Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (2 Viewers)

[White Stripe]

Got all the grime cleaned off the 203/splitcase, and put in a missing spacer for the splitcase Hi-low linkage (other wise it drops about an 1/8” into the case and you can’t shift it). I lost/discarded whatever the original washer/spacer was supposed to go there but a Porsche headbolt washer works perfectly.

I know I said I was going to put 4:1 gears in but I got thinking again, if I go up in tire size (to 37’s) then the hi-range reduction from the t-case gears won’t be enough and I’ll have to do diff gears anyways. And I own a pair of locked 4:88:1 third members which would be right for 37’s... although I bought the diffs for something else they might find their way here. Need to decide.

I also had a couple of the big bolts holding the splitcase to the adapter come loose a few times while I was driving this setup so I
put a bunch of red threadlocker and torqued em down right again.
If it is still an issue I’ll helicoil the threads.

Then I bolted that whole deal to the Nv4500. And then put the whole thing into the truck. Nice to have the whole thing just bolt up, shifters, driveshafts, etc.


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Man dude, you should be able to get way more flex out of that suspension with a little tweaking.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Is it in yet?

 

[vipergrhd]

Nice job Matt, nice job indeed. I hope you are installing a good quality clutch that thing looks like a pain just to get in.

 

[cruisermatt]

Nice job Matt, nice job indeed. I hope you are installing a good quality clutch that thing looks like a pain just to get in.

$40 disc from Napa if I remember correctly... it’s a 10.5” for a Chevy 3/4-ton.

 

[cruisermatt]

Is it in yet?

 

[vipergrhd]

$40 disc from Napa if I remember correctly... it’s a 10.5” for a Chevy 3/4-ton.

Did you check if there is a Centerforce Dual Friction for it?
Is that NV4500 have the 6.** granny low or the 5.**?
I'm sure you have secured that 5th gear, correct?

 

[cruisermatt]

Did you check if there is a Centerforce Dual Friction for it?
Is that NV4500 have the 6.** granny low or the 5.**?
I'm sure you have secured that 5th gear, correct?

Nope on the dual friction. Don’t need it though, this one works fine.

5.61 first gear.

And yes, the 5th gear is very secured.

 

[vipergrhd]

Awesome !! ^^^

 

[cruisermatt]

My friends and I hooked everything up yesterday evening and cranked it over... but got nothing besides a fried fusible link. It got dark and I work early mornings so I called it quits. Don’t think I can hear the fuel pump running so I’m guessing it’s the fusible link for the EFI. It’s the link with the single connector separate from the three in the big connector... any ideas? EDIT, it is the fusible link for the EFI.

 

[cruisermatt]

To be more clear, when I hooked up the battery terminal for the first time the EFI fusible link smoked immediately. I cranked the motor anyways to verify starter/body electrical etc.( it obviously didn't start), and went to replace the whole fusible link assembly with one of my NOS spares. Same thing happened (fried upon contact of battery terminal). So obviously I have a short somewhere, and my reasoning leads me to believe it would almost certainly be on the engine harness as I haven't touched anything else since the last time the truck ran.

I'm away from the truck until Saturday however I'm almost positive there aren't any kinks/cut wires, however most of the connectors are broken. I really hope I'm not pulling the harness and building it from scratch with all new connectors and removing all the smog wires... I have plans to do that but it wasn't until after I pull this motor for the swap! (this 3FE will go in another project later)

 

[cruisermatt]

Obviously I’m going to check for pinched/cut/melted wires but I have a bad feeling I’m going to be pulling the harness and checking the pin-out on every connector.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Hook up your alternator power wire yet?

Trying to think of what can be exposed and cause a dead short like that. All connectors have their contacts isolated with plastic. Alternator power connection is the only one I can think of that's connected through the harness, directly to the fusible links.

EFI fuse, no clue there.

 

[cruisermatt]

Hook up your alternator power wire yet?

Trying to think of what can be exposed and cause a dead short like that. All connectors have their contacts isolated with plastic. Alternator power connection is the only one I can think of that's connected through the harness, directly to the fusible links.

EFI fuse, no clue there.

Actually, the alternator power wire might be it. I have considered that.. it’s a new generic alternator and I might have hooked the power wire to the wrong bolt, which would be hooking it up to chassis ground.

That’s the only wired connection that is changed this go-around.
The only thing is that I don’t think that is on the EFI harness, so
why would it only blow the EFI fusible link? Just thinking aloud. I’ll look into this evening.

 

[cruisermatt]

After some ACTUAL INVESTIGATION using the FSM schematics, I was actually blowing the fusible link for the alternator, not the EFI (I just assumed EFI as it was dark and I was tired and I wasn’t smelling fuel).

So I went out to the truck and (after pulling the big connector) I found what I was actually supposed to hook the power wire to. I had it attached the alternator case bolt circled in red, where it’s actually supposed to be hooked up to the big pole circled in blue. The OEM alternators are much more obvious about this... I blame the harness adapter and putting this together on only several hours of sleep for three or four days in a row.
Either way, assembled properly, hooked the battery up with my last spare fusible link and nothing smoked! Amazing what happens when it’s actually put together correctly.

I also found that this want hooked this up and I’m now getting a strong fuel smell (good thing), I’m pretty sure this is the ground for the injectors.

 

[cruisermatt]

So that leads me to ignition as the last thing preventing it from firebug up; I’m 99.999% sure I have the distributor installed correctly (I did the quick check for 180 out as well), and I’ve had these motors run with the distributor off a tooth.. very poorly but running/stumbling.
Not even get a stumble here.
I do however know that this distributor is full of rust and corrosion from frolicking through Florida swamps so I wouldn’t be surprised if it just needs to be replaced.
When I have someone else around I’ll have them crank it while I pull plug wires to see if they’re arcing.

 

[orion]

Glad you're making progress...hope the rest goes easy.

- Brian

 

[GLTHFJ60]

"I blame the harness adapter..." It's not the harnesses fault Glad it was an easy find.

Check the EFI fuse for functionality? Strong fuel smell from where, dripping down the exhaust manifold or out the exhaust while cranking?

Trying to remember, I think crank position is read via the distributor on a 3FE, so dizzy full of rust would cause problems for sure. Swap it out.

 

[cruisermatt]

"I blame the harness adapter..." It's not the harnesses fault Glad it was an easy find.

Check the EFI fuse for functionality? Strong fuel smell from where, dripping down the exhaust manifold or out the exhaust while cranking?

Trying to remember, I think crank position is read via the distributor on a 3FE, so dizzy full of rust would cause problems for sure. Swap it out.

Fuel smell is out exhaust pipe, that plus the fact Im fairly confident I couldn’t smell fuel before I hooked that ground up as well gives me good enough indication of fuel supply.

The fluid on the exhaust manifolds is oil from my funnel fail

Yes, ECU gets crank trigger from distributor.

 

[cruisermatt]

"I blame the harness adapter..." It's not the harnesses fault Glad it was an easy find.

I blame the harness adapter and several beers on blocking the view of the actual power post

 

[cruisermatt]

I’m really digging the look of my my new bumper and fresh (used) grille/headlight surrounds. I need a winch line. And I need to figure out how to wire my M8000 my existing solenoid.

I also installed the LED interior lights and under-hood lights from Odd-Iron Off-road. Nice products. Now I want wheel-well and under-frame LEDs for night wheeling and wrenching