What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (15 Viewers)

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I painted over some mud. removed some more stuff. tested the fitment of the MK3 supra radiator (backup plan if stock radiator doesnt work out). general degeneracy as per the usual
 
Ripped out the smog stuff and installing TBI
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Ripped out the smog stuff and installing TBIView attachment 3936466View attachment 3936467
The more I fight with with the vacuum lines and smog equipment, the more I want to do this on the ‘78.

I was leaning sniper on my ‘67 originally, but have been so satisfied with the way it’s running with the cityracer carb I don’t want to mess with the magic.

How’s it going?
 
So my
The more I fight with with the vacuum lines and smog equipment, the more I want to do this on the ‘78.

I was leaning sniper on my ‘67 originally, but have been so satisfied with the way it’s running with the cityracer carb I don’t want to mess with the magic.

How’s it going?
So my 40 ran really well here at almost sea level. No issues at all. I am planning on going to SAS9 and knew I would need to mess with the carburetor for that elevation. Truth be told did not want o play that game. Always knew I wanted to desmog her. I came across a good deal on a Howell TBI kit BNIB. Currently I am out of town but before I left I was able to pull all the smog equipment off, install Jim C smog bracket, pull and blank off fuel pump, install new fuel pump and filter, and install most of the vac lines that need to stay. Ran in to an issue getting the plug out of the top of the head to install the new temp sensor. So when I return need to get that booger out then install the TS, throttle body, and throttle linkage and wiring harness.
 
For the bolts holding the side engine panel on…I saw for the 60 series the torque was 35 INCH lbs…which is about 3 Ft lbs. That started to push the gasket out so I back off and just did ‘good and tight’ so the gasket didn’t push out. Is that ok??

Also, does anyone know how the oil filler tube detaches from the block? I have a small leak there. I just replaced the side gasket and figured may as well fix that. Does that use a gasket at the bottom or just sealant?

Edit for question 2: Looks like pressure fit…sealant should help on the outside.

Thread 'oil fill tube'
oil fill tube - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-fill-tube.938930/

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For the bolts holding the side engine panel on…I saw for the 60 series the torque was 35 INCH lbs…which is about 3 Ft lbs. That started to push the gasket out so I back off and just did ‘good and tight’ so the gasket didn’t push out. Is that ok??

Also, does anyone know how the oil filler tube detaches from the block? I have a small leak there. I just replaced the side gasket and figured may as well fix that. Does that use a gasket at the bottom or just sealant?

Edit for question 2: Looks like pressure fit…sealant should help on the outside.

Thread 'oil fill tube'
oil fill tube - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-fill-tube.938930/

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Side cover is definitely a feel thing. I tried torquing to the FSM spec and it felt like too much - the gasket was squishing out. Very low torque, cork gasket dry with no sealant. Mine's been leak free for a couple years.
 
Side cover is definitely a feel thing. I tried torquing to the FSM spec and it felt like too much - the gasket was squishing out. Very low torque, cork gasket dry with no sealant. Mine's been leak free for a couple years.
That is what I thought as well on the torque…felt like way too much. I put a very small bead of FIPG on both sides for good measure.

Now to figure out the oil fill tube. Looks like my version is pressure fitted. Probably just clean that area up as much as possible and put a very thing layer of high temp epoxy around where it connects to eliminate leaking unless someone has a better recommendation.
 
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So... replaced a bad NEW fuel filter AND am going to try this setup instead of pressure regulator.
Weber 38 on stock 74 1.5F.
Second filter with return line.

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If you have a pressure gauge it might be good to get a reading temporarily just to know where you're at.
I use the same carb with a pressure regulator that has an add-on gauge.
 
This is a great upgrade… did it a few months back…so, how many zip ties did you have left over? I would have thought, being so conscious of space and waste, there would be less wire to hide or modify and 30 less zip ties.

Here’s my reasoning. I had read that Toyota changed the “spelling” of Toyoda just to save 1 pen stroke in the in the written format…
 
This is a great upgrade… did it a few months back…so, how many zip ties did you have left over? I would have thought, being so conscious of space and waste, there would be less wire to hide or modify and 30 less zip ties.

Here’s my reasoning. I had read that Toyota changed the “spelling” of Toyoda just to save 1 pen stroke in the in the written format…
Ha! Yeah, here what's left over. I think I bought just bought a packet of zip ties at Lowe's for the price of this whole kit!

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