Builds 79 Aussie BJ55 build (5 Viewers)

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Gonna need more vise-grips

once its formed right its not so much of a struggle.. its just the drivers side isn't as close as it needs to be so needs more persuasion for a better fit.. i'll get there :)
 
Old stuff removed
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Ready for new stuff..
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Roof repairs 11
Late one tonight.. its now 1.30am. But new roof bits are glued on and spot welded..
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Just the rear section of the roof to go..
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Really hard to see everything from a photo but the spot welds look hot, might try a couple short zaps instead of one continuous hot weld, a wet rag to hit the area after also wouldn’t hurt to reduce the HAZ.



Looking good, thank you for taking the time at 1:30 to snap a few photos for us!
 
Really hard to see everything from a photo but the spot welds look hot, might try a couple short zaps instead of one continuous hot weld, a wet rag to hit the area after also wouldn’t hurt to reduce the HAZ.



Looking good, thank you for taking the time at 1:30 to snap a few photos for us!

Yeh not that happy with the welds and figured it was due to contamination even though i clamped next to the spot weld, cleaned it out using a cloth and the end of a drill bit. The was a 2-3 sec weld too.

Wondering if it would be worth also running a few little beads along the seal, again aiming to reduce chances of warping by moving around and using a damp cloth.
 
I don't think you need that much weld.
I would rely more on the glue.
A couple spots on the ends is all I've ever used.
 
I don't think you need that much weld.
I would rely more on the glue.
A couple spots on the ends is all I've ever used.

Fair enough, checking it this morning and its looking pretty strong. Im gonna get the rear edge done now before it cures completely.
 
Roof repairs 12
Rear done
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So the sides on the rear section are welded to the new stuff on the sides. Once it cures and the roof has more rigidity itll come off and cleaned up both sides. The underside has spots of rust under the sound deadener where the primer has flaked or its rubber through. The rear corners will get fixed up and welded out too before welding out on the gutters
 
This may give you a few ideas that could be useful.
On this hood I used a thin strip of steel to double the seam at the glue joint and welded the ends (see arrow). Not shown in this picture is a thicker strip of steel on the bottom side wrapped in tape to prevent it from being glued to the hood but help hold everything flat.

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After the glue has set a quick sanding and the seam is ready for a skim coat of filler and primer.
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This hood has a hard life on the front of my buggy and it's still holding strong.
 
This may give you a few ideas that could be useful.
On this hood I used a thin strip of steel to double the seam at the glue joint and welded the ends (see arrow). Not shown in this picture is a thicker strip of steel on the bottom side wrapped in tape to prevent it from being glued to the hood but help hold everything flat.

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After the glue has set a quick sanding and the seam is ready for a skim coat of filler and primer.
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This hood has a hard life on the front of my buggy and it's still holding strong.

Would you suggest I do something similar with a backing strip? It's not something I've considered figuring the current setup would be adequate..
 
Would you suggest I do something similar with a backing strip? It's not something I've considered figuring the current setup would be adequate..
I don’t know that there is a “right” or “wrong” way to do it but the advantage of gluing for me is the speed of making the joint and minimal work required to get back to paint, making the lap joint on the long straight sections accomplishes both for me. Adding the flat strip is fast and easy but you could also “flange” one side and do the same thing. Google flange tool or homemade flange tool to see what I’m talking about if you’re not familiar with flanging the panel.

My only concern with all the spot welds is you might actually be compromising the glue and ultimately end up with a weaker joint.
 
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Roof repairs 13
Cleaned up under the roof removing all the old glue and a bit of surface rust. Prepped with rust converter, primer and sealer. Also primed where the supports go..
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Its hard to capture the lip, but its not much.
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Thinking seam sealer will help deal with any holes left by the tek screw.

Just painting the rear corners that I welded out tonight.. hoping to get an opportunity to weld the roof on for good tomorrow night..
 
Roof repairs 14
The Mrs skipped her class tonight so i got to have a go at glueing the roof on.. this time with metal
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Its by no means perfect but with shares in a body filler company it should.come up ok.
 
Would fiberglass fine strand kitty hair hold up better to cracking than filler? I have used it on roofs before with great results.
 
Would fiberglass fine strand kitty hair hold up better to cracking than filler? I have used it on roofs before with great results.
Be interested as well. Its not sonething ive had experience with
 
A body man once told me it resists rusting and bonds better too, I have been using a thin layer of fine strand first then bondo over my welds for years, especially doors, floors and rockers - seems to work well. Only challenges is its a lot harder than bondo, so you need to use a flap disc or grinder to flatten well or it will poke through on final sanding.
 
Tidying up some booger welds. Its easier when youve got a bit more experience welding and theres no chassis in the way..
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Booger welds
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Less booger welds
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