Tested the bike rack clearance.
D
D
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (43 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
AndersN
SILVER Star
Took backroads from Atlanta to Anniston, Alabama to buy Jeep parts....
I’m down around there - I don’t try to pull that hard down that low but I idle around 700, but it’ll keep plugging away far lower than that.
As for the clutch grinding - yeah I’m pretty sure it’s the clutch and I’m in the same boat as you are - it doesn’t make a lot of sense. I’m wondering if I’m getting rocks/mud into the bellhousing (but it’s pretty sealed off) so I’m wondering if I have a bolt backed out that’s making contact under twist. Makes me nervous.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I finished modifying my accelerator pedal and hand throttle cable for my '71 FJ40 build. Hand throttle cable assembly and bracket from @FJ40GURU and my original pedal. A while back I had cut off the lower end of an FJ62 accelerator pedal for another MUD member and I saved the top. I cut off the section with the square opening, then cut it and bent it to fit around the FJ40 pedal. Then I welded it up. I used a square white nylon screw grommet for the cable guide at the pedal.
I had to bend the throttle cable bracket up and out of the way of the '81 Toyota pickup fuse panel I had installed in the stock location. That required a short extension of the sheathed part of the hand throttle cable. I picked up a couple of steel tension pins at the local hardware store this morning - a larger diameter pin that would slip over the crimped metal end of the cable sheath and a smaller diameter pin that would slip inside the larger one. I opened up the slits in the pins with a Dremel cutoff wheel so they would slip over the cable. I slipped them over the cable and welded the smaller pin into the larger pin, then placed a small weld bead to fasten the larger pin to the crimped metal piece on the cable sheath. I finished it off with some heat shrink tubing. The smaller pin fits under the clamping part of the bracket. I dug through my parts bins and found a 5mm machine screw and nut to clamp it down.
This afternoon the mailman delivered the custom carburetor throttle cable kit from @Downey. Tomorrow I'll finish assembling the carburetor then install it with the '73 bellcrank assembly from @65swb45. I need to fabricate the rod linkage from the bellcrank to the carburetor linkage using an FJ60 rod lengthened by a steel spacer I picked up this morning at the hardware store. So another small welding job.
Once everything is hooked up and adjusted it'll be time to fire up the '76 2F that's under the hood.
I had to bend the throttle cable bracket up and out of the way of the '81 Toyota pickup fuse panel I had installed in the stock location. That required a short extension of the sheathed part of the hand throttle cable. I picked up a couple of steel tension pins at the local hardware store this morning - a larger diameter pin that would slip over the crimped metal end of the cable sheath and a smaller diameter pin that would slip inside the larger one. I opened up the slits in the pins with a Dremel cutoff wheel so they would slip over the cable. I slipped them over the cable and welded the smaller pin into the larger pin, then placed a small weld bead to fasten the larger pin to the crimped metal piece on the cable sheath. I finished it off with some heat shrink tubing. The smaller pin fits under the clamping part of the bracket. I dug through my parts bins and found a 5mm machine screw and nut to clamp it down.
This afternoon the mailman delivered the custom carburetor throttle cable kit from @Downey. Tomorrow I'll finish assembling the carburetor then install it with the '73 bellcrank assembly from @65swb45. I need to fabricate the rod linkage from the bellcrank to the carburetor linkage using an FJ60 rod lengthened by a steel spacer I picked up this morning at the hardware store. So another small welding job.
Once everything is hooked up and adjusted it'll be time to fire up the '76 2F that's under the hood.
what is the rack?
Finally got paint on the tub... Went with Cadet Blue. Huge milestone after tons of rust repair and body work.
This was my first time painting a car... the first two coats went on great with almost no orange peel... but I got some orange peel in coats 3 and 4 for some reason... I didn't change my gun settings, so I'm not sure what happened. It's a fine-textured orange peel, so it should wet sand out just fine.
Still have to paint all of the other panels, so still a long road ahead. But it feels good nonetheless.
This was my first time painting a car... the first two coats went on great with almost no orange peel... but I got some orange peel in coats 3 and 4 for some reason... I didn't change my gun settings, so I'm not sure what happened. It's a fine-textured orange peel, so it should wet sand out just fine.
Still have to paint all of the other panels, so still a long road ahead. But it feels good nonetheless.
jim land
SILVER Star
KingAir Driver
SILVER Star
First round of rust converter laid down on patina blue. I’ll probably get the spray cans for the under carriage when I get back to it. Happy with the results so far!
I use the earlier three finger clutch and heavier flywheel behind my 2f for the same reason...
Gaz..
Last edited:
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I plan on the same for my '71 FJ40 build. '76 2F, '84 H41 from an Australian HJ47, and '85 split transfer case with drum parking brake from a Belgian BJ45.
reddog90
SILVER Star
we don't need AC, we die like men (and some awesome women...)
I rebuilt the front end knuckles and did the bearings and seals, tie rods, 4 wheel disc brake conversion, suspension lift with new springs and shackles and shocks, tune up on the ramjet crate motor...now I need to get the headlight switch, wiper switch, and fresh pull cable, rebuild the heater/blower-clean the ducts...and some body work down the road...man...I got some stuff to do!
Hacked together dealie I came up with using a motorcycle carrier hitch rack deal as a starting point.
D
Just about done with this side. Started from
scratch essentially and moved the wheel well back. TJ fender flares are traced out.
scratch essentially and moved the wheel well back. TJ fender flares are traced out.
thecrazygreek
A.K.A. TheCraftyGreek
Got the plumbing for the heater installed, also ran the vacuum lines to the transfer case.
Drove it back out of the garage and in again!!
Brakes seem to be okay, may need a bit more bleeding.
Drove it back out of the garage and in again!!
Brakes seem to be okay, may need a bit more bleeding.
First off, let's get it out of the way - yes, I'm a geek.
I've had this truck for about eight years now, and the dash has always kinda bugged me. It's no restoration queen, but I hated these holes in the dash:
So after some searching, I found some appropriately shaped knobs for my first idea for these blank spaces:
In the interim, I scoured the internet for the needed pieces - a spring-loaded momentary pull switch and an extra garage door opener remote I could hack up:
So now, I have a 'stealth' garage door opener in place of the throttle knob (that didn't come with the truck and I have no need for):
I've had this truck for about eight years now, and the dash has always kinda bugged me. It's no restoration queen, but I hated these holes in the dash:
So after some searching, I found some appropriately shaped knobs for my first idea for these blank spaces:
In the interim, I scoured the internet for the needed pieces - a spring-loaded momentary pull switch and an extra garage door opener remote I could hack up:
So now, I have a 'stealth' garage door opener in place of the throttle knob (that didn't come with the truck and I have no need for):
Similar threads
