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- Thread starter
- #102
Attempting to figure out how to make my rear washer motor work.
I've diagnosed that the motor itself works okay, after hooking it up directly to the battery.
I hooked up to the connector and when I pressed the up or down button on the front of the dash I could get the rear wiper to work, but did not see any change in current at the connector to the motor. So I feel like I've ruled out a fuse, since the wiper motor is working. I think they are on the same fuse( the rear washer motor and wiper motor) .
Any further suggestions for troubleshooting?
Originally I thought maybe the washer fluid line was clogged (so I bought 25' of aquarium air line hose to replace). But now that I can't get the motor to turn on at all I don't think it's a clogged line.
I've diagnosed that the motor itself works okay, after hooking it up directly to the battery.
I hooked up to the connector and when I pressed the up or down button on the front of the dash I could get the rear wiper to work, but did not see any change in current at the connector to the motor. So I feel like I've ruled out a fuse, since the wiper motor is working. I think they are on the same fuse( the rear washer motor and wiper motor) .
Any further suggestions for troubleshooting?
Originally I thought maybe the washer fluid line was clogged (so I bought 25' of aquarium air line hose to replace). But now that I can't get the motor to turn on at all I don't think it's a clogged line.
- Thread starter
- #103
Pictures of my progress
I just picked up an FJ62 myself, I'll be watching this thread closely. Thanks for adding pictures!
- Thread starter
- #105
Cowl Cleaning and refresh on the windshield wiper motor.
As expected lots of dirt, leaves and stuff in the cowl.
While in there saw rusty on the windshield wiper motor housing plate, so cleaned that up before reassembly. Some fresh paint!
As expected lots of dirt, leaves and stuff in the cowl.
While in there saw rusty on the windshield wiper motor housing plate, so cleaned that up before reassembly. Some fresh paint!
Curses....I've been meaning to fix my broken rear washer hose for a long time. You've inspired me to get on it. Lots of mixed reviews on how easy or a pain feeding the new hose in can be.
Any idea what the best replacement hose and size is?
My rear wiper is real sometimezy. Also works super slow. I need to dig into this as well.
Cant believe how much crap came out of there. That thing must have lived in the forrest.
Cant believe how much crap came out of there. That thing must have lived in the forrest.
- Thread starter
- #108
Just back from Oreilly's, they sell washer specific tubing that doubles as vacuum tubing too per the label, I'll probably try this first.
It's black rubber and very pliable, sold in different diameters in 6' lengths. It would be nice to get longer than 6' sections but hopefully it will space out to splice the fittings in the right places. Didn't buy any yet, wasn't sure on diameter.
It's black rubber and very pliable, sold in different diameters in 6' lengths. It would be nice to get longer than 6' sections but hopefully it will space out to splice the fittings in the right places. Didn't buy any yet, wasn't sure on diameter.
- Thread starter
- #110
I bought the air tubing off Amazon. It's 25' long and will fit. You can cut it to the right lengths.
- Thread starter
- #111
Yeah for sure gross.
I only did one side. The driver's side has a plastic cover for the access. I don't want to break it while trying it open.
Maybe a gopher lives in there or some other forest animal!
Totally worth it cleaning stuff out.
Still need to figure out why the rear washer fluid won't pump. The tubing replacement shouldn't be too bad. It was only $5 off Amazon.
- Thread starter
- #112
Made it to 250,000 mile club! Thank you TLC.
- Thread starter
- #113
Made my 500 plus mile trek in one big push last night into this morning to Palm Springs. Next stop Joshua Tree and Yucca Valley.
- Thread starter
- #114
We decided on the 23.5 mile trek down the Geology Road Trail through Joshua Tree. Truck worked like a charm. It took about 4 hours for us to leave the trailhead and make it back to our Airbnb in Yucca Valley.
There were a few pickups out there, so I believe this is a doable trail for just about anybody. I have no lift, run 31" tires and only have the center differential.
Fun times.
The drive back from Joshua Tree was pretty long ( 500 miles in one day). My biggest issue was with overheating - I could only go about 60 mph on the I-5 Freeway, without the water temperature spiking. During a part of my drive after passing through Johnson Valley following along the 247, I had to pull over twice near Mojave Desert. It wasn't even hot out ( maybe 70 degrees).
Beyond the annoyance of overheating and driving really really slow - I am glad I took the rig out to the desert and saw its capabilities!
There were zero leaks throughout the trip, no need to refill the coolant or anything. I was really pleased that my work to the truck over the last year has held up to a 1300 mile weekend trip.
There were a few pickups out there, so I believe this is a doable trail for just about anybody. I have no lift, run 31" tires and only have the center differential.
Fun times.
The drive back from Joshua Tree was pretty long ( 500 miles in one day). My biggest issue was with overheating - I could only go about 60 mph on the I-5 Freeway, without the water temperature spiking. During a part of my drive after passing through Johnson Valley following along the 247, I had to pull over twice near Mojave Desert. It wasn't even hot out ( maybe 70 degrees).
Beyond the annoyance of overheating and driving really really slow - I am glad I took the rig out to the desert and saw its capabilities!
There were zero leaks throughout the trip, no need to refill the coolant or anything. I was really pleased that my work to the truck over the last year has held up to a 1300 mile weekend trip.
My biggest issue was with overheating - I could only go about 60 mph on the I-5 Freeway, without the water temperature spiking.
When my FJ40 did that, it was due to a clogged radiator. At 60, you have plenty of air flow, so the radiator's ability to reject heat is a suspect in this case (though not the only possibility). How old is your radiator, and/or is it nasty inside?
When my FJ40 did that, it was due to a clogged radiator. At 60, you have plenty of air flow, so the radiator's ability to reject heat is a suspect in this case (though not the only possibility). How old is your radiator, and/or is it nasty inside?
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Just a thought, did your fuel gauge move to empty as well when the temp needle move too hot?
Usually a gremlin that does that. Makes you think your overheating but you are really are not. There is a thread in here about that.
Either way nice rig!
Usually a gremlin that does that. Makes you think your overheating but you are really are not. There is a thread in here about that.
Either way nice rig!
When that gremlin hits my gas gauge and temp gauge at the same time it is fairly pronounced to full hot on temp gauge. It usually doesn't just get a little hot. The gremlin would explain the overheating dummy gauge. Time for an IR temp gun to check what is really going on. Especially given all the work you did to it.
- Thread starter
- #119
@Randy88FJ62 @RodrigzCrzr
I did have some gremlins at the very start of the trip, which made zero sense to me ( since it was 12am and it was in the 50's outside).
The gas gauge did not drop to zero, it actually went to over 100% - which was weird since I was about 75 miles into the trip. Most of the time it took until about 50- 85 miles before the gauge started to drop below Full.
But after the initial drive the gauge started to act normal. That said, I didn't get any overheating spikes on the drive down to the desert, except in one place - which was climbing out of Bakersfield on the way up to the summit of Tehachapi on Route 58. Summit is around 4,037ft.
Most of the time if there was any significant grade, I would throw on my flashers, drive in the slow lane and ascend most hills in the 50mph range ( until I ran out of juice and would get into the 30mph). If I tried to push it the temperature would spike and I would pull over, turn off the truck for a minute and the gauge would be back down to 1/3 level. Basically I drove with the temperature gauge at the 1/3 level for 1,000 miles of the trip. If it started to creep up to the middle tick its hard for me to tell if it will jump up to the 3rd tick(red zone). So I try usually to keep it at the bottom tick, which appears to be the normal operating temperature for the engine.
I have a standard 3FE, nothing special. No add-ons. I've thought about changing the CST to 30k or 50k. I replaced my original fan clutch with an Aisin FCT-017 back in September.
Also replaced the Water Pump with an Aisin at the same time as I redid the CSF 2708 radiator. New thermostat OEM, new heater hoses...
I did have some gremlins at the very start of the trip, which made zero sense to me ( since it was 12am and it was in the 50's outside).
The gas gauge did not drop to zero, it actually went to over 100% - which was weird since I was about 75 miles into the trip. Most of the time it took until about 50- 85 miles before the gauge started to drop below Full.
But after the initial drive the gauge started to act normal. That said, I didn't get any overheating spikes on the drive down to the desert, except in one place - which was climbing out of Bakersfield on the way up to the summit of Tehachapi on Route 58. Summit is around 4,037ft.
Most of the time if there was any significant grade, I would throw on my flashers, drive in the slow lane and ascend most hills in the 50mph range ( until I ran out of juice and would get into the 30mph). If I tried to push it the temperature would spike and I would pull over, turn off the truck for a minute and the gauge would be back down to 1/3 level. Basically I drove with the temperature gauge at the 1/3 level for 1,000 miles of the trip. If it started to creep up to the middle tick its hard for me to tell if it will jump up to the 3rd tick(red zone). So I try usually to keep it at the bottom tick, which appears to be the normal operating temperature for the engine.
I have a standard 3FE, nothing special. No add-ons. I've thought about changing the CST to 30k or 50k. I replaced my original fan clutch with an Aisin FCT-017 back in September.
Also replaced the Water Pump with an Aisin at the same time as I redid the CSF 2708 radiator. New thermostat OEM, new heater hoses...
If your truck is overheating, pull over and let it idle so the coolant can flow and cool things down. Turning car off just lets the heat sit. This assumes the truck is ok. Don't leave it running if it's boiling over with steam pouring out.
