I wish I was close enough to bring a sack of beer over and hear the stories...sounds like lots of material!
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- Thread starter J Mack
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- Thread starter
- #1,622
Better be a big sack cause this could take a while.
- Thread starter
- #1,624
Getting ready to make a few changes before this pig starts its beautification makeover.
I want to add some openings to a spare valance and I’m kicking around some ideas.
Continue the 55 grill openings down into the valance.
Or some FJ 40 style openings?
I want to add some openings to a spare valance and I’m kicking around some ideas.
Continue the 55 grill openings down into the valance.
Or some FJ 40 style openings?
- Thread starter
- #1,626
To make the power I make with a 4 cylinder engine I have run a turbo and an intercooler, the intercooler is in front of my radiator and when I’m making boost for extended periods of time the intercooler can see temps in the 300° to 400° range and heat soaks my entire cooling system.
I’m not a fan of cutting extra holes either and have been resisting this for a while now but I have an extra valance and believe the extra air flow would help if I can come up with a way to make them look like they belong. I’ll have both valances painted so I can always put the non-modified valance back on if there’s not an appreciable difference between the two.
Multiple holes...in the shape of dog footprints!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
I would run without to. Before cutting. 
# 1 would have the most air flow and my 2 cents look the best. I know how I would have to cut that out, but how are you doing it?
- Thread starter
- #1,632
@scottryana gave me a heads up this was a potential issue early on in my build, he mention @htownfire was having overheating issues driving over 55MPH in the hot Texas summers so I’ve had this in the back of my mind ever since. Unfortunately I was too far down the rabbit hole to turn around and had to keep moving forward with the 4BT, I read plenty of 4BT build threads to know not everyone has these airflow issues that leads me to believe that (A) they don’t push their rig as hard as I do (B) they have better airflow across their cooling system or (C) some combination of both, either way this pig is getting ready for new paint and if I want this new experimental valance painted I’ll need to do something quickly.
To give a better understanding of the issue I met Even in St George and we drove together to the camp ground for the pig party, we had to climb a fairly long steep grade just before we got to the camp grounds ambient air temperature was low to mid 90’s and we zipped up the grade going 55 to 65MPH and my coolant temp never got over 215°, a couple days later Even took us on an epic 145mile trail run and we had to hit that same grade on the way back to camp only difference was the ambient air temperature was high 90’s low 100’s and my coolant temps jumped quickly to 220° and I slowed down the 35MPH to keep my boost under 10LBS, if I tried to push the boost any higher the temps would head towards 230°. I can’t replicate this at home but always seems to happen when I’m out of town especially at the higher elevations. New grill and bigger fan is helping but I’m still missing the mark by a bit.
Picture one was my first idea but quickly became obvious that it was going to take a lot of work to build a fixture to mill the slots and then build a die to roll the edges and that got me looking at the FJ 40 grill and thinking that it would be a lot quicker to just pop two big holes and roll the edges but like you guys I’m not sure if I like them. At the end of the day I’d like to do something that gives the appearance of factory’ish holes or like others have mentioned just remove it completely when it’s hot outside. For reference this is the picture of the 40 grill or valance slots and I would roll the lip back to give it a factory appearance.
Plan “B” is to put the biga$$ mechanical fan on and stop Diking with it.
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To give a better understanding of the issue I met Even in St George and we drove together to the camp ground for the pig party, we had to climb a fairly long steep grade just before we got to the camp grounds ambient air temperature was low to mid 90’s and we zipped up the grade going 55 to 65MPH and my coolant temp never got over 215°, a couple days later Even took us on an epic 145mile trail run and we had to hit that same grade on the way back to camp only difference was the ambient air temperature was high 90’s low 100’s and my coolant temps jumped quickly to 220° and I slowed down the 35MPH to keep my boost under 10LBS, if I tried to push the boost any higher the temps would head towards 230°. I can’t replicate this at home but always seems to happen when I’m out of town especially at the higher elevations. New grill and bigger fan is helping but I’m still missing the mark by a bit.
Picture one was my first idea but quickly became obvious that it was going to take a lot of work to build a fixture to mill the slots and then build a die to roll the edges and that got me looking at the FJ 40 grill and thinking that it would be a lot quicker to just pop two big holes and roll the edges but like you guys I’m not sure if I like them. At the end of the day I’d like to do something that gives the appearance of factory’ish holes or like others have mentioned just remove it completely when it’s hot outside. For reference this is the picture of the 40 grill or valance slots and I would roll the lip back to give it a factory appearance.
Plan “B” is to put the biga$$ mechanical fan on and stop Diking with it.
.
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What about some sort of ram air ducts along outside of frame under valence. Could have other end of ducts aimed toward cooling system. Or use your right foot less .
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- Thread starter
- #1,634
We’re looking for realistic solutions here…Or use your right foot less
Right out of my mouth!
I need to go back and read this whole thread. But it looks like you have an electric pusher and I am guessing 2 electric pullers on the back side? I would probably just take the electric fans off the backside and make a good shroud and use a mechanical fan. I really like electric fans and the ability to turn them off and on, have them triggered by temp, etc. But when it comes to just massive air flow, it is very tough to beat a mechanical. Just a quick example some of the mechanical fans can draw 10hp, if it is 745.7W/hp, than you would need a fan that pulls 7457W @ say 14.4v that is 517A that is just not going to happen. Haha.
I still think you gain more air flow by giving it a better exit than a bigger entrance. My valence is cut and I have that cowl hood and both of my side vents letting air out. The valence does open more contact on your radiator and maybe that is enough. A late hood would be nice, like you said at the pig party.
Louvers...
I also added louvers, although not as big as those above. They do help mine out quite a bit.
Couple things from my road racing/Datsun experiences, everything sealed up front so air has to go through the rad, water wetter, last is something I rarely see...the splash pan under the rad support which in reality isn’t for splash but rather helps create a negative pressure area behind the rad. The newer trucks have the rubber strip hanging under the bumpers that everyone tears off the first time they back up in the snow/mud...those also help manage the pressure differential.
Of course most of these assume your moving fast enough to have sufficient airflow, if not then yeah...big arse fan time.
Of course most of these assume your moving fast enough to have sufficient airflow, if not then yeah...big arse fan time.
