but made for an excuse to do other things if I was draining the system.
Drained the coolant using the lower hose + trash bag + bucket method. Worked great.
Removed and replaced all hoses at the front of the engine with new Toyota hoses and City Racer stainless OEM style clamps.
Painted the lower radiator/heater union. Mine is the older school one with the BSP threaded port.
Removed the heater and heater valve.
Put a BSPT tee and shutoff valve on the block to replace the heater circuit connection. Installed a plug until I I am ready to install the rebuilt heater.
Put a BSPT 90deg and shutoff valve on the union pipe to close off that side of the heater circuit. Plugged that too.
Replaced the NPT square head plug I used on the radiator drain over a decade ago with one of the extended drains from CityRacer.
Pic of the lower shutoff.
Refilled the coolant. No leaks cold. Started and ran for about 30min, no leaks. Need to go for a drive to get it good an warm and then recheck the coolant levels. But it took about 1/2 gallon less than I drained, which seems about right with the heater not be intalled.
One of the other projects as to finally rebuilt and install the spare front heater I got nearly a decade ago. So too that apart, mitigated the rust (the core must have had a leak).
I picked up to paint options for the metal parts: Rustoleum Metallic Flat Soft Iron mentioned
in this thread. The other option was Rustoleum Matte Metallic Gunmetal. The Soft Iron is the darker one, Gunmetal the lighter. I test pained the metal top piece that goes under the plastic top of th heater in Soft Iron and the Vent/Heat flap in Gunmetal. Neither is quite an exact match for the 10/73 heater box that came in my truck. I'm leaning towards the gunmetal as it has less metallic flake in it.