Shop Build. Finally Broke Ground. (3 Viewers)

[PIP]

Hard to discern exactly what's going on in the print from my phone screen, but here's my take- center the lift to the center of the door when possible. If you have to offset the lift to one side angle the lift posts so a perpendicular line from the midpoint between the posts is centered in the door. Essentially you want to be able to center your vehicle in the door and effortlessly end up centered on the lift.

10' from lift posts to wall sounds a bit tight if you lift a crewcab longbed truck with winch on the front. A couple more feet would be good.

I've had to install a lift next to a wall a couple times and it is not ideal. A few feet between the lift post and wall is a good idea so you can walk past and roll toolcarts,Tires, etc around no matter what height the lift is at.

I've found its worthwhile to plumb 120v outlets and air connections on each post.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Agree with the previous two comments; center it on the door. A good rule of thumb is to give yourself 6' to the wall in front of the vehicle so it depends on the vehicle(s) and the type of lift (symmetric vs asymmetric).

 

[ZackR]

Random thought with all of that excavation in progress - any thought to a future geothermal heat pump for the house? If so you could lay out all of the lines and cap them off until the house is built.

 

[1911]

Centered on bay door seems best to me but if you have lots of distance from door to lift it's probably not as important. 12ft clearance from front posts on my asymmetric lift gives me plenty of working room.

Same here; centered in width of the bay door, and at least 12' from the back shop wall, maybe more like 14'

 

[OGBeno]

Spectacular... Now you need more projects!

 

[BadReligion]

Alright, the consensus seems to be to center the lift in the bay, which makes perfect sense for all of the reasons given. As for distance to the back wall, they definitely need to be moved back. The boiler and two planned 400 gal thermal storage tanks will take up 3-4' of space on the wall, so to get at least 12' of distance from the lift posts to the boiler/tanks, they need to go as far back as the support column, if not a bit further. That will also eliminate one mini footing, as I can probably use the footing around the support column for one of the posts, and then only need to add a mini footing to post closest to the stairs.

At this point, the top of the lift will be under the mezzanine, but there is still like 16' or so of clearance here. For power I'll probably just bring that from overhead, instead of in the slab. Same with compressed air line. Anymore, with battery powered tools, I don't fire up the compressor much at all, unless it's for the plasma cutter, or using a cut off wheel for an extended period of time. I may place the compressor on the wall before the stairwell, and still have room for a nice size rolling tool chest, which will allow me to centrally place tools between the two lifts.

 

[BadReligion]

Random thought with all of that excavation in progress - any thought to a future geothermal heat pump for the house? If so you could lay out all of the lines and cap them off until the house is built.

We did consider a geothermal heat pump for the main house. Very efficient way to heat and cool. I don't think we can run the lines near the septic, but we have about 1200yds of piled dirt that can be pushed around. It wouldn't take much to bury some lines with that.

 

[BadReligion]

View attachment 3507647

Spectacular... Now you need more projects!

Ha! That was the whole point of the shop. Regina won't let me buy or park any more cruisers at the house!

The second story apartment has your name on it if you ever are passing through!

 

[Dparo]

Initial gut feeling without doing calcs I'd probably run a 400A main to the shop with a 200A sub for the residence.

 

[BadReligion]

Sorry for all the photos. Every time I go down to the site there is new progress, which is pretty exciting. The crew is working fast and so far coordination between the subs has been pretty good. This is my first time doing an owner/builder so a lot of this is new to me. The GC consultant I am using has been very responsive and helpful too.

Compacted gravel is mostly in, a few days ahead of schedule. Plumber is scheduled early next week to scratch their lines so the excavation crew can trench the sewer lines. That little mini ex on site is pretty impressive, but so is the monster orange one that can pick up Landcruiser sized boulders. They even let me get in the big one and move some dirt/rocks. Mini ex and skid steer are both on the "shop equipment" shopping list. Either used Bobcat/Kubota or new Yanmar. I've been hearing a lot of good things about Yanmar lately.

 

[1911]

They even let me get in the big one and move some dirt/rocks. Mini ex and skid steer are both on the "shop equipment" shopping list. Either used Bobcat/Kubota or new Yanmar.

One of the things I've enjoyed about my build also. The dirt contractor let me use his (or the rented) Kubota track steers any time he wasn't there and using them. Got enough seat time to feel pretty comfortable using them. They're so handy for so many things - a second-hand one is definitely on my wish list for equipment after the house is done.

 

[BadReligion]

Not a whole lot of progress since last update, due to everyone (rightly so) taking time off for the holidays. Plumbing is in and passed inspection, and the electrician is coming out on Tuesday to lay some conduit under the slab for power runs. We settled on a 400A service for the shop, and will place a 150A subpanel on the second story apartment. A second metered panel (size TBD) will go on the future house. This is lot less complex and less expensive than a 600-800A main panel, but will add some cost/complexity back when we install future solar and a genset. Concrete blankets were deployed to keep the compacted base from freezing. Even though I'm a pretty avid skier and we have excellent skiing 15 minutes away, I am hoping the dry spell in weather continues for another 3-4 weeks. We've only had a few rounds of very light precipitation, just enough to keep the pad and base damp (which is perfect for compaction). This time last year, the site would have been buried under 3 feet of snow, that lingered until late April.

Once the electric conduit is placed on Tuesday, the concrete sub will be back for vapor barrier, then rigid foam insulation. The plumber should be able to start on Pex lines at the end of the week. I am about 90% settled on going with a pair of Rotary SPO12 lifts, in the tall, wide configuration. If I place the lift posts in line with some existing footings, it will be easy to extend the footings laterally by another 2-3', giving me like 5-6' of concrete depth at the post sites. I think for power, it will be easier to run that from above, using some MC, vs through and up the slab.

Grading/excavation sub got started on the rear retaining wall too. Nice to see they placed fabric and perforated pipes behind the walls, without me having to ask. Pretty much all rock came from on site, which saved a bit too. Crazy how much large rock costs, and not including transport fees.

One thing I did notice is that we do not have any water on the east side of the building, so I might have the plumber run a line under the slab for an outside hose bib.

 

[ZackR]

When you do the plumbing definitely add a hot water tap to the hose bib (probably when do build the house). Comes in handy for washing the dog in the winter, as well as cars, etc...

 

[cruzinfj1]

This is gonna be phenomenal when its done! I really like the stone retaining wall.

Saw it mentioned somewhere, and wish I would have, is a flush mount anchor or two to pull from. I thought about it, and just kinda brain farted it. Now Im kicking myself for not doing it. Would have come in handy a couple of times already pulling things into a bay that are dead.

 

[BadReligion]

Both excellent ideas! This is exactly why I made this thread. So I could figure these things out now, and not wishing I did them post construction...after concrete has been poured and walls buttoned up.

When you do the plumbing definitely add a hot water tap to the hose bib (probably when do build the house). Comes in handy for washing the dog in the winter, as well as cars, etc...

I have hooked up a hose to my hot water heater before for hosing things off in the driveway. Hot water at the hose bib would be so much easier!

This is gonna be phenomenal when its done! I really like the stone retaining wall.

Saw it mentioned somewhere, and wish I would have, is a flush mount anchor or two to pull from. I thought about it, and just kinda brain farted it. Now Im kicking myself for not doing it. Would have come in handy a couple of times already pulling things into a bay that are dead.

I almost drilled an anchor point into my current garage floor when installing new suspension on my 200. I needed to push down the LCA to slide in a coilover. Asking my wife to jump up and down on a pry bar while I slid the coil in worked, but she was less than impressed. Having a few anchor points would be very useful for that scenario. Same with dead vehicles. Currently I just push them in with the 80.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Both excellent ideas!



I have hooked up a hose to my hot water heater before for hosing things off in the driveway. Hot water at the hose bib would be so much easier!




I almost drilled an anchor point into my current garage floor when installing new suspension on my 200. I needed to push down the LCA to slide in a coilover. Asking my wife to jump up and down on a pry bar while I slid the coil in worked, but she was less than impressed. Having a few anchor points would be very useful for that scenario. Same with dead vehicles. Currently I just push them in with the 80.

and now is the time to do it before your pex is in and your floor is poured.... I just dont feel "lucky" enough to try and sink a couple of anchors now!!!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Nice progress. I hope the weather holds for you. FWIW you only need 4 1/4" for a Rotary SPO12 so I wouldn't worry too much about extending the footings. I assume you would pour at least a 6" slab regardless.

 

[BadReligion]

Nice progress. I hope the weather holds for you. FWIW you only need 4 1/4" for a Rotary SPO12 so I wouldn't worry too much about extending the footings. I assume you would pour at least a 6" slab regardless.

I did think it was interesting that Bendpaks 12k lift called for a 6.5" slab, but Rotary was ok with 4.5". Either way, I'll probably sink in some 12" bolts and epoxy them so I'll never have to worry about it in my lifetime.

 

[lelandEOD]

View attachment 3507647

Spectacular... Now you need more projects!

Remember, Onur, you have to use a quantifiable sliding-scale rubric combining Kris's projects along with mine.

I'm providing a lifetime supply of gummy bears and staking a 2 ft.² claim to the farthest corner.

 

[BadReligion]

Remember, Onur, you have to use a quantifiable sliding-scale rubric combining Kris's projects along with mine.

I'm providing a lifetime supply of gummy bears and staking a 2 ft.² claim to the farthest corner.

Help me drop a 1HD-FT in the 62 or 80 and you can claim the second lift.

Maybe we can fly Onur out for extended periods of time for project management and parts sourcing.

This is quickly escalating into more than just a hobby shop.