New to FJ40 Scene (1 Viewer)

[FloridaLife]

Thank you. But it seems like they were saying it was something that would improve oiling, rather than something to prevent a blowout.

I remember Mark W said:

"The boss for the oil passage is there. However, it has not been drilled. That is '72 head. They introduced the casting into the production line before the modification was made to the oiling system in the very late Fs and in the 2 Fs.

That head is still a bit of a find, but the bore for the oil passage will need to be drilled for it to be installed on a 2F. Alternatively, you can retain the rocker arm assembly that was originally on there and oil the rock arms with a new oil line. The simplest way to supply oil to that line is to tap in to the oil filter amount or use a T on the oil pressure sending unit.

Mark..."

So, I'm wondering exactly where that is? Where it needs to be drilled? And how deep? Any info I would need to tell the machine shop when I take the head to have it checked and serviced before installing it on the 2F.

 

[pb4ugo]

You can try to start a private conversation with Mark W, or you can try and get his attention to this thread by typing his member ID like this @FloridaLife.

 

[FloridaLife]

You can try to start a private conversation with Mark W, or you can try and get his attention to this thread by typing his member ID like this @FloridaLife.

I sent him a private message before posting here, but I know sometimes he goes on outings and trips with friends, 4WD and hiking and camping, and didn't know how long it might be before he sees it, so I thought I would post in here too and see if anyone knew and could answer sooner.

 

[charliemeyer007]

The internet always has problems, too many spy agencies vying for dominance so maybe hasn't got the message yet or perhaps he just doing other stuff.

 

[FloridaLife]

The internet always has problems, too many spy agencies vying for dominance so maybe hasn't got the message yet or perhaps he just doing other stuff.

You've got that right! And on top of China, Russia, and Iran, then our own government (here in the USA) is wasting time & tax payer money spying on and trying to sensor us, instead of securing our border or fixing the economy. Not to mention that I've received 3 notifications in the past month that medical records were hacked, mortgage information was hacked, and so on.

 

[Pighead]

So, I'm wondering exactly where that is? Where it needs to be drilled? And how deep? Any info I would need to tell the machine shop when I take the head to have it checked and serviced before installing it on the 2F.

So this is another one of those hare-brained ideas that @Mark W comes up with? Like that time he added an external oil cooler to a 2F block where the oil filter used to be on the F? Sure, it can be done, but it's not in the FAQs because it's not done a lot.
You can pretty much see where the holes need to be drilled just by looking at the head and the block and the rocker shaft support, but everything needs to line up perfectly. Take the head to your best machinist, get it cleaned and looked at and explain what you want done. Most people find an easier way.

 

[FloridaLife]

So this is another one of those hare-brained ideas that @Mark W comes up with? Like that time he added an external oil cooler to a 2F block where the oil filter used to be on the F? Sure, it can be done, but it's not in the FAQs because it's not done a lot.
You can pretty much see where the holes need to be drilled just by looking at the head and the block and the rocker shaft support, but everything needs to line up perfectly. Take the head to your best machinist, get it cleaned and looked at and explain what you want done. Most people find an easier way.

I know as much now as I did before asking. LOL. "IF" I knew the exact spot, then I could take it to a machinist, put my finger on it, and tell him "right here".

And you said "holes", plural. I take that to mean that it needs more than 1 hole drilled?

And as for "Most people find an easier way." I'm all ears if someone would like to share an easier way.

Thanks

 

[Pighead]

And you said "holes", plural. I take that to mean that it needs more than 1 hole drilled?

I imagine that there would be 3 holes to drill, the one that starts at the plug that posted the pic of and ends under the rocker shaft support, one in the rocker support mount and one from the block up to the first hole.
Most people just find a head that works, failing that I have seen a few hard line oil lines from an oil filter mount up to the rocker shaft.

 

[brian]

And as for "Most people find an easier way." I'm all ears if someone would like to share an easier way.

Thanks

Take a couple 10thousandths off a 2f head

 

[Mark W]

So this is another one of those hare-brained ideas that @Mark W comes up with? Like that time he added an external oil cooler to a 2F block where the oil filter used to be on the F? Sure, it can be done, but it's not in the FAQs because it's not done a lot.

Hare-brained? I prefer original, innovative, brilliant and ahead of my time, thank you very much.

A bit more seriously, I still consider that one of my better ideas that worked out nicely.

The oiling system on the 2F is not terrible. Not at all. But it does have some areas that can be improved. After seeing that the majority of bearing failures I was dealing with were #5 and #6 rod bearings, I realized that they were at the tail end of the oiling system Even the lifter oil was being pulled off further upstream. A bit of pondering gave me, what I think, was a pretty nifty solution. Basically most of it was a combining of F and 2F systems.

I removed the oil pressure regulator from the late model 2F oil pump, did a bit of clearancing and radiusing of the internal passages and added a 2nd oil output line in place of the regulator. This increased the output of the pump significantly. The limit of the pump was now based totally on just what the rotors could push, with no restriction points getting out. The new oil output line followed the path of the earlier F engine plumbing., in addition of course to the original 2F routing still being used.

A bit of drilling and taping of the block and I was able to mount an early F external oil pressure regulator. Some more drilling, and while the excess oil still dumped back to the pan, the rest of the flow though the regulator was reintroduced to the main oil gallery at the back of the block (the original oil flow from the pump was of course maintained).

What many people have never noticed is that the external oil pressure regulator is adjustable! Not really a design goal of Toyota, just a side effect of how it is put together really. I blew up a couple of oil filters during the testing and tuning of the system.

I also added an oil cooler (air exchange, not the fluid exchange cooler/warmer/moderator that the late model 2F had). And dual "2 quart" remote mounted oil filters. None of this was directly part of the oil path/pump mods/external regulator setup. But it was part of a prototype build that was also seeing some performance mods, so... why not. The F series engines are hard on oil (shear and heat) and I was on a mission.

The end result was an oiling system that maintained sufficient... excess probably... flow to the entire engine, even at the tail end of the system, and one which allowed me to tun the pressure to whatever I felt was needed based on engine (bearing) age/condition, the use of the rig and environmental conditions.

It really was not all that much work to build, it was transparent and ignoreable in terms of operation and it had no (so far as I ever determined) downsides at all.


Hey, everyone thought Ol' Doc brown was hare-brained when he went on about the flux modulator. But then they didn't build a time traveling Delorean now did they?

Mark...

 

[Mark W]

Take a couple 10thousandths off a 2f head

More than a couple. Max out the full amount that Toyota specs and you *might* get close to what the late model F head produces.

Mark

 

[Mark W]

I sent him a private message before posting here, but I know sometimes he goes on outings and trips with friends, 4WD and hiking and camping, and didn't know how long it might be before he sees it, so I thought I would post in here too and see if anyone knew and could answer sooner.

I saw your note a few minutes ago.

Not really sure what else to say. All you are doing is replicating the passage that Toyota drilled in the later heads. The boss is there for you on that head, it was just never drilled. One passage (drilled all the way through from the outside and then plugged at the entry point) right through the middle of the boss will take oil from the head bolt bore, over to the rocker arm pedestal mount. An intersecting passage from the end of that, up to the bottom of the rocker pedestal will put the oil right where it needs to be for the OEM 2F rocker arm assembly..

I *could* go pull a head out of one of the storage rigs and measure, photograph, diagram and record... but those heads are heavy, it is raining and it would not really tell you any more than that anyway.

"I'm a concept man! Don't bother me with the details!" (Not sure what that quote is from, but I have always loved it)


Mark...

 

[FloridaLife]

Hare-brained? I prefer original, innovative, brilliant and ahead of my time, thank you very much.

A bit more seriously, I still consider that one of my better ideas that worked out nicely.

The oiling system on the 2F is not terrible. Not at all. But it does have some areas that can be improved. After seeing that the majority of bearing failures I was dealing with were #5 and #6 rod bearings, I realized that they were at the tail end of the oiling system Even the lifter oil was being pulled off further upstream. A bit of pondering gave me, what I think, was a pretty nifty solution. Basically most of it was a combining of F and 2F systems.

I removed the oil pressure regulator from the late model 2F oil pump, did a bit of clearancing and radiusing of the internal passages and added a 2nd oil output line in place of the regulator. This increased the output of the pump significantly. The limit of the pump was now based totally on just what the rotors could push, with no restriction points getting out. The new oil output line followed the path of the earlier F engine plumbing., in addition of course to the original 2F routing still being used.

A bit of drilling and taping of the block and I was able to mount an early F external oil pressure regulator. Some more drilling, and while the excess oil still dumped back to the pan, the rest of the flow though the regulator was reintroduced to the main oil gallery at the back of the block (the original oil flow from the pump was of course maintained).

What many people have never noticed is that the external oil pressure regulator is adjustable! Not really a design goal of Toyota, just a side effect of how it is put together really. I blew up a couple of oil filters during the testing and tuning of the system.

I also added an oil cooler (air exchange, not the fluid exchange cooler/warmer/moderator that the late model 2F had). And dual "2 quart" remote mounted oil filters. None of this was directly part of the oil path/pump mods/external regulator setup. But it was part of a prototype build that was also seeing some performance mods, so... why not. The F series engines are hard on oil (shear and heat) and I was on a mission.

The end result was an oiling system that maintained sufficient... excess probably... flow to the entire engine, even at the tail end of the system, and one which allowed me to tun the pressure to whatever I felt was needed based on engine (bearing) age/condition, the use of the rig and environmental conditions.

It really was not all that much work to build, it was transparent and ignoreable in terms of operation and it had no (so far as I ever determined) downsides at all.


Hey, everyone thought Ol' Doc brown was hare-brained when he went on about the flux modulator. But then they didn't build a time traveling Delorean now did they?

Mark...

Correction.... Flux capacitor.

That all sounds super cool, but since my hands aren't steady I'm afraid I'd really mess something up. When things get cold up there you need to come to Central Florida, maybe hit Disney World, Universal Studios, Sea World, and my FJ40 to replicate your oiling improvements.

 

[Mark W]

Correction.... Flux capacitor.

That all sounds super cool, but since my hands aren't steady I'm afraid I'd really mess something up. When things get cold up there you need to come to Central Florida, maybe hit Disney World, Universal Studios, Sea World, and my FJ40 to replicate your oiling improvements.

The flux modulator was his first attempt.

Nothing rocket science here. If you can wrench on the rig to maintain it, you can wrench on it to modify simple stuff like this. For most people, there is no need to modify the oiling system. I improved it because I could and I wanted to and at that time I was pushing 2Fs a bit hard. your's is a street rig. Treat it right and it will run until they ban gasoline.

Mark...

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think it was the space modulator

 

[FloridaLife]

The flux modulator was his first attempt.

Nothing rocket science here. If you can wrench on the rig to maintain it, you can wrench on it to modify simple stuff like this. For most people, there is no need to modify the oiling system. I improved it because I could and I wanted to and at that time I was pushing 2Fs a bit hard. your's is a street rig. Treat it right and it will run until they ban gasoline.

Mark...

Thank you. After it is done, it will by far be the most expensive vehicle I've ever owned. So I will treat it REALLY nice! I've never had a new car.

 

[FloridaLife]

So, it took me a while but a tracked down a decent condition OEM pull open ash tray and bought it. The plan is to get it clean to bare metal and paint it the platinum color like the glove box door and other items. But... it will NEVER get used! It will just be for looks.

My FJ40 has the lower dash pad that goes all the way across the dash. Not the separate lower dash pad pieces with a space in between for a radio. Now, everyone on iH8MUD, in regards to a radio, has said whatever you do, DO NOT cut the dash. And I get that. And I know Brian is gonna is really going to want to lay crap out there about how you don't need a stereo, just the sound of the engine, but I love music, and I love cars, and if I combine my love of driving a classic vehicle with listening to some great classic tunes then it is amazing (Brian, no need to throw your comments in here, we've all heard it). I've done it before with other vehicles, and it was AWESOME! Not to mention the fact that when you pull up to a red light in a great looking classic vehicle with some great classic tunes going, you get tons of thumbs up!

So that got me to wondering... what if I use the ash tray opening to mount a stereo??? Has anyone in here done that?

 

[pb4ugo]

Are you gonna run bucket seats or the stk bench style seats?

 

[charliemeyer007]

My ash tray has parking meter and pay phone change. It also still has the pipe plug in case the tubing fails on my direct read oil pressure line - so I can easily cap it off. For many years I had the replacement freeze plug I took out to install the block heater. Well one hot as hell day in July in between McCall and New Meadows I'm cruising along 55 or so and I get a whiff of antifreeze - look in the mirror and I'm like crop duster with a green mist spraying down the road. With in a couple hundred yards there is a wide spot to pull off. Open the hood, look around, there is the block heater laying there. I'm sure at that point it had been there over 10 years. It turns out the little wing strut that holds it in with the screw failed at the screw hole. I get my freeze plug from the tray, and a with a close fitting socket and a 6" extension. Use my 3# lead hammer and seat the plug.

I have 2 gallons of water with me - the cooling system hold 4 gallons. I'm looking way down the hill and there might be some water in the creek - I'd likely drink 2 gallons of water trying to hike back up. So I'm thinking I might be able to go back to New Meadows - its closer and more down hill. Then some long haired friend of Jesus stops. He ask me if I'm saved. I say yes and he has 2 gallons of water too. I make the rest of the trip no issue. Dad brazes up the wing on the block heater with a stiffener and I put it back in - still there. That would have been around 1990. I need to buy another freeze plug to put back in the ash tray.

New tires will be here next week, then plates and insurance and a few electrical light issues and Elsie will be on the road again.

 

[FloridaLife]

Are you gonna run bucket seats or the stk bench style seats?

Stock seats. If I were going to run bucket seats I could put a center console on mounted in there, but I'm going to be running the original seats just to save money.