Builds Yeller Gold

[J Mack]

Sitting at a job site waiting for a sub and don't have time to type a proper answer to your question but I have answered this question in my build thread and I believe you'll end up with longer shackles if you want to get the most out of your new longer springs.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Sitting at a job site waiting for a sub and don't have time to type a proper answer to your question but I have answered this question in my build thread and I believe you'll end up with longer shackles if you want to get the most out of your new longer springs.

Yes thanks again for your earlier efforts to get me (and others) sorted away on the shackles.

Being outboard I’m limited to shackles under the frame (at least I’m sticking to that for simplicity) so I’m going to proceed by getting the DOM as tight to the frame as possible, that should get me the best options on shackles , even if I don’t acheive 100% of usable spring travel.

 

[J Mack]

) so I’m going to proceed by getting the DOM as tight to the frame as possible,

Yeah I guess that was my point and would have made a better reply to the question.
I'm betting you'll end up with longer shackles than you have and keeping the top mount close to the frame keeps that option open to you.
Take the pack apart and cycle just the main leaf after you have everything tacked.

 

[PabloCruise]

I use center punch marks when I do layout and I've been known to use a center drill to mark a critical mark and spot weld it after I'm done.

I like this! Measure twice, cut (or weld) once...

 

[Ol Yeller]

Today’s food for thought

 

[Ol Yeller]

After a false start some progress today...trying hard to keep momentum!

First go was a fail, shackle far to close to the plate, if the bushing compressed at all it would be steel on steel.

Next try was much better, left the wall thickness of the bushing as clearance...

Clamped to frame, not welding anything until I run the DOM through a lathe to true it up.

There will be another gusset fab’d to go above the plate and a scab plate as well...burning through the length of 4” plate fast now.

 

[RUSH55]

That 3/4 wrap looks sweet man!

 

[Ol Yeller]

Well I did manage to get over to the lathe and true up the DOM but haven’t tacked anything together yet.

Been reading a ton of random web pages on spring theory and a week later all I know for sure is that I don’t know enough.

I guess given the measurements I have the best bet is to tack the front hangers on with the shackles inverted (springs at full droop) and see where I get too with weight. With the 3.25” shackle I think the spring is long enough to lay it flat out by the time it gets to the bump stop.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Welded and tacked the hangers together, planning to tack onto the frame after dinner unless someone sees a problem?

As @J Mack mentioned just eyeballing with a tape measure it looks like I’ll need a shackle closer to 4.5” to flatten the springs right out, but will carry on with what I have for now.

 

[RUSH55]

Wait! Wait wait wait!!!

Okay, never mind, looks good. Go ahead.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Had to do a fair bit of fiddle fawk to get this stuff square, my frame horns are not square in either plane.

Springs hung, a small step and been far too long coming, thanks all for the tips and support here in the sty.

Next time out will be place axle housing and get some weight on it to see if rough angles are close.

 

[RUSH55]

Looks pretty close. Get the axle hung and put ‘er on the ground and let’s see where she sits. If it’s not good there, it’ll be a half inch further forward (my prediction).

 

[J Mack]

Next time out will be place axle housing and get some weight on it to see if rough angles are close

Pull those spring packs apart and test your angles with just the main leaf, with just a little weight and a ratchet strap you should be able to compress them down to the bump stop.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Pull those spring packs apart and test your angles with just the main leaf, with just a little weight and a ratchet strap you should be able to compress them down to the bump stop.

Yup, first I want to see what the loaded angle looks like. I’m pretty sure these shackles are too short but want to keep progress moving.

 

[J Mack]

Yup, first I want to see what the loaded angle looks like.

“Loaded angle” will be in the ball park by default if you get extended and compressed correct.

 

[Ol Yeller]

“Loaded angle” will be in the ball park by default if you get extended and compressed correct.

Copy that, but right now I don’t want wait on/build new shackles before carrying on, so if static check is acceptable I can at least move the program along.

I appreciate all the support on here guys, helps a lot!

 

[J Mack]

Copy that, but right now I don’t want wait on/build new shackles before carrying on, so if static check is acceptable I can at least move the program along.

This is exactly what got me into trouble the first time.

The advice I was given was shoot for about X angle at ride height and I would be good, unfortunately my shackles inverted at both compression and extension and the pig road like crap. You are here now and it will not get any easier than right now.

Could be the angle of the photo but to me your springs like they are fully extended your shackle mounts would need to move rearward to get your shackle bolts vertical. If fully compressed your shackle bolts go to something just under 45° then you’re golden weld them up your ride height angle will be money.

 

[Ol Yeller]

This is exactly what got me into trouble the first time.

The advice I was given was shoot for about X angle at ride height and I would be good, unfortunately my shackles inverted at both compression and extension and the pig road like crap. You are here now and it will not get any easier than right now.

Could be the angle of the photo but to me your springs like they are fully extended your shackle mounts would need to move rearward to get your shackle bolts vertical. If fully compressed your shackle bolts go to something just under 45° then you’re golden weld them up your ride height angle will be money.

Ahh I see, ok I will check what I get compressed then.

I’m thinking I could build new longer side plates with the existing hardware from OME kit.

 

[RUSH55]

The other thing to take into consideration too is where your axle and wheel placement centers in the fender at rest, if you’re possibly gonna start cutting hangers loose and moving things around. As everything starts to settle, your axle will move forward.

 

[J Mack]

if you’re possibly gonna start cutting hangers loose and moving things around. As everything starts to settle, your axle will move forward.

I agree 100% with what Rush said here.

Like I mentioned before I built my front suspension based on information I was given and got tied to something that didn’t work and was way too far along with my build before I realized just how bad is was. The rear spring hangers for my front springs are in the stock location as a result of the compromises that needed to be made after the fact, my front spring axle locating pins needed to be moved forward 1” on the new main leaves I had made to center the 35” tire between the rub points of the front fender.

I had somewhere around 6.5” to 7” of total front suspension travel with the OME springs and shackles before I ran into trouble and it didn’t ride as good as it does now. After I made the changes I have 12” plus of available travel with virtually the same springs that is limited to 10” with my bump stops and night and day difference on ride quality.



I hope this information helps you and isn’t coming across as me being an armchair internet prick.

I wished someone would have taken the time to type a reply when I was posting pictures of my setup and explain my potential issues, @Lil’John tried with pictures of his spring slides but I didn’t understand what he was trying to tell me and didn’t ask the correct questions before I got too far going the wrong direction.