Builds Hygge's Sawdust FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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@cruisermatt good to know I should try andything stupid on these steps... But they look like fake slidera almost.
 
@EscapeWagon62 hmm... FSM is pretty great . But I think it's basically a can of worms when you get in there to do any manifold work. You could very easily go over board and start cleaning up, replacing etc a bunch of things . Like your injectors, paint the exhaust (I did that), paint the heat shield on the exhaust (did this too - not sure why). And replaced all the vacuum lines since everything was apart anyway.

Use lots of PB blaster on the exhaust manifold nuts and bolts. Get replacement donut gaskets .

Take your time and don't rush it.

Take a ton of pictures and bag each set of nuts, bolts and parts for easy reassembly.

I think those are main things. But I forget stuff all the time too .
 
In the throes of my Power Steering Gearbox rebuild .I feel like there has been much progress tonight .

Got it half way put back together. Getting the 44 bearing balls back into the worm drive was NOT fun. Took me a good hour plus .

The trick if you ever lose your BBs is to place the drive all of the way into the Piston. Then you unscrew the tube on top of the assembly and leave half of the tube in. Place the BBs back in and wiggle the worm drive back and forth slowly until you have them all back in the worm drive assembly .use some Grease to keep the last balls in while you place the tubes back together .

Still need to figure out how to get the worm drive assembly back inside the main housing . So far I haven't ripped the Teflon ring .

Should I lightly use the mallet on the end of the worm drive to tap it into the housing? Or is this sacrosinct? I feel like once I get over this hump it's smooth sailing .

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Got the auxiliary BM 20768 installed today. Went the lazy route and used the zipties through the radiator and ac condenser.

Had a little trouble with fittings using the stock BM fittings, but was able to get it some fittings over at Napa Auto that worked.

Also added an inline filter so hopefully that helps to make the transmission last a little bit longer .

Time will tell.

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Got the auxiliary BM 20768 installed today. Went the lazy route and used the zipties through the radiator and ac condenser.

Had a little trouble with fittings using the stock BM fittings, but was able to get it some fittings over at Napa Auto that worked.

Also added an inline filter so hopefully that helps to make the transmission last a little bit longer .

Time will tell.

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One thing you might consider....

Get some 5/8 or 3/4" heater hose, cut about 1-2" sections, then cut them lengthwise to make them into sleeves.

Slide them over the trans hose where the hoses currently run through the headlight/radiator support area. Zip tie the sleeves to the hose.

If theres ang vibration/movement between sheetmetal and rubber, the sleeve will take the brunt of it, not the hose.

I did this on my FJ40 when/as needed. Old photo/setup, but shows what I mean. Very cheap and easy insurance.

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One thing you might consider....

Get some 5/8 or 3/4" heater hose, cut about 1-2" sections, then cut them lengthwise to make them into sleeves.

Slide them over the trans hose where the hoses currently run through the headlight/radiator support area. Zip tie the sleeves to the hose.

If theres ang vibration/movement between sheetmetal and rubber, the sleeve will take the brunt of it, not the hose.

I did this on my FJ40 when/as needed. Old photo/setup, but shows what I mean. Very cheap and easy insurance.

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Love it. That's a great idea I had not thought of. Makes total sense .

I will do that shortly!!

Thank you for the suggestion. Please keep them coming.
 
Made some progress today in anticipation of finishing up the gearbox rebuild.

First, was finally able to get the Piston to go into the housing. Took some mallet tapping to make sure it was seated properly and evenly. The last bit I am facing right now is getting the teflon ring to not bulge out as I try and push the piston into the bottom of the housing. Trying to NOT tear it ( so as not having to buy replacement seals.

Prepped and painted the Intermediate Shaft Protector and Pitman Arm. There was serious rust on the bottom portion of the shaft protector, so I am glad I was able to address that.

Lastly, swapped out the rusty screws that hold in place the rear cargo carpet stay with 6 stainless steel screws.

Progress...
 
Getting the Teflon ring to not push out on the Piston proved to be the second most ridiculous part of the entire Steering Gearbox rebuild.

Once it's compacted in the gear housing, the Piston makes the Teflon bulge out ever so slightly which forces it to get caught on the lip of the lower housing .

To get around this I did a few things.

First, pushed it all the way down and using various tools ( screwdriver, pliers) I attempted to push in the seal while also applying downward pressure.

Second, I added MP Grease over both the seal and inside the lower housing.

Third, I jammed it in there and cut the lip of the Teflon seal. I basically did not rip it, but also can't be sure if there is anything wrong with it since it is now in the housing .

Had I wanted to be more professional about it, I could have deburred the inner /lower housing.

Next I added some MP Grease to the Teeth on the Piston and the Sector Shaft.

My torque wrench sucks, so I am buying another one right now. I'll attempt to torque to spec on Thursday and mount the finished rebuilt steering Gearbox this weekend .

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I don't know if it's me or the torque wrench set I am buying (perhaps too cheap). But I can't seem to get the new one I bought by Tekton to make any discernible click at the different torque settings.

But I did get the pitman arm installed finger tight .and I am going to mount the steering Gearbox either later tonight or Saturday .

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My Air Conditioning Saga

First, I probably would not care if there was AC or not in the truck. I've never had AC in my 91' Toyota pickup and when I was a kid, I didn't have AC in my 1980 Corolla. However, times change when you get married and have a young infant. Part of the deal with the LC was that not only did it have to be automatic so my wife can drive it (hence the 62 and not a 60), but it had to have AC, so that I could take the family on trips and have them be comfortable.

So this is where the "saga" begins.

Originally the dryer was not even hooked up to anything when I first bought the truck. I had no idea what worked or did NOT work. I just knew the system was r12 and bone dry. I bought an r134 conversion kit from Cool Cruisers of Texas which includes some o-rings, pag 46 oil and a new dryer for around $131.06.

On first attempt I went to a local Japanese Auto Repair shop and they evacuated the system and charged it. When they attempted to cycle the clutch, the fan belt snapped in half. It turns out they did not check to see if the compressor was still good ( of if the clutch would engage or not).

$400 wasted at this point on stupid mechanics.

Next, I went to Amazon and bought a new Denso compressor (P/N #471-1433 at $240.00) and found a different shop that specializes in AC repair. They installed the new compressor, added oil to the system, evacuated it and charged it. All is well. Shop fees were $539.53.


At this point I had invested $1,310.59 in my AC system. BUT - it worked and I had cool refreshing air!!!

Happy Wife and Happy Life during summer of 2018.
 
By October it was time to start working on replacing the radiator. I though it would be smart idea to try and remove a sheared off bolt by drilling it out. What I failed to pay attention to was the AC Condenser 1/2" below the bolt. Giant mess - hazmat team should have been there.

It was time for a new AC Condenser from RockAuto.

Cost: $140.88 delivered
 
That was so much fun getting it installed ( and it helped that I was already tearing into the Radiator). Biggest take away was to have the Radiator Center Support removed before doing any of this work.

 
At around this point it was getting colder and I was more focused on fixing the radiator, replacing the water pump, thermostat, heater hoses, etc.

I got feedback on the forum that since I was replacing the AC Condenser I should consider replacing the Evaporator and the Expansion Valve.

So I finally bought the Evaporator Denso #476-0072 ($61.55 on Amazon Prime) and Expansion Valve ( $15 from RockAuto).

I looked into replacing the old AC lines from the compressor to the firewall and from the compressor to the Condenser, but unless I have a shop make these, I'll just reuse the existing lines.

If anyone has a better way of sourcing NOS or aftermarket AC hoses, please let me know.

Currently I am prepping to swap in the new Evaporator and Expansion Valve this weekend.
 
At around this point it was getting colder and I was more focused on fixing the radiator, replacing the water pump, thermostat, heater hoses, etc.

I got feedback on the forum that since I was replacing the AC Condenser I should consider replacing the Evaporator and the Expansion Valve.

So I finally bought the Evaporator Denso #476-0072 ($61.55 on Amazon Prime) and Expansion Valve ( $15 from RockAuto).

I looked into replacing the old AC lines from the compressor to the firewall and from the compressor to the Condenser, but unless I have a shop make these, I'll just reuse the existing lines.

If anyone has a better way of sourcing NOS or aftermarket AC hoses, please let me know.

Currently I am prepping to swap in the new Evaporator and Expansion Valve this weekend.

This is next for me. I did new dryer, condenser, and compressor. Need to get the dash apart next. Glad to have your guidance here. I stayed with R12. Need to find an AC guy to charge it for me.

These rains suck right now. I actually do have a 2 car garage but it’s filled to the max with tools and who knows what else so I can’t fit my rig in there. My garage also floods in heavy rains so I’m constantly sucking up water and fighting off mold. One of the other reasons I’m not dying to have my rig in the garage.
 
@joebattle1 thanks !

There is a slight modification I need to make on the Exoansion Valve PN .

The valve that RockAuto had me order is incorrect. The PN is actually 475-0101 by Denso. I only figured this out last night after I took the unit apart and saw that the expansion valve from Rock Auto had an extra copper hose coming off of it .

See pictures of aide by aide comparison .

Normally Rock Auto is very solid on parts so I never would have questioned if it was the right part or not .

Friendly pine needles, dirt, seeds, hair and other fun things in the evaporator housing .

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Great thread and good luck going forward! Does Coast appreciate that you're taking such good care of his Land Cruiser?
@Wayne Jacobs lol. Yeah it will probably be his and then I can build out an FJ40 or get a 45 Troopy .
 
Finally got the Power Steering Gearbox installed.

Well that took a while. The torque wrench was super helpful.

Decided to throw on some rustoleum in the morning to "freshen up" the chassis and mounting points for the gear box .

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Been cleaning up the blower unit. Jeez it is eye opening how nasty these things get with grime and dust.

Trying to source some open cell polyurethane to rebuild the flaps.

These things disintegrate like a papyrus scroll.

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Fabric store for your foam. That's where I got mine when I restored my 40 heater.
 

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