Ok, that's helpful information. If the paint is good enough, can you use the oil and then the wax?
Builds Moe Green - Tilda Bogue Service Station (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
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No oil on the places you will wax.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Sound advice during bikini season.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Speaking of bikinis, I installed the bikini top today. Pretty straight forward once I decided that the track for the front of the top and the hardware for the straps in the rear can't be mounted to a 1975 FJ40 in their current configuration.
Each side of the rail has four bolt holes. The windshield frame is three bolts on one side, three on the other and one in the middle. Also only one hole in the rail lines up with the frame holes - you choose. I attached the outermost section of the rail to the factory bolt insert and then drilled and tapped the other far end of the rail to the frame. You could drill and tap two more in the middle but it seems like overkill and I'd like to drill as few holes as possible in this truck.
I did have to drill and tap two more in the back because that hardware appears to be intended to be mounted to bolt inserts in the curvature of the rear quarters. But the hardware isn't curved so the bolts won't line up. So I attached one side to an existing hardtop mount hole and drilled and tapped another on each side. I'm pretty good at drilling and tapping by now.
Now I'll sit back and be happy to have someone tell me how I should have done this because I'm usually all goofed up on this stuff. The shade is nice and it's pretty darn quiet - surprisingly so.
Each side of the rail has four bolt holes. The windshield frame is three bolts on one side, three on the other and one in the middle. Also only one hole in the rail lines up with the frame holes - you choose. I attached the outermost section of the rail to the factory bolt insert and then drilled and tapped the other far end of the rail to the frame. You could drill and tap two more in the middle but it seems like overkill and I'd like to drill as few holes as possible in this truck.
I did have to drill and tap two more in the back because that hardware appears to be intended to be mounted to bolt inserts in the curvature of the rear quarters. But the hardware isn't curved so the bolts won't line up. So I attached one side to an existing hardtop mount hole and drilled and tapped another on each side. I'm pretty good at drilling and tapping by now.
Now I'll sit back and be happy to have someone tell me how I should have done this because I'm usually all goofed up on this stuff. The shade is nice and it's pretty darn quiet - surprisingly so.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
I also scrubbed surface rust on the rear quarters and door frames today. It was honestly pretty effective if tedious.
Got the remainder of the gasket leftovers off as well. Then waxed those areas to seal them up. All cleaned up well. It'll be ready when the hardtop repairs are complete.
Got the remainder of the gasket leftovers off as well. Then waxed those areas to seal them up. All cleaned up well. It'll be ready when the hardtop repairs are complete.
rex in bama
SILVER Star
Looks great! CLR? That stuff can work wonders
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
rex in bama
SILVER Star
Yep, that works too!
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Replaced the weather stripping on all the doors. It was time. Some of it peeled right off, some not so much. I used a small putty knife and 3M general purpose adhesive cleaner. Tedious elbow grease work but goes pretty fast.
I used OEM seals and black 3M weatherstrip adhesive. It took a full tube to do four doors. I put the seals in place for each door with binder clips and then worked my way around with the adhesive, removing and replacing clips. The orientation of the seals sorts itself out - they only go on one way. The rear doors are unique and it's obvious. The front doors are basically the same. The bags for the seals are labeled left and right and it's easy to translate that to DS and PS. I had some rot at the bottom of one rear door so cleaned that up and hit it with some Rust Bullet before the seals went on.
The adhesive starts to tack up pretty quickly in 80 degree weather and I just rotated the clips around to spots that weren't adhering for 30 minutes or so and by then, the seals had settled right in. After an hour or so, you can move on to the next door.
They're not perfect but I'm sure when I get the hardtop back on, will make a big difference - especially with all new hardtop seals as well.
Carry on.
I used OEM seals and black 3M weatherstrip adhesive. It took a full tube to do four doors. I put the seals in place for each door with binder clips and then worked my way around with the adhesive, removing and replacing clips. The orientation of the seals sorts itself out - they only go on one way. The rear doors are unique and it's obvious. The front doors are basically the same. The bags for the seals are labeled left and right and it's easy to translate that to DS and PS. I had some rot at the bottom of one rear door so cleaned that up and hit it with some Rust Bullet before the seals went on.
The adhesive starts to tack up pretty quickly in 80 degree weather and I just rotated the clips around to spots that weren't adhering for 30 minutes or so and by then, the seals had settled right in. After an hour or so, you can move on to the next door.
They're not perfect but I'm sure when I get the hardtop back on, will make a big difference - especially with all new hardtop seals as well.
Carry on.
You could have also drilled new holes in the channel. This would have allowed you to use the captive nuts in the top of the windshield frame.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
That was my initial approach but when I did that, one side of the channel buckled up in the center because there's only one captive nut in the middle of the window frame.
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Couple screw holes in that old battle wagon won’t hurt it
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
While I had the patient on the table, I also tightened every nut and bolt I could find. I expect the noise level in the truck to be reduced to Motley Crue levels.
rex in bama
SILVER Star
Looks good! Just finished that myself and do not want to do it again. I used the CR version - much cheaper than OEM but is a bit more finicky when it comes to adhesion. It’s amazing how new rubber takes care of the rattles
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Back from the body shop. Rust on the hardtop repaired, new seals installed between the cap and the sides and the sides and the body. The seal for the DS rear window is new too. Left the body alone. I don't want to mess with the original paint until it's truly necessary. This truck is never going to be perfect but I'm trying to be a good steward. It's a pretty sweet old rig.
I think the paint shop did a really good job matching the faded factory green.
Full disclosure: I did not apply the tire butter. Body shop detail guy thought that would be a good idea.
Next up: replace the headliner and tighten the bolts on the oil pan.
I think the paint shop did a really good job matching the faded factory green.
Full disclosure: I did not apply the tire butter. Body shop detail guy thought that would be a good idea.
Next up: replace the headliner and tighten the bolts on the oil pan.
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Bad ass
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Installed CCOT three-point seatbelts this weekend.
Pretty major improvement related to safety.
Bunged up the female threads on one of the posts which resulted in learning how to pull the seat (and not necessary - the center console).
Impact wrench made easy work of it once the seat was out of the truck. Took ten minutes to remove the seat and then reinstall it.
The seatbelts function well but the retractor is forced to operate at an angle that makes it uncooperative. You have to futz with it for it to reel out the belt. Ideally it would be at this angle but that bolt head is in the way.
So it has to be at an angle which causes the belt to bind.
Here's another look at that bolt head.
I was thinking maybe the seatbelts are driver and passenger side specific but they appear to be identical and the bolt is centered in the mechanism.
I may switch them from side to side when I have some time. Could be the fitment varies from vehicle to vehicle - that bolt in the seat back may have varied in location? I don't know. Not a big deal but would be nice if they worked correctly with less effort.
I had hoped to retain the factory post with the Toyota logo on it but it's not compatible with the seatbelt. Won't click tight.
Pretty major improvement related to safety.
Bunged up the female threads on one of the posts which resulted in learning how to pull the seat (and not necessary - the center console).
Impact wrench made easy work of it once the seat was out of the truck. Took ten minutes to remove the seat and then reinstall it.
The seatbelts function well but the retractor is forced to operate at an angle that makes it uncooperative. You have to futz with it for it to reel out the belt. Ideally it would be at this angle but that bolt head is in the way.
So it has to be at an angle which causes the belt to bind.
Here's another look at that bolt head.
I was thinking maybe the seatbelts are driver and passenger side specific but they appear to be identical and the bolt is centered in the mechanism.
I may switch them from side to side when I have some time. Could be the fitment varies from vehicle to vehicle - that bolt in the seat back may have varied in location? I don't know. Not a big deal but would be nice if they worked correctly with less effort.
I had hoped to retain the factory post with the Toyota logo on it but it's not compatible with the seatbelt. Won't click tight.
Kaderabek
GOLD Star
Next up - the headliner, which did not survive the work on the top. I have a replacement headliner from Cruiser Outfitters. Looks to be very high quality.
