Builds Fly By Night (3 Viewers)

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*a-hem* sorry... sorry about that. Guys.
Sorry...

Okay...
Dropped.

Dropped the welder off today and then went over to my Mom’s where the parts 60 is and got busy. Got the engine/trans/x-case removed. Got the front axle out.
Had to use the ol’, block of firewood and a bottle jack to press the spring hanger bolt out far enough to get a bite on it with an old crow-bar and pry those rusted b*tches out the rest of the way.
Manhandled the axle with springs and tires into the trailer and headed to the house.

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Here’s a fantastic video of them playing Xanadu, with Alex playing the double-neck Gibson and Geddy playing the double-neck Rickenbacher, playing synthesizer with his feet, and singing at the same time. Timelessly awesome drumming and lyrics by Neil.
You just don’t get musicianship like that anymore.


 
So, a few observations of the FJ60 front axle in its comparison to my later date FJ55 axle. I don’t have an exhaustive or extensive knowledge of the differences, so if you already know this stuff then just bear with my ignance.

The steering arms are noticeably beefier. TRE’s bigger. Good and good. There’s a few manufacturers out there building the hi-steer arms if needed, but not necessarily necessary.

Something leaving me scratching my head. The caliper’s hard line is riveted to the backing plate, while the 55’s is bolted. Why Toyota would do this, I don’t know. Much easier to unbolt the hardline 90degree block and move the caliper out of the way and have it only attached to the flex line than to have to bend the hardline around to get out of the way of the rotor and hub if they need removed. Not sure if they came to their senses later on, but I’d like to remedy that.
Also, no need for those u-bolt hanger mounts on top, they’re getting cut to make room for the flip kits that came off the 55 axles.
Will also have to move the axle side flex line securing tabs to make room for lower, axle mounted shock mounts, instead of u-bolt plate mounted lower mounts.
The pinion angle appears to be a few degrees above horizontal when the spring perches are flat, which also makes the caster look to be about 3 - 4 degrees.

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I’d rather keep it, but am thinking of drilling out the rivets and welding some nuts on the back side so that block can be removable. That is, if there isn’t some sort of factory alternative. Not sure if the 55 plates would interchange. Would go that route if possible.
 
Years ago with my 40, I had a problem with river rocks getting stuck between the shield and rotor. It didn't ruin the rotor because the screeching noise made you stop right away. Back then we just cut the shield off. I've heard one reason to keep them is for cooling, but you couldn't prove it by me. I believe mine are laying around from the 60 axle if you need them for anything.
 
Yeah I’ve been reading up, more caster on the 62 axle than a 60=win, my backing plates are so rusty I just ordered the spacers from Kurt when I got the knuckle kit and new rotors. I’m not planning to run that block at all, just go axle to caliper? I can’t recal now but someone had a source for some great flex lines.

Jmack did a nice job on the shock mount tab combined with a gusset (hi Bob) if you go look for it in his thread.
 

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