Builds 79 Aussie BJ55 build

[RUSH55]

What are going to be the reasons that it would pop out of fourth on deceleration?
If there’s axial play, is it strictly due to the input shaft, or is there something else going on? All of the shims are there? Does it need more shims somewhere? How about all the shift forks, shafts, and detents? Are they all working properly? Once a gear is shifted and they mesh, that’s a lot of distance it would have to travel to un-mesh. If it’s not something obvious that’s causing movement of what, 2,3,4 cm’s, maybe it’s a combination of two or more lesser issues creating that movement?
Wonder if it’s not completely meshing to begin with and maybe it’s not actually making a complete engagement, but making just enough to make you think so. That would possibly be an issue of the shifted gear not moving enough or the lower gear that it’s meshing with moving around too much?

 

[brisveganbj42]

> What are going to be the reasons that it would pop out of fourth on deceleration?

Excessive end float seems to be the general consensus.

> If there’s axial play, is it strictly due to the input shaft, or is there something else going on? All of the shims are there? Does it need more shims somewhere?

FSM says the input shaft bearing retainer seal needs to be set at a specific depth. I just threw it in but dont understand how a rubber seal can stop the axial play. Theres a snap ring that comes in different thicknesses and thats the only "shim" mentioned. It's assumed the bearing retainer depth is the same between all H15x gearboxes.

> How about all the shift forks, shafts, and detents? Are they all working properly? Once a gear is shifted and they mesh, that’s a lot of distance it would have to travel to un-mesh. If it’s not something obvious that’s causing movement of what, 2,3,4 cm’s, maybe it’s a combination of two or more lesser issues creating that movement?

With the gearbox apart, yes the selector hubs all mesh normally and completely. its like under deceleration the drag created by engine braking slowing things down seperate the input and mainshaft enough the selector in 4th pops out.

> Wonder if it’s not completely meshing to begin with and maybe it’s not actually making a complete engagement, but making just enough to make you think so. That would possibly be an issue of the shifted gear not moving enough or the lower gear that it’s meshing with moving around too much?

thats a possibility too i guess.

I managed to get onto an old-timer who's quoted as a "Magician" with diffs, clutches and gearboxes.. and his first thoughts are end float being an issue. I took him for a drive in the pig and he saw it do things first hand. What's even better is he's available and willing to tear into the box and have a look at it all. I'll get the box out this weekend and to him so he can have a stab at it throughout the week...

 

[brisveganbj42]

Hi... remember me...

I've been trying to get some miles down to get confidence in the new setup.... I reckon i got about 1000kms under my belt before this happened..

Luckily it was just me and the wife away on a dirty weekend without the kids and we're fortunate to be able to have very patchy mobile reception at that location as it was a fair way off the main drag..

*note* the input shaft is cut and shut. the rebuilder did this to try and remove unknowns with 4th popping out (it didnt fix that but it did create a nice, cheap(?) fuse)

heat fractures in the flywheel too.

Anyway.. discovered that my flywheel needs a 5mm step to suit the clutch and it didn't have it. Also going to get my flywheel and clutch balanced before it goes in. Next I'm waiting on a new adapter thats slightly thicker to accomodate for any crank end float that may be contributing to issues but as this happened on the first gearbox (H55F) without the adapter its unlikely to be the root cause, and possibly the clutch+flywheel causing the majority of this pain.

 

[scrapdaddy]

*note* the input shaft is cut and shut. the rebuilder did this to try and remove unknowns with 4th popping out (it didnt fix that but it did create a nice, cheap(?) fuse

So, the input was cut and rewelded right there? Yeah, not so cheap. I bet that made you both jump when it snapped.

 

[brisveganbj42]

So, the input was cut and rewelded right there? Yeah, not so cheap. I bet that made you both jump when it snapped.

not sure if thats the exact spot it was welded but close.. you can see some finish inconsistences on the other photo. Suprisingly it didnt make any noise.. just lost drive.. it gave hints in the morning and we were on our way back to our accomodation when it went.

If that had been a genuine input shaft I can only guess it would of stripped teeth in the box like the h55f input shafts did. I've got a spare 1HZ input i'm throwing in this time.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Man this is reminding me of my racecar, every weekend it would eat either the clutch or a trans, gets tiring after a while.

Hope your getting to the end of the journey.

 

[brisveganbj42]

Man this is reminding me of my racecar, every weekend it would eat either the clutch or a trans, gets tiring after a while.

Hope your getting to the end of the journey.

Definitely character building and I'm sure i'm getting closer to the end. From what I've read apparently I can't drive a diesel. Letting it labour in low RPM and high gear is whats killing these things.. maybe its just been too long since i've driven one properly i've forgotten how?

 

[brisveganbj42]

another photo of a pig i own being towed.... cept this is coming home with me for the pricely sum of $500.

Parts pig parked up next to the 24ft Viscount van we've got to reno then take up to the block.

 

[PabloCruise]

Hi... remember me...

I've been trying to get some miles down to get confidence in the new setup.... I reckon i got about 1000kms under my belt before this happened..

Luckily it was just me and the wife away on a dirty weekend without the kids and we're fortunate to be able to have very patchy mobile reception at that location as it was a fair way off the main drag..

*note* the input shaft is cut and shut. the rebuilder did this to try and remove unknowns with 4th popping out (it didnt fix that but it did create a nice, cheap(?) fuse)

heat fractures in the flywheel too.

Anyway.. discovered that my flywheel needs a 5mm step to suit the clutch and it didn't have it. Also going to get my flywheel and clutch balanced before it goes in. Next I'm waiting on a new adapter thats slightly thicker to accomodate for any crank end float that may be contributing to issues but as this happened on the first gearbox (H55F) without the adapter its unlikely to be the root cause, and possibly the clutch+flywheel causing the majority of this pain.

Ouch!!!

 

[PabloCruise]

not sure if thats the exact spot it was welded but close.. you can see some finish inconsistences on the other photo. Suprisingly it didnt make any noise.. just lost drive.. it gave hints in the morning and we were on our way back to our accomodation when it went.

If that had been a genuine input shaft I can only guess it would of stripped teeth in the box like the h55f input shafts did. I've got a spare 1HZ input i'm throwing in this time.

What hints did it give you?

 

[PabloCruise]

Definitely character building and I'm sure i'm getting closer to the end. From what I've read apparently I can't drive a diesel. Letting it labour in low RPM and high gear is whats killing these things.. maybe its just been too long since i've driven one properly i've forgotten how?

Is it better to gear down/higher RPM?
Less torque on the shaft?

 

[myusername]

Anyway.. discovered that my flywheel needs a 5mm step to suit the clutch and it didn't have it

I'd have to check, there's nothing in the body and chassis manual under clutch section about the step, and nothing in the B series engine manuals I have at hand either

I don't think B series had a noticeable step, and if there is it's possibly so they only had to machine a smaller area of the casting and it's not as substantial as ~5mm. I can check tomorrow if you need, not 100% sure where mine ended up when moved into the new shed

Was this a typo? Sure it wasn't 0.5mm?

 

[brisveganbj42]

So been back on the road for a while now, got over 1000kms under my belt since breaking the input shaft. Things are better so hoping they stay like that. Daily duties continue along with more work. I've got a front shaft in and bearings for my locked centers. Also got brand new 4.1 R&P's to go on the locked centers (which is why i need pinion bearings). Still got to hook up my 4low lever and get that sorted but getting closer. Aiming to have this sorted prior to an overnighter with the 4wd club exploring the area around our block (but not on our block)..

 

[brisveganbj42]

I'd have to check, there's nothing in the body and chassis manual under clutch section about the step, and nothing in the B series engine manuals I have at hand either

I don't think B series had a noticeable step, and if there is it's possibly so they only had to machine a smaller area of the casting and it's not as substantial as ~5mm. I can check tomorrow if you need, not 100% sure where mine ended up when moved into the new shed

Was this a typo? Sure it wasn't 0.5mm?

Yeh it was likely 0.5mm

 

[brisveganbj42]

hey folks. hope y'all are well. been a while between posts but have just been quietly putting in the miles building confidence with it.

i had some brand new terrain tamer 4.11 gears added to my air locked centers dialed in and setup over a month ago and now they are finally installed. im still fiddling with my vdj79 hi/low shifter linkage so it works as expected.. without the rubber boot its good so need to lengthen where the rod attaches to the shifter so it doesnt have such a long throw.

ive got a messy powersteering leak, oil weep and now what might be a weeping brake master cylinder... not sure why but i guess things just need some love.

my battery was dropping under load, especially when winching so got a fresh one. i also got an arb twin high output air compressor, with remote feed lines to install. i want to mount it inside the rear qtr panel so will bust out the cad for that today. im hoping with that installed wheeling gets a bit easier and i can do more.

I also had a stab at fiddling with my inj pump boost compensator but couldnt get the bolts off so will just leave it as is atm.

 

[scrapdaddy]

i also got an arb twin high output air compressor,

Let us know how you like that compressor. She's a high dollar one, but seems to be well worth it when filling up tires.

 

[brisveganbj42]

Got most of the air compressor done but had to come in before I could finish the switch wiring and hook it up to the 2nd battery.. I'd always wanted to have my air compressor mounted under the body somewhere out of the way. If it wasnt this specific aircompressor it was the one I already have. This compressor has a remote feed kit and should be safe to run outside of the vehicle. I doubt I'll find myself running it while its under water and the connectors are mostly waterproof. Theres a 12v brushless fan on the other side of the unit to cool it down which is just a PC fan so if it goes should be easy enough to replace.

I've gone with a chassis mount out of 6mm plate (its all I had) just near the fuel tank filler spot.. its got 1 x m14, 2 x m8's securing the bracket via the inside of the chassis rail. it slides over and sits on top of the chassis rail so shouldn't go anywhere. There are 8 x m6's securing the air compressor to the bracket..

theres not much space in there so its hard to get a good photo.. it's mounted on a slight angle so any muck that does find its way up there should hopefully slide out, and it doesn't touch anything in that location. I'm hoping the radiant heat doesnt impact any fuel lines which I'll monitor closely the first fiew times to see what the go is.. if its bad I'll sleeve the fuel lines with something thick to protect them.

I got the remote air feed kit which sources air from inside the vehicle

Theres 1m length of braided line from the compressor output to my rear swingout for hooking up the hose

I'm a bit conflicted about where to put the switch. I'd prefer it to be on the dash but figure the hose and air chuck will be in the back next to the 2nd battery. This means I'll likely put it next to the fridge as I'll be there anyway getting those bits.. I've already got wires run from the lift pump to the dash (which isnt being used) so could use that easily enough if I wanted to use a dash switch. Alternatively I wonder if I could find a water proof rocker switch to mount next to the outlet?

I wouldn't normally splash out on ARB gear unless I have to.. their proprietary hardware and silly prices really rub me the wrong way... The reason why I bought this is because I get a heap of benefits from work, one pool of benefits being "health and wellbeing" and meant I was able to expense the compressor and a rear air locker as "outdoor equipment". The benefit was use it or loose it and coming up to the end of the year I had still a bit left to spend so gave this a go... This gear does help me get outdoors and 4wding so I'm happy with that, especially since it didnt cost me much.

I need to set my staun tyre deflaters all to 20psi and considering using locktite to keep them there.. in doing that this should get a workout inflating the spare between setting up the stauns.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, I'm worried about the muck and water messing with it. I don't know much about the ARB models, but like you said, it came at a great price. That would be cool to be able to mount one under the body and it lives. Nice job on the mounting, too!

 

[brisveganbj42]

install complete. asnd stauns set to 20psi

Opted for a dash switch vs the a switch in the rear. Got the air hose and air chuck stashed under the drivers seat so its all at my fingertips.

You can hardly hear the compressor when the engine is running which i guess is to be expected..

I did a few tests and inflated a 35" tyre from 20psi to 38psi in about 90 seconds.

 

[brisveganbj42]

Man, I'm worried about the muck and water messing with it. I don't know much about the ARB models, but like you said, it came at a great price. That would be cool to be able to mount one under the body and it lives. Nice job on the mounting, too!

Just googled to double check and saw this from ARB. fingers crossed thats legit and I dont run into issues but as always... time will tell:

The only requirement when mounting a compressor in a location that may be submerged is that the air intake is relocated to a permanently dry location. Other than this, the compressor can be wherever you desire; mounted under seats, under bonnets, on the frame of your car.