New to FJ40 Scene (3 Viewers)

[FloridaLife]

I know a few people who have said these same words and they always end up unhappy. Do you think this shop will suddenly stop taking insurance jobs? You’re already setting a precedent that you’re ok being pushed aside for more profitable work.
If they’ve started anything on yours, there’s a time window that primers, etc. can be covered over without reprepping them, which takes time and costs money so it is often skipped, which leads to paint failure later on.
It’s your 40 and your agreement with the paint shop but I wouldn’t let my project get continually pushed aside.

As for hood spear, etc.; if there’s no seam on your hood, the paint shop filled the seam. My thoughts are that the hood is fairly flimsy on these and that seam being filled is going to quickly crack.

Hmmm... good points. I 'could' do something like telling them the mechanic has it scheduled to be in his shop to install the drivetrain in 2 weeks (or maybe 3) and use that as a method to push them.

I don't have a good shot of the front of the hood, but I took this one on my phone once day when I stopped by and now I can clearly see the seam on the split hood, and at that point they had not filled it. I'll make it a point to tell them not to fill it. Does the seam cause any issue with water sitting in there and causing rust?

See attached pic of seam on top:

 

[FloridaLife]

Does anyone have an OEM Grab Handle that goes above the glove box that they are willing to part with? If so, let me know. Mine is missing (if it ever had one).

Thank you.

 

[brian]

Yours didnt have one, they went away about the time dash pads showed up in this market.

 

[FloridaLife]

Yours didnt have one, they went away about the time dash pads showed up in this market.

Well that's good to know. Thank you. I thought it went where the 2 holes are in the pad on each side of the glove box, but now that you said that, I bet those are just there for the mounting bolts or screws for the dash pad. See attached pic:

 

[timmyisinthewell]

Hope you put some money on that bet, as that is correct.

 

[FloridaLife]

This weekend I want to remove my steering column and column shifter so I can do the electric power steering conversion. Keep in mind that my rig is a 1971 so there is no rag joint, just a straight shot column going to the steering gear box. I just watched a YouTube video of a gentleman removing his, and even after removing the bolt that held the column to the steering box, he tried and tried to pull and get the column loose and pull it and the column shifter out through the dash but he could not. He ended up unbolting the steering gear box, and pulling everything through the firewall and out by the front driver's wheel. What was he missing? There has to be an easier way than unbolting the steering box. And, I need to be careful when removing the column / shaft from the steering box because I have to re-use them.

Suggestions, tips, and/or thoughts?

Thank you,
Don

 

[FloridaLife]

The 1978 drivetrain I am going to use is on a pallet at the mechanic's shop, so I can't look at it to compare, so I'll ask all you experts.

I want to have my alternator re-wound and up the amps that it produces (recommended for the electric power steering I'm going to put on).

Here at the house I have (supposedly) the alternator from the 1971 1F engine that was disassembled and in the back of the FJ when I bought it.

Are the bolt holes / pattern the same from the 1F alternator as the 2F alternator? If so, I can just grab the 1F alternator and take it to have it upgraded. If not, then I'll need to go to the mechanic's shop and remove the one from the 2F.

Also, do they have a built in voltage regulator, or does the FJ40 use a separate external voltage regulator?

Thank you in advance for the info.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Man, seems obvious to me that you would want the newest one which, I assume, is the one on the 2F. Just my 2 Cents.

 

[FloridaLife]

"IF" clutching and shifting turns out to be too painful (due to previous hips & low back surgeries), it is my understanding that Advanced Adapters makes an adapter plate to bolt up an automatic transmission to the 2F.

Man, seems obvious to me that you would want the newest one which, I assume, is the one on the 2F. Just my 2 Cents.

Yes, but my point is "IF" they have the same bolt pattern, and "IF" they both put out the same amount of amps, then instead of driving all the way over to the mechanic's shop where the 2F drivetrain is on a pallet waiting and taking that alternator off to take and have it re-wound to increase how many amps it produces, I could just grab the one in my garage and take it to be re-wound and then swap them out when the drivetrain goes in.

ePowerSteering.com recommends an alternator amp output of 65 amps or more so the EOS doesn't drag your system down. I'm thinking I'll get it re-wound to 100 amps and have plenty for the future.

 

[FloridaLife]

As you all know, I recently purchased my first FJ40, a 1971. I had to buy a replacement drivetrain so I bought a 1978 2F + 4 speed + transfer case and it also came with a mechanical Overdrive (high and low). Due to surgery on both hips 39 years ago and 5 spine surgeries (3 in my low back) my wife thinks I'll be miserable in pain clutching and shifting gears. So, I'm "considering" a V8 & Automatic transmission swap. My first thought was "Use a Toyota V8 & tranny". I see in another thread I searched where someone has done 2 using the Toyota V8. Does anyone know if it is cheaper to do a Toyota V8 + auto tranny swap, or a Chevy V8 (like an LS) + auto tranny swap? I'm on a tight budget, and due to all the surgeries I'll have to pay someone else to do it for me. My neighbor is a Corvette guy, has 4 or 5 of them, and takes 1 over to the track at Daytona and runs laps over there. He said you can buy a complete LS out of a wrecked pickup, complete with wire harness, computer and everything for about $800. But I bet that doesn't include a tranny.

I'm wondering out loud if I could sell the 2F drivetrain for the $2,800 I paid for it and cover the cost of a V8 + automatic transmission...???

One of my biggest questions for everyone is "IF" I do a V8 + Auto Transmission swap, can I still use my Toyota transfer case and 4 wheel drive? I still have the 3 speed transfer case and driveshafts. If so, what is needed in order to connect them? Or, would I have to buy a new drivetrain complete with 4WD transfer case?

I also in the thread I searched and read, noticed some talk about heat from the V8. I've even thought about putting a V6 + automatic in my FJ40. The V6 in our 2004 Toyota Sienna mini van has plenty of power for an FJ40. I even thought about pulling the 4 cylinder + automatic out of my 1999 Gen 3 4Runner but a guy bought the 4Runner from me and I'm putting that money towards the FJ project.

Thoughts? You guys running a V8 and an Automatic Transmission let me know how you did it, where you still able to have 4 Wheel Drive, how big of a hassle was it, and how expensive was it?

Thanks

 

[jimkyser]

How about putting the 3fe/auto trans/tcase ftom an fj62 in your truck. Biggest challange eould be rear driveshaft length. But it’s all toyota and would require no adapters.

With an sbc or ls swap that includes a chevy auto trans, you’ll need an adaper from the chevy transmission to a toyota transfer case. Any late model chevy transfer case is going to have the rear output centered, where your fj40 is offset yo the right/passenger side, and the front output on the left/driver side, where your fj40 is offset to the passenger/driver side

 

[FloridaLife]

How about putting the 3fe/auto trans/tcase ftom an fj62 in your truck. Biggest challange eould be rear driveshaft length. But it’s all toyota and would require no adapters.

With an sbc or ls swap that includes a chevy auto trans, you’ll need an adaper from the chevy transmission to a toyota transfer case. Any late model chevy transfer case is going to have the rear output centered, where your fj40 is offset yo the right/passenger side, and the front output on the left/driver side, where your fj40 is offset to the passenger/driver side

I had not heard that suggestion before. Is the 3Fe/auto a straight six, V6, or V8?

And if everything would line up to the passengers side, then worse case scenario I could take my 3 speed driveshafts or my 4 speed driveshafts and have a shop use those to custom make a rear driveshaft.

Thank you for the suggestion. I wonder what a 3Fe/auto drivetrain would cost?

 

[jimkyser]

The 3fe is a fuel injected 3rd generation f-family inline six. It was also sold as a carburated 3f in markets other than north smerica. The block and head are dimmensionaly similar to the f and 2f. It displaces 4.0 liters vs 4.2 for the 2f and 3.9 for the f. I’m not sure if The fj62 transmission isnt too long to make it work. You might end up with little or no room for a rear driveshaft.

 

[FloridaLife]

The 3fe is a fuel injected 3rd generation f-family inline six. It was also sold as a carburated 3f in markets other than north smerica. The block and head are dimmensionaly similar to the f and 2f. It displaces 4.0 liters vs 4.2 for the 2f and 3.9 for the f. I’m not sure if The fj62 transmission isnt too long to make it work. You might end up with little or no room for a rear driveshaft.

Thank you.

 

[FloridaLife]

Previously when I had posted about parts I had for sale, multiple people said I should keep the head because just bolting it on my 2F would increase the compression. So I have kept it. But, it was also mentioned that it would need to be drilled out at a certain place to improve the oiling. Below I will post some pics of it. Would someone please photo edit and place a circle or an arrow at the exact spot that needs to be drilled please? Thank you!

 

[Pighead]

it was also mentioned that it would need to be drilled out at a certain place to improve the oiling.

IIRC, the '74 head bolted right on the 2F block, no drilling required.
You may be thinking of that oil passage plug in the head that sometimes blows out, the one that needs to be permanently plugged before that happens.
Just above and in front of sparkplug #5

 

[FloridaLife]

IIRC, the '74 head bolted right on the 2F block, no drilling required.
You may be thinking of that oil passage plug in the head that sometimes blows out, the one that needs to be permanently plugged before that happens.
Just above and in front of sparkplug #5

View attachment 3730157

"Supposedly" this is a 1971 head. However, when I went over to cruisermatt's he ran the numbers on the carb that I had and if I remember correctly it pulled up as a '73 carb. So it is entirely possible that it had an engine swap at some point.

I would have to go back and dig through mountains of thread responses, but I'm pretty sure they were saying a passage needed to be drilled, rather than plugged. But, my memory isn't what it used to be. LOL! Getting old SUCKS!

 

[OlYellr]

The galley plug is what it is called on other threads. It is a known weakness and when it blows, you don’t have long to shut the car off.

I had the machine shop plug mine for engine rebuild- I will edit the post if I find the $ they charged for reference.

I would not date the head based on the carb, while logical, anything possible with a 50 year-old car. There are numbers on the manifold that goes with model number etc to cypher.

 

[Pighead]

"Supposedly" this is a 1971 head.

Anything earlier than the Late F head will require work to fit. Go by the casting number on the head itself.

 

[FloridaLife]

The galley plug is what it is called on other threads. It is a known weakness and when it blows, you don’t have long to shut the car off.

I had the machine shop plug mine for engine rebuild- I will edit the post if I find the $ they charged for reference.

I would not date the head based on the carb, while logical, anything possible with a 50 year-old car. There are numbers on the manifold that goes with model number etc to cypher.

Thank you. But it seems like they were saying it was something that would improve oiling, rather than something to prevent a blowout.