Builds Fly By Night (2 Viewers)

[brisveganbj42]

Something leaving me scratching my head. The caliper’s hard line is riveted to the backing plate, while the 55’s is bolted. Why Toyota would do this, I don’t know. Much easier to unbolt the hardline 90degree block and move the caliper out of the way and have it only attached to the flex line than to have to bend the hardline around to get out of the way of the rotor and hub if they need removed. Not sure if they came to their senses later on, but I’d like to remedy that.

my 1984 BJ42 had the brake union block riveted to the backing plate like that, i'd always ending up pinching a line and disco'ing the hard line.. only way to do swap out a CV (apart from taking the wiper seals and steering arms off and removing the entire outer knuckle as one).. the bolts are a lot smarter way to go.

Another interesting fact is 62 diffs were trussed from the factory.. its a good win if you can get on it

 

[RUSH55]

Years ago with my 40, I had a problem with river rocks getting stuck between the shield and rotor. It didn't ruin the rotor because the screeching noise made you stop right away. Back then we just cut the shield off. I've heard one reason to keep them is for cooling, but you couldn't prove it by me. I believe mine are laying around from the 60 axle if you need them for anything.

We have that issue with a lot of trucks up at the plant that spend time on muddy roads. Usually we can get those stuck rocks out with a pressure washer, sometimes not and we have to pull the rotor. It is a harsh annoying sound. Can’t recall having that happen on the 55, though I wouldn’t deny the possibility, and now that I’ve mentioned it, it’ll probably happen.

Yeah I’ve been reading up, more caster on the 62 axle than a 60=win, my backing plates are so rusty I just ordered the spacers from Kurt when I got the knuckle kit and new rotors. I’m not planning to run that block at all, just go axle to caliper? I can’t recal now but someone had a source for some great flex lines.

Jmack did a nice job on the shock mount tab combined with a gusset (hi Bob) if you go look for it in his thread.

If you come across the source for those lines, let me know. Kurt looks to stock every line, bearing, and gasket needed for OEM replacement, but I don’t recall seeing any stainless flex lines, or extended front knuckle lines. May need to go look again.

Target Carrier is always a sweet reference guide. Was thinking of the axle jig Jim made to straighten his ends out after doing the C&T. I have a piece of H-beam that would be perfect, just need to machine up those end pieces that slide into the ends.
That’s if I end up doing a C&T which I’m not completely sure about yet...

my 1984 BJ42 had the brake union block riveted to the backing plate like that, i'd always ending up pinching a line and disco'ing the hard line.. only way to do swap out a CV (apart from taking the wiper seals and steering arms off and removing the entire outer knuckle as one).. the bolts are a lot smarter way to go.

Another interesting fact is 62 diffs were trussed from the factory.. its a good win if you can get on it

Found out about that truss(?) after I already bought the 60 parts rig. Not sure how much real world benefit the truss adds
Maybe down the line if I find one for a deal. That and a full-floater rear.

 

[J Mack]

Target Carrier is always a sweet reference guide. Was thinking of the axle jig Jim made to straighten his ends out after doing the C&T. I have a piece of H-beam that would be perfect, just need to machine up those end pieces that slide into the ends.
That’s if I end up doing a C&T which I’m not completely sure about yet...

Jig, H-beam and 450 AMP mig welder sitting here in the shop when you're ready to cut and turn, I believe it would be easier for you to bring your housing here that ship all my stuff to your place.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I believe it would be easier for you to bring your housing here that ship all my stuff to your place.

Besides that, I hear Sinatra sings there every night.

 

[RUSH55]

Jig, H-beam and 450 AMP mig welder sitting here in the shop when you're ready to cut and turn, I believe it would be easier for you to bring your housing here that ship all my stuff to your place.

I appreciate that invitation and may possibly take you up on it!

 

[J Mack]

I appreciate that invitation and may possibly take you up on it!

Then you can mess around with the Invision 450 and figure out the Profile Pulse. Apparently it “Provides TIG appearance with MIG simplicity and productivity”. Achieve “stacked dimes” without gun manipulation.

I’m too lazy to read the instructions and never messed with it.

 

[RUSH55]

That sounds fun!
What else might I need welded

 

[bobm]

Besides that, I hear Sinatra sings there every night.

And Barry White .

 

[bobm]

That sounds fun!
What else might I need welded

Load da truck up and move to Beverly

 

[RUSH55]

@bobm , he’ll probably weld my bottom lip to a whiskey glass

 

[bobm]

Take da Bus

 

[RUSH55]

So for the, “more to come” from last week...

Got the new rear c-channels bent up by the same guy who bent the plates for my spring hangers. Big thanks to Kevin B. !

So, they still need(ed) some massaging to fit (usually does). The old ones measured out at 3-11/16” on the outside. With 3/16” plate, 3-1/4” inside gets around 3-5/8” outside. Kevin nailed the bends, but I should have made it about a 1/16” shorter. Oh well. A little bit of machine work via the grinder gets the win.

 

[RUSH55]

Drilled holes for the passenger tub mount that was removed. Also decided I should tie the shackle hanger to the inner c-channel similar to how the OEM rivets pass through the shackle hangers and inner c-channel. I put some 8mm bolts in for now, not sure how sufficient that will be. Would like to go bigger, but if I do, I’ll have to add more material around the base since I didn’t account for that when I built them.

 

[PabloCruise]

Was the picture with the rivets the 60 housing and the picture with the bolts the 55?

I think on the 40/55 housing people would just bypass the junction altogether? Just a vague memory...

 

[RUSH55]

So in the top pic (60 housing) you can see the rivets on the right and below the 90degree block.
Bottom pic (55 housing) bolts in those same places.

So if you’re changing wheel bearings, or a brake rotor, or a Birfield, or an inner axle, or whatever, you’d either remove the hard line and leak fluid everywhere and have to go through the trouble of bleeding your system, or you gotta bend the hardline around so your caliper can clear everything (which I suppose could happen a few times without issue).
I’m first going to see if the 55 plates will cross over. If not, I’ll weld some nuts to the inside.

 

[RUSH55]

A few things this morning. Removed the 60 upper u-bolt seats.
Set the 55 axle and 60 axle flat on the spring perches and used my level gauge to get a closer comparison to what the pinion/driveshaft angles are to see if I need to change the angle on the 60 axle.
So the 55 reads out at around 1-1/2 - 2 degrees. The 60 reads out at 5 - 6.
So I drove around for years with the stock 55 front on a 5-1/2” - 6” lift. It always seemed a little flat, and that a rotation of the pinion angle would be nice. I’m shooting for similar lift (maybe only an inch more?).

Broke out the lower height perches I made close to a year ago. They’re a shade under being 3/4” lower than the OEM perches. The passenger side perch will require a bit of work to retain that lowered profile.

Also mocked the upper u-bolt flip plates to see how that’s gonna work out. The passenger side inner upright (foot?) will need a little work or replaced with a new piece. Just a small piece of 1/4” flat stock with three stitch welds attaching it to the main plate.

 

[RUSH55]

Kinda thinking a 10 degree pinion angle would be pretty ideal. Any thoughts out there?

 

[NikP]

Kinda thinking a 10 degree pinion angle would be pretty ideal. Any thoughts out there?

I went with 12 but then I ended up not able to run a CV joint because of clearance. Looking back, I wished I hadn't cut and turned. I think I'd be closer to making a single Universal joint drive shaft work.

BTW, I have a new Tom Woods drive shaft with 60 series flange at the axle and 3-speed transfer.

 

[RUSH55]

Awwe man, I’m using a 38mm idler shaft split case or I totally would!

 

[RUSH55]

Dad’s in town for the week and the 10 day forecast shows all suns, so decided on a photo op.