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Just like the good old days of house water plumbing, one would place shutoff valves to isolate bathrooms, second floors, heaters, etc.
It might be a good SOP for your air lines.
would make trouble shooting easier and you could isolate a leak, while still using the rest of the run.
Bobmo, master of disasters
 
Bob Morazes said:
Just like the good old days of house water plumbing, one would place shutoff valves to isolate bathrooms, second floors, heaters, etc.
It might be a good SOP for your air lines.
would make trouble shooting easier and you could isolate a leak, while still using the rest of the run.
Bobmo, master of disasters
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I have a couple shutoffs plumbed in. I was thinking of adding some more and I may one day. Easy enough to do later with this setup. Although, if I’d already did it, I could have my air on now to the spots that are done.
 
Mines BEEN done for 2 years now. These fittings can get pricey. I don’t have any inline shut-off except at the main feed to the RapidAir lines and at the compressor tank. To go back and install a few somewhere would be a bit rough. I’d need to cut the exact amount of space required as all of the lines are anchored in place to insure against movement…and they don’t move. The amount of leak currently, does not add up to much and takes a few hours to drop off enough to kick the motor back on. Just thinking about it tells me…I love the way it works and I’m happy..👌
 
Last week I got my front entry pad poured. Once the weather stopped freezing here, switched gears to outdoor projects before it’s too hot. We bought this house about a year ago and had to have a new septic system installed, then the site work for the shop, so it’s been dirt out back essentially the whole time we’ve owned it. Previous owners had it 3.5 years and literally never even mowed the lawn. We took out a whole bunch of overgrown brush, leveled/smoothed out front and back yards, installed a whole new sprinkler system instead of trying to fix the cobbled mess that was there, grass seed down and rock edging, then graded for the front shop pad. Pad is 20’ out from the shop; wanted to be able to park fully on concrete if I need to work on something outside. Next week I’ll finish grading to the pad and start the flagstone walkway from house to shop.

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Is concrete pricey on the west coast… my outdoor pad is 47’x15’ and another apron at 10’x 6’ and paid over $6000 extra…my only saving grace was their miscalculation …it turned out to be 7-8” thick. I should have gone 20’
 
knuckle47 said:
Is concrete pricey on the west coast… my outdoor pad is 47’x15’ and another apron at 10’x 6’ and paid over $6000 extra…my only saving grace was their miscalculation …it turned out to be 7-8” thick. I should have gone 20’
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I went through a friend for this pad. 6” thick and it was $4500. Was getting quotes of about $175-185 per yard of concrete and anywhere from $5.50-$9 per sq ft finished.
 
The end result with flagstone walkway and grass starting to grow and the entry to the pad all graded. Finally done with outside projects for the summer and can just enjoy the summer! It’s about 18” higher at the house end of the path than the shop end.

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Sure is…you did a great job..

Thursday: I have come back to this photo 4 times in the last 12 hours…. Decided this looks so good, I am going to add “flagstone walkway” to the next fall’s project.

You gotta know I love it
 
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Been using the shop and still deciding where to put things. Added a mezzanine off the compressor room in the back that spans 10’ more of the back wall to get more stuff off the ground and shelves. No pics of that but FINALLY finished my can crusher I’ve had in my head for a couple years. Uses a 3FE rod and piston. Enough height for tall boys and man cans, just in case 16 oz of Space Dust isn’t enough. (In the background you can see the urinal is finally in too!)
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Not shop related, but…. Spent the last few days on a fake rock fireplace wall. Was an open fireplace with a brick wall 12’ wide when we bought the (project foreclosure) house. One of the first things we did 2 years ago was rip out the brick and frame the eventual fox-rock wall (throws people when you say fox rock and not faux rock. Just like our fox-wood blinds; sounds exotic). Finally got around to doing it and putting in a wood burning insert. Waiting on the mantle beam to finish its drying and cracking, then stain it.
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@Skreddy nice work….i have friends who stop by and have no concept of this type of work. They”call the man” for everything
 
I decided about 15 years ago, I’m pretty much not paying anyone to do anything. I’ll buy the tools and learn the skill. Except concrete slabs. I want that to look good and it’s too expensive to F that up learning. Walkways and small stuff I’ll do, but that’s it.
 
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