I'm not sure if the 100 sender has the same range that the 60 sender does. That might be an easy test, swap out for the 60 sender.
Builds Camo's build thread - 2F to 2UZ (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Zjohnsonua
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Zjohnsonua
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- #202
Something about the 100 sender definitely isn't playing as well. I'll snag a 60 sender and connector.
Zjohnsonua
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- #203
With a new OE 60 sender:
Thats the same 20psi hot idle. Looks like I'm tracking down a gauge.
Thats the same 20psi hot idle. Looks like I'm tracking down a gauge.
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62 gauge is available and fits right in.
Zjohnsonua
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- #205
Made a couple calls and found a few spares locally. Cruiserheads for the win
IIRC the OEM gauge will burn out if it's connected to the tab on the OEM sender instead of the stud on the top.
Zjohnsonua
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- #207
Correct, that'll send the gage direct to ground and blow the circuit. The 100's gage only has one termination available, and I avoided that little tab on the 60 unit. I'm thinking something has been up with camo's gage for a while. The old 2F is now in my gray 60, and the displayed oil pressure is higher there. We're pulling a spare from the shop's parts pile to see what the deal is.
Zjohnsonua
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- #208
83246-90A05 GAUGE, OIL PRESSURE RECEIVER is what I found for the 62. Add that one to the list of NLA parts.
Zjohnsonua
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- #209
So it's been a while since the suspension got redone and everything seems to have settled in. So much so that I've woken something up that needs to get put back to bed...
I cross maybe a half mile of elevated roadway with a sweeping curve at highway speed in my commute, and each time I hit the section abutments the truck does the normal little expected bump, but it also does this disconcerting little wiggle. It's not dangerous mind you, but it's not right either. Combine that with a softer than expected rear suspension (living with a few hundred extra pounds of gear in the back would drive some changes), and I'm pondering how best to tame the thing.
@GLTHFJ60, @boots4, or @cruisermatt, did any of you fellas experience something like what I'm describing at some point in your builds?
I cross maybe a half mile of elevated roadway with a sweeping curve at highway speed in my commute, and each time I hit the section abutments the truck does the normal little expected bump, but it also does this disconcerting little wiggle. It's not dangerous mind you, but it's not right either. Combine that with a softer than expected rear suspension (living with a few hundred extra pounds of gear in the back would drive some changes), and I'm pondering how best to tame the thing.
@GLTHFJ60, @boots4, or @cruisermatt, did any of you fellas experience something like what I'm describing at some point in your builds?
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Shackle length? Spring Bushing condition? Rubber or poly?
Zjohnsonua
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- #211
5" pin to pin. New oe rubber bushings through the frame, surface checked but stable rubber spring bushings.
What kind of wobble was it? Feel it in the steering wheel, front end, rear end, etc?
Was it a side to side body roll type thing or a axle moving around under the truck kind of thing?
Was it a side to side body roll type thing or a axle moving around under the truck kind of thing?
Zjohnsonua
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- #213
The nose hits, feels just on the right side of stiff, and recovers quickly. The tail hits and seems soft, rolls to the outside a bit and then recovers. Do that 5 or 6 times in a curve at 80 and it'll get your attention.
Its enough that a sway bar could definitely do some help. But it should be more balanced first. The bar feels like a band aid at this point.
Its enough that a sway bar could definitely do some help. But it should be more balanced first. The bar feels like a band aid at this point.
Sounds like you need stiffer springs in the rear. That or stiffer shocks.
My truck doesn't do that anymore, but it did sometimes before I moved to 63s out back.
My truck doesn't do that anymore, but it did sometimes before I moved to 63s out back.
Zjohnsonua
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- #215
I wouldn't doubt the springs having been long in the tooth. Salvage yards aren't a guarantee after all. Wanted to get an opinion or two before dropping coin on some fresh ones.
Which springs do you have in there right now? I've got the 4 leaf plus overload 63s.
Zjohnsonua
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- #217
Same here. I had 5+1 but pulled the middle leaf.
Hmm. I didn't remove a leaf, but I just double checked, I have the 4+1 stock pack out of a 2500 truck, and I have the bilstein 5125 shocks out back, not very stiff.
Perhaps put the middle leaf back in?
Perhaps put the middle leaf back in?
Zjohnsonua
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- #219
That's the plan for tomorrow. I'm expecting that to be too much spring, but only one way to find out.
FYI: If your gauge still goes up at all - it's electrically fine. I just had this same issue with my 62 oil pressure gauge. Basically I had connected it to the wrong terminal on the sending unit, which pegged the gauge out. When you do that, it mechanically over-travels the gauge and bends the mechanism. I took the whole gauge housing out of the cluster, removed the two corresponding nuts on the back and removed the oil pressure gauge unit. I then took a pair of needle nose pliers and carefully bent the back of the bi-metallic strip (where the upper and lower portions join) so the needle rested perfectly at "L" when un-powered. I put it all back together. and the gauge goes up to mid-point with the engine running now.
