Just a little heat and it will bend very easily
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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I added a few more bolt holes and slid mine back farther from the shift lever as well... worked out very nice and only took about 10min to redrill the new holes (also added brackets to the passenger seat bracket to allow it to move back another ~2" as well to give a little more passenger leg room.)
I used a 1/2" emt bender to nudge my shifter just a bit, plenty of room now for bigger mugs in the cup holder on the Tuffy console.
I also added some thin foam to the part of the cup holder that the bottom of the mug rests on, it eventually turns into an annoying rattle without some sort of cushion down there.
It would have been. I’m stretching the frame 24”. Just about done with that portion. The driveshaft would have been about 10” long.
Looks good. That’s going to be a short rear driveline. Curious what the measurements are on that?
Ambulance door lower latch rebuilt and fabrication.
The door had the cage for the latch but not the inner striker, fabricated for about $10.00 and some welding splatter. The items were purchased from ACE hardware, excellent selection of small screws and parts in metric.
The door had the cage for the latch but not the inner striker, fabricated for about $10.00 and some welding splatter. The items were purchased from ACE hardware, excellent selection of small screws and parts in metric.
Nice job on the refurb.
Were the 3 holes for the regulator pre-drilled?I got mine used from SOR.
026-09B-UFJ40, FJ45, FJ55 Sending Unit, Oil Lines, and Regulator - 1958-9/73 - Specter Off-Road
Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and to the newest Land Cruiser, Non USA or domestic 40 Series, 60 Series 80 Series or 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in...www.sor.com
Started the only rust repair I've found.
Took 2.0 to the skeet range..
Still a good Mule.
Still a good Mule.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
The regulator is on the engine block. This plate is for mounting the oil filter bracket to the manifold. It is drilled with 6 holes. Two are threaded for the Oil Filter bracket. 4 are not and mate to the manifold with one long through bolt holding the bracket to the plate into the manifold.
I noticed my barely worn, 11 year old muds are showing their age.
I don’t drive Lamar nearly enough.
I don’t drive Lamar nearly enough.
Dont know what i was thinking, calling it a regulator.
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Looks like you need some new shoes!I noticed my barely worn, 11 year old muds are showing their age.
I don’t drive Lamar nearly enough.
To possibly save others from pain and suffering. If you have to change out a fuel pump with an insulator and gaskets (79+) that hasn’t been messed with in over a decade (or four). Tape the fuel pump hole and place a piece of tape over the insulator after removing the pump itself. I made the mistake of doing neither and as I was prying off the insulator it decided to break and that piece fell into the fuel pump hole of the block and rest in the oil pan.
I really did not want to drop the pan at this point in time to get it out. So I bought a cheap endoscope/boroscope that hooks up to my phone and proceeded to waste away 3 hours of my life fishing that f****r out. Between the little hook attachment and some duck tape I emerged victorious only because that insulator piece hadn’t dropped off into the main area where the engine oil sits. Please avoid this at all costs.
I really did not want to drop the pan at this point in time to get it out. So I bought a cheap endoscope/boroscope that hooks up to my phone and proceeded to waste away 3 hours of my life fishing that f****r out. Between the little hook attachment and some duck tape I emerged victorious only because that insulator piece hadn’t dropped off into the main area where the engine oil sits. Please avoid this at all costs.
Green Bean
SILVER Star
Great recovery.
Finally sanded/painted sourced everything to put my front grill back together
Green Bean
SILVER Star
6f40j9
SILVER Star
Installed a remflex gasket. So much nicer.
6f40j9
SILVER Star
Actually took it for a drive this morning and the difference is amazing. When I installed it, I started it and ran it for a minute or so, but it’s so much nicer to drive now. I had no idea how loud it was compared to what it’s supposed to be.
Started on my cooling system project that was motivated by a leaking lower radiator hose. Probably could have just tighened the clamp, but made for an excuse to do other things if I was draining the system.
Drained the coolant using the lower hose + trash bag + bucket method. Worked great.
Removed and replaced all hoses at the front of the engine with new Toyota hoses and City Racer stainless OEM style clamps.
Painted the lower radiator/heater union. Mine is the older school one with the BSP threaded port.
Removed the heater and heater valve.
Put a BSPT tee and shutoff valve on the block to replace the heater circuit connection. Installed a plug until I I am ready to install the rebuilt heater.
Put a BSPT 90deg and shutoff valve on the union pipe to close off that side of the heater circuit. Plugged that too.
Replaced the NPT square head plug I used on the radiator drain over a decade ago with one of the extended drains from CityRacer.
Pic of the lower shutoff.
Refilled the coolant. No leaks cold. Started and ran for about 30min, no leaks. Need to go for a drive to get it good an warm and then recheck the coolant levels. But it took about 1/2 gallon less than I drained, which seems about right with the heater not be intalled.
One of the other projects as to finally rebuilt and install the spare front heater I got nearly a decade ago. So too that apart, mitigated the rust (the core must have had a leak).
I picked up to paint options for the metal parts: Rustoleum Metallic Flat Soft Iron mentioned in this thread. The other option was Rustoleum Matte Metallic Gunmetal. The Soft Iron is the darker one, Gunmetal the lighter. I test pained the metal top piece that goes under the plastic top of th heater in Soft Iron and the Vent/Heat flap in Gunmetal. Neither is quite an exact match for the 10/73 heater box that came in my truck. I'm leaning towards the gunmetal as it has less metallic flake in it.
Drained the coolant using the lower hose + trash bag + bucket method. Worked great.
Removed and replaced all hoses at the front of the engine with new Toyota hoses and City Racer stainless OEM style clamps.
Painted the lower radiator/heater union. Mine is the older school one with the BSP threaded port.
Removed the heater and heater valve.
Put a BSPT tee and shutoff valve on the block to replace the heater circuit connection. Installed a plug until I I am ready to install the rebuilt heater.
Put a BSPT 90deg and shutoff valve on the union pipe to close off that side of the heater circuit. Plugged that too.
Replaced the NPT square head plug I used on the radiator drain over a decade ago with one of the extended drains from CityRacer.
Pic of the lower shutoff.
Refilled the coolant. No leaks cold. Started and ran for about 30min, no leaks. Need to go for a drive to get it good an warm and then recheck the coolant levels. But it took about 1/2 gallon less than I drained, which seems about right with the heater not be intalled.
One of the other projects as to finally rebuilt and install the spare front heater I got nearly a decade ago. So too that apart, mitigated the rust (the core must have had a leak).
I picked up to paint options for the metal parts: Rustoleum Metallic Flat Soft Iron mentioned in this thread. The other option was Rustoleum Matte Metallic Gunmetal. The Soft Iron is the darker one, Gunmetal the lighter. I test pained the metal top piece that goes under the plastic top of th heater in Soft Iron and the Vent/Heat flap in Gunmetal. Neither is quite an exact match for the 10/73 heater box that came in my truck. I'm leaning towards the gunmetal as it has less metallic flake in it.