Pierps

Well, since you went there first... Try to be sure this new friend has a bit of mechanical knowledge. That can be pretty handy. ;) Seriously though, you do need to find a local to you knowledge source. When you are starting way down on the...

IMO, when I bought my rig, it had no obvious rust holes. Just some bubbling paint here and there. Meaning, it was in better shape than this rig. Then I stripped the bedliner on the floors and realized a good portion of the floors needed...

Weird! I bought their seat foam and covers for my jump seats for my '76 (9/75) and they fit great. I used Icon reproduction seat frames, and my rig didn't come with jump seats. So I didn't have a comparison point. Maybe my foam was thicker...

It looks pretty sturdy, and its probably better too tight than too loose - you don't want that flapping around at 60mph and exposing you to the elements.

I was worried that you'd get this close to justice, but ultimately not get it. I wonder if it would be better to just know nothing than to be in this situation. But here's some unsolicited advice from a total stranger: don't let this degenerate...

For anyone that has a Sniper, you can use one of the "switched ground" input leads as a nice kill switch. In the mapping, program that input to trigger an RPM limiter set to something abnormally low (50RPM), and then you can just use a very...

I see that front of your rocker is properly aligned to the cowl, and that the rocker is parallel to the top of your wheel arch. As such, the only solution I can think of is for you to lower the quarter panel. The curved part in your second to...

I've been using my Lincoln MIG 135 for 20 years. Never a hiccup. Mostly run flux core, as it's super easy and it does decent welds. I can TIG and stick as, well. I got an AHP 201x ac/dc TIG machine for aluminum and stainless. I think I should...

Hammering out your welds with a dolly as they cool is key. Compressed air to keep the panel cool. Skipping around and not laying down one big bead in one spot. This is the way.

I took a weekend course that a local fabricator puts on. That was all I needed in order to be effective at welding sheet metal. MIG welding really isn't that hard at all, especially if you'll be welding body panels only. I would seek more...

I don't have experience with any welders other than the one I have (Lincoln 110 volt unit... Weldpack something or other). But I think it's worth saving up for a decent quality Miller, Lincoln, Hobart, ESAB etc welder. If you don't plan to do...

May be some of the best advice yet!

Or the piviot point wobbles. It's easier to disassemble the top nut when it's still attached to the vehicle.

From memory there was something like this in the SOR catalogue back in the day. "Stand in front of the vehicle where you can see the center arrm and pivot. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth. If you see up and down movement on...

very helpful, thanks! Are you saying I should leave it on the frame just to save time if it doesn't need a rebuild? I'm planning to take it off to clean and paint it anyway. What are the signs that it needs a rebuild? Visible play (i.e., move...

Fron experience, I'd suggest pulling apart the center arm assembly before removing it from the frame. The bushings inside it will wear oval if it's not adjusted for too long. Once it's no longer round it's difficult (if not impossible) to remove...

There are numerous factors that affect handling. Each vehicle has it's own characteristics not to mention your own interpretations of how it is driving. My Corvette does not handle like my Ram truck and my FJ-40 doesn't handle like either of...

Don't forget "cheap" and "designed seventy years ago" But yes. The wheelbarrow has more in common with an FJ40 than a modern vehicle.

Without driving it, it’s hard to say. I’m currently running 33x10.50s. I’ve never driven it with new TREs… and also haven’t driven it since adding castor shims. When I got it it was toed out… brutal. Almost impossible to keep on the road. After...

Other than replacing the consumables (bushings, tie rod ends, etc.), all adjustments to the steering box, drag link, center arm and alignment in spec, all original factory parts, mine tracks boringly straight & true, no wandering at all.

Would check the steering box. “I've done my best to adjust as much free play out of the steering box as possible” I did same to my brother’s 40 years back and it would not return to center after I tightened it up. Consider loosening up a...

^^^ I have roughly the same setup, but I’m on 4” skyjackers. I rebuilt my leaking box a year ago and without the SST’s getting the box dialed in was a feel thing. I found that when torquing the outer lock nut it was actually turning the...

I had a similar issue after doing a steering system and front axle rebuild. My steering is all stock but it turns out I had tightened down my centerarm too much. In the process of it all I tightened and loosened my steering box several times...

Part of the issue with the factory steering is just the excessive number of parts for slop to develop. Wheel bearings. Pinion bearings in the spindles Tie rod ends Drag link ends Center arm More freaking tierods Steering box Then whatever is...

It sounds like you moved in the right direction with the caster shims. You may want to call around and see if any local shops would be willing to throw it on the alignment rack and get you some measurments on the caster for cheap, then you'll for...