Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up (2 Viewers)

[stevebradford]

 

[cruisermatt]

I’ve used the Grey Right Stuff almost exclusively for awhile now. Diff/housing, all the cork gaskets on the motor, works great for that. The Ultra Grey does as well.
I used the black Right stuff at my old work on a bunch of axle housings and it worked for me as well.
On that transmission it’s just Permatex Hightemp Red

They’re probably all the same honestly.

One important thing to note is when using it on motors is to be careful not to use too much, on this last motor I had a bit of oil starvation on my mains from a chunk of RTV getting caught in one of the journals.

 

[cruisermatt]

Did a little project yesterday.
Start with a couple feet of 2”x5”x1/4”.

Drill and mill some holes and slots into it

Bend some tube

And, bumper.

 

[cruisermatt]

Still need to make mounts and cut the rectangle tube so it tapers towards the ends so it looks less farmtruck hokey. Waiting on plasma cutter to be done at repair shop.
I wanted to copy the Rockware bumper for Land Rover Defenders, I made mine look a little bit meaner though by angleing the headlight surrounds, I may change it for the more classic look though.
Either way just something quick and simple, I was going to go crazy with CAD and waterjet and tube but couldn’t really decide exactly what I wanted.
Either way it’s bolt-on (for me) and only $150 of steel so if I can always make a new one if I want.

This is what I’m copying and how the sides of the main tube need to get cut.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nice work Matt! Post up a shot of the Warn finished w/ the line installed if you don’t mind. I’d like to see how it all turned out.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Now that's a phat bumper. Mad max styles.

 

[cruisermatt]

Nice work Matt! Post up a shot of the Warn finished w/ the line installed if you don’t mind. I’d like to see how it all turned out.

Thanks.
Here it is with paint and the winch bolted down, I actually don’t have a line for it, I tossed my steel line with the old winch to force myself to buy a synthetic line.

I also need to put the lower valence panel(s) back on, I need to trim them little more.

 

[cruisedeisel]

That bumper needs a spring over.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Curious if you don’t mind saying... how much did you pay for the used Warn? Friend of mine and I have been talking about the the 8000 new/on sale or used. CT isn’t cheap.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Curious if you don’t mind saying... how much did you pay for the used Warn? Friend of mine and I have been talking about the the 8000 new/on sale or used. CT isn’t cheap.

 

[cruisermatt]

I don’t know if I ever posted about this but when I put this drivetrain combo in the truck last summer I forgot to put the clutch fork pivot pin back in the bellhousing. The issue is the adapter plate on the back of the bellhousing isn’t reliefed for the bolt head of the pivot pin because it isn’t designed for my bellhousing.
What I did at the time instead of pulling everything back out, I made a stud and just JB welded it in place. It didn’t hold but the combination of the clutch slave, input shaft and pressure plate kept it functioning. Pretty Hack.

So, with this knowledge now I milled a pocket in the adapter plate.

 

[cruisermatt]

Curious if you don’t mind saying... how much did you pay for the used Warn? Friend of mine and I have been talking about the the 8000 new/on sale or used. CT isn’t cheap.

I think it was $250 on EBay plus shipping? That said I still a haven’t tested it to see if it works...
probably just to buy a new one with the steel line. I think they are just over $600. Pretty good deal actually.

 

[DFXR]

Nice Bridgeport. "The machine that can make itself"

 

[cruisermatt]

Got all the grime cleaned off the 203/splitcase, and put in a missing spacer for the splitcase Hi-low linkage (other wise it drops about an 1/8” into the case and you can’t shift it). I lost/discarded whatever the original washer/spacer was supposed to go there but a Porsche headbolt washer works perfectly.

I know I said I was going to put 4:1 gears in but I got thinking again, if I go up in tire size (to 37’s) then the hi-range reduction from the t-case gears won’t be enough and I’ll have to do diff gears anyways. And I own a pair of locked 4:88:1 third members which would be right for 37’s... although I bought the diffs for something else they might find their way here. Need to decide.

I also had a couple of the big bolts holding the splitcase to the adapter come loose a few times while I was driving this setup so I
put a bunch of red threadlocker and torqued em down right again.
If it is still an issue I’ll helicoil the threads.

Then I bolted that whole deal to the Nv4500. And then put the whole thing into the truck. Nice to have the whole thing just bolt up, shifters, driveshafts, etc.

 

[cruisermatt]

I also made a little bit of progress on my bumper today. Broke off the angry eyebrows to redo them, but mostly spent time getting the “wings” shaped.
Kinda weird but I’ve come to enjoy grinding steel like this, I learned how to get it perfectly smooth, no bumps, dips, or ridges at all using sanding disks and the orbital sander. This is a must for anything getting powdercoated, any imperfections show.

 

[cruisermatt]

Before:

And after, much better now.

 

[crashmonk]

Jesus that's a long drive train! DS must be getting short.

 

[cruisermatt]

Jesus that's a long drive train! DS must be getting short.

Yeah its hefty alright... long enough I nearly tipped my engine hoist trying to put it in attached to the motor last summer ( engine hoist fully extended).
Rear driveshaft is only about 6-7" shorter then an FJ62 automatic rear driveshaft so it's not too bad. I've run it up to about 100mph with no vibrations.

 

[crashmonk]

It's nice to have some wheel base. I've been working on a 5.3 swap for a 72 jeep CJ5, that DS will come in@12 inches. I wouldn't run that to 100

 

[cruisermatt]

Third times a charm hopefully?