I can be a bit abrasive but I meant no offence.Keep it going!
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Pigeaten
GOLD Star
You rubbed him the wrong way
Just scratching the surface apparently.
Well there are many layers to this discussion.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Just a little rough around the edges.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
You want metal; I'll show you mettle.
boy this thread really tarnished
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
I’m sure with a little varnish it will shine again.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
SANDED and BUFFED but never Polished on this forum 
. Polished not Polish that would not be P.C.
. Polished not Polish that would not be P.C. 
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3,172
In case there might be anyone who knows as much or less than I do (if that’s possible) about body shop specific tools, here’s what I could find about the previously mentioned tools that were discussed at length.
Using A Line Sander To Take Down Paint - Bodywork 101 - 1951 Chevy 3100 Truck/Panel Van - https://youtu.be/EJQJaZAD2i8?si=TQNXd6foe4aN1MKn
They both lean towards shaping bondo or surface prep. It is more difficult to find a video showing the air file/in-line sander being used and explained like the guy from the vid with the orbital.
Using A Line Sander To Take Down Paint - Bodywork 101 - 1951 Chevy 3100 Truck/Panel Van - https://youtu.be/EJQJaZAD2i8?si=TQNXd6foe4aN1MKn
They both lean towards shaping bondo or surface prep. It is more difficult to find a video showing the air file/in-line sander being used and explained like the guy from the vid with the orbital.
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The straight line sander is more difficult to master, you will leave a bunch of grooves in the direction you travel the first couple of times you use it. On the other hand I prefer them on a real curvy car like a 50's Chevy over the gear driven orbital.
On something like your roof I would grab my big orbital and hit it with 80 to knock down everything I didn't like then go over that with some 150, and re-prime with a light coat and block with some 320 and re-paint. I would have a total of less than 2 1/2 hours total labor to re-do that.
Using a big flat orbital with coarse (ish) grit will keep it flat and prevent the leopard pattern you developed using the other method saving a ton of time.
I'm trying to help from afar.
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
In my Day, we would have a piece of Sandpaper in each hand 
. Dats how we got it done in da Ole days 
. Dats how we got it done in da Ole days
a flexible longboard in criss cross patterns by hand will work wonders for panelwork, its my go to once i get to the glazing stage. hand sanding for the diy'er works real well,,, i really think most of the powered sanders were only invented for production body shops.
take my wifes car for example that i will be doing pretty soon, clear is peeling and hood is chipped, so the hood will get some pretty aggressive sanding with the orbital for a base respray, but the rest of the car will only be scuffed down by hand, then spray in clear, i am still deciding if i want to spray the whole car or just blend to the good lower half.
take my wifes car for example that i will be doing pretty soon, clear is peeling and hood is chipped, so the hood will get some pretty aggressive sanding with the orbital for a base respray, but the rest of the car will only be scuffed down by hand, then spray in clear, i am still deciding if i want to spray the whole car or just blend to the good lower half.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #3,179
The 2K primer surfacer I used sands great by hand and block (by design).
This single-stage industrial/marine urethane at the thickness it ended up at is ridiculously tough and hard to appreciate unless you’ve spent several days sanding by hand to knock down the orange peel.
Production body shop tools are going to be necessary if I want this job done before winter.
This single-stage industrial/marine urethane at the thickness it ended up at is ridiculously tough and hard to appreciate unless you’ve spent several days sanding by hand to knock down the orange peel.
Production body shop tools are going to be necessary if I want this job done before winter.
I just think there is a curse related to painting the top of a 55. I re-did all my body work after finding hairline cracks in my final paint. I spent hours and hours on it to get it straight and then re-do it and yet I still want to do it again because I have a few ripples (which can't be seen by any human being standing on the ground but I know they're there). Hang in there man and break the curse. 
