Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (4 Viewers)

[Zjohnsonua]

Windshield install complete!

The "pros" threw in the towel after 4 failed install attempts, so @bush and I gave it a go. I grabbed a few pointers from youtube, $20 at harbor freight bought all the needed tools, and then we exercised a little give-a-damn.

I'm not going to go into detail about how we did it as youtube glass guys do a great job of explaining, but I'll add a few things that I felt were under-stressed:

• Use a quality gasket. I heard this from several installers, and I see what they mean now. Toyota was much more affordable than Precision (the often suggested higher-end aftermarket vendor), so it was a no brainer. The "pros" were using some other vendor and the gasket was pretty stiff exactly where it needed to be more flexible.
• Use a stout, slippery rope, and soak it in soapy water before loading it into the gasket. We used some paracord and it did great. Having it soaped up would have made pulling the corners easier. For those that are concerned with high end details, this trick would also avoid some rope burn that I see on the surface of the interior lip.
• Careful with the last leg at the top. The glass has to bind up once you're down to a couple feet of gasket remaining. This makes the lip have to ride on less of the pinch weld when it flops over than it does anywhere else in the install. Just make sure the gasket stays over the pinch for the whole run. You can work it down to final position once it's fully flopped over.
• Apply only enough pressure to keep the gasket from rolling. We got a little heavy handed towards the end and cracked at a corner. This is one of those things that is 100% learned OTJ. Pay attention as you go and that part in bold will become apparent.

All up, I say this was on the low side of a job. The potential to wreck a $150-200 part with a crack bumped it up from a job.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Quick tip, use the larger expansion strip that @kevinmrowland found. It produces a better seal against the glass, and against the body, than the factory expansion strip. It goes in easy with some silicone spray as well.

wagongear.com » Window Welt

wagongear.com

Nice work!!

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Thanks!

Based on his site, it looks like Kevin got out of the welting game. I'll try a few glass shops before rolling the dice on amazon's WLS466 listings.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

AC is in! Getting between 35 and 40* drop. So nice to have.

Wrapped up the pre-cat exhaust with some header tape. Fuel system seems happier, and my feet are definitely less roasty.

She's pretty functional now. 5000mi of highway and trail are gong to shake some things out that need attention or I'd like to change. We'll see.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Colorado trip is behind us. We shortened our trip loop a little, but 4k miles since the last update is a good haul. All in all the rig did great! Averaged 15mpg and had all the power we could ask for at all altitudes.

Only new stuff needing attention is:

• Trans tunnel heat - needs shielding
• Oil pressure sender - super wonky readout
• Rear springs could stand a bit more carrying capacity

Long term improvements that would be nice to add:

• Rear sway bar - Watching @Broski's rig work Poughkeepsie as stable as it did sold me. That rig is a solid datum to compare against.
• Gonna aim to get cruise control to work. We'll see where that goes.

The fact that the truck has done as well as it has speaks volumes to the level of systems integration that Toyota executes. Having said that, I feel that leaving the few nagging active DTCs in place is doing a dis-service to the build. It's got active codes for absent downstream O2s, EVAP pressure sensors, and wheel speed data...we'll see what it takes to nip these in the bud.

 

[Broski]

Now that I found it, I well be reading this thread form the beginning.

 

[Broski]

Great Work Zack, Love that it's V8 and all Toyota.
Nice documentation and a good read.
When you get to the rear sway bar you well have a easier go of it with the 80 axle and the narrower 60 frame. It was tight between the frame and tire on my Rig and I had to get creative on the upper joint mount on the link.

 

[HemiAlex]

I ran Poughkeepsie with my sway bar off and Hurricane with it on.

The 62 rear bar has weak frame attachment points and they’re only m6 or m8 bolts. Those bolts can shear. I heard more popping with the bar on but it was so much more controllable and fun to drive.

I would try to use an 80 bar and beef up the attachment points. Or maybe use a spline style bar with custom links.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Gonna rip off Broski and do the latter. He mounted a straight, splined bar through the frame. Super clean. The factory bars leave so much on the table.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

These:

Antirock Sway Bars

www.rockjock4x4.com

That's what I would like to do some day as well.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

That's what he's running. I'd recommend giving that install a study. His suspension function is superb.

 

[HemiAlex]

That's what he's running. I'd recommend giving that install a study. His suspension function is superb.

that’s the way.

I’m not one for modifying factory geometry; but you’re past that and it’s glorious.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Measured the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge just for grins before replacing the sender and numbers are OK. 60psi cold idle, 20psi op temp idle. Min spec is 4 psi at op temp idle (shocked it was that low).

Here's what hot idle correlates to on the 60 gage:

Annoying. Registers, but just barely. Gonna have to fix that. Time will tell how stable it is.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Clearly an idiot gauge. Excuse for Redhut gauges?

 

[NookShneer]

that’s the way.

I’m not one for modifying factory geometry; but you’re past that and it’s glorious.

Doesn’t sound like it is the direction to consider but a front 80 sway bar supposedly works on the 80 rear axle on a 60 frame.

 

[cruisermatt]

Somethings wrong with your gauge or sender. Should sit right in the middle of the gauge with those numbers.
I’d throw a new gauge at it while they’re available

 

[Zjohnsonua]

Somethings wrong with your gauge or sender. Should sit right in the middle of the gauge with those numbers.
I’d throw a new gauge at it while they’re available

Tried to get one ordered today. Our button pusher says it's NLA.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You attached the oem 60 oil pressure to the peg on top of the sender, not the tab, right?

 

[Godwin]

Tried to get one ordered today. Our button pusher says it's NLA.

FJ62 gauge will work if still available.

 

[Zjohnsonua]

You attached the oem 60 oil pressure to the peg on top of the sender, not the tab, right?

Used a 100 sender. It has a single pin connector.