Builds Cruisermatt's FJ62 Build-up

[cruisermatt]

I would probably add some simple heat shielding around whatever mounts you use. I need to do this myself. I think the Jeep bushing is a great idea.

Yeah. For sure. The trailblazer mount on the passenger side has a nice heat shield built in already which is nice.
I also have cast iron manifolds now which should help as well.

 

[cruisermatt]

It’s time for some new tires for this truck. My 35” KM2’s will be 5 years old next month and are trashed after this trip. I have a set of Tacoma 17’s with somebody 35” Toyo All terrains that are pretty bald as well that I ran when I was putting a lot of miles on the truck last year up till last spring. With my current commute situation I am now driving significantly less day to day, so I’m thinking I’m just going to go with another set of radial mud tires.
So the question is 35’s or 37’s ...
My brain is telling me 35” but my heart is telling me 37”

Either way new tires won’t come until after I put a new NV4500 in so it will be a few months

 

[Bama4door]

Definitely 37s....

 

[Bripars40]

Might as well bump up to 37s

 

[NookShneer]

Dude.. You already know what we are all going to say here.

37’s all day.

but didn’t you have rubbing on the front with 35’s or am I getting that info crossed up?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

4Ds

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I've been hearing some concerning technical information about the harrop. I heard it disengages in reverse by design and then must reingage again when forward movement is resumed.

This is the video I saw about it.

I've seen that video before and I actually think it's part of a smear campaign by the air locker makers. I think also that Eaton/Harrop took so much of the locker business from ARB, and minor players like TJM that they had to introduce doubt and fear into the buying public. In use, the Harrops are really helpful. They don't have the 25 failure modes like ARBs. But any locker that is selectable, and when failed, defaults to an open differential, is good with me.

The OEMs like Chevy (in the Colorado) and Toyota (Tacoma) are using Eaton/Harrop style lockers for a reason. They work and they don't cause problems. But again, I'm not hard on equipment, and do technical spots at minimum speed and power (usually at idle). ARBs are great. They really are. But for me, they have stopped working too many times to continue. One year the front ARB in my 6o spewed gear oil all over my motor. I was worried it would catch fire but it didn't. That for me, was the beginning of the end. Now, when ARBs need internal service, a Harrop goes back in.

 

[cruisermatt]

I've seen that video before and I actually think it's part of a smear campaign by the air locker makers. I think also that Eaton/Harrop took so much of the locker business from ARB, and minor players like TJM that they had to introduce doubt and fear into the buying public. In use, the Harrops are really helpful. They don't have the 25 failure modes like ARBs. But any locker that is selectable, and when failed, defaults to an open differential, is good with me.

The OEMs like Chevy (in the Colorado) and Toyota (Tacoma) are using Eaton/Harrop style lockers for a reason. They work and they don't cause problems. But again, I'm not hard on equipment, and do technical spots at minimum speed and power (usually at idle). ARBs are great. They really are. But for me, they have stopped working too many times to continue. One year the front ARB in my 6o spewed gear oil all over my motor. I was worried it would catch fire but it didn't. That for me, was the beginning of the end. Now, when ARBs need internal service, a Harrop goes back in.

so, got any ARB's you want to sell for cheap? That half to full rotation of wheeling before re locking sounds super obnoxious to me. Maybe not out west where the traction is good but back east that wouldn't fly.
Counting your list of trucks and all the Harrops and ARB's you've replaced you've spent more on lockers then my whole truck costs

Also, no wonder we didn't run into each other on the trail - I was there a week before you!

 

[cruisermatt]

but didn’t you have rubbing on the front with 35’s or am I getting that info crossed up?

A little bit but now that both fenders are dented I'm more inclined to trim them a bit

 

[FJ60Cam]

My only complaint about the Harrops is that they are absolutely silent and work a little too well. I drove C’Drew’s 60 through the Rubicon last year with zero drama, and his 80 through the easy part the year before. I usually lock preventatively, so the 1/4 turn is a non-issue. If you’re stuck, the 1/4 turn happens while you’re stationary, so it’s also a non-issue.

That said, my ARBs are great when they work. No complaints at all. You usually get one warning trip that they are leaking, and then they fail on the next one. My old style requires a reseal every three years or so. Marlin has a fitting that re-routes the gear oil puke from the solenoid w/some blue hose so you can aim it elsewhere. Highly recommend adding that to your solenoids.

I’m going Harrops tho, so I may have a deal for someone soon!

 

[cruisermatt]

I’m going Harrops tho, so I may have a deal for someone soon!

I'm going to be ready for something in a few months. I'm just putting a ARB or Harrop in the rear for now. Maybe I can exchange a whole third as a core as part of a deal for your rear diff.

 

[White Stripe]

The shop I used to work for installed a lot of arb lockers. I never saw a comeback. The crew I usually roll with have all used the same shop for their arb lockers and I never saw a issue with any of theirs. I've had my arb for a long time. I've never had a problem with it. Last time i had the diff out I changed the orings but the old ones looked fine. I have seen other guys have arb problems but they are always some other group. If I had bad experiences with arb's I guess I would look at other options. I haven't ever driven a harrop equipped truck offroad so I can't comment on personal experience, just what I read.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

ARB's front and rear and never had them fail. Chipped a rear ring and the metal got into the arb and locked it up. That's the worst that has happened with mine.

I'll stick with ARB for rock crawling.

 

[cruisermatt]

The shop I used to work for installed a lot of arb lockers. I never saw a comeback. The crew I usually roll with have all used the same shop for their arb lockers and I never saw a issue with any of theirs. I've had my arb for a long time. I've never had a problem with it. Last time i had the diff out I changed the orings but the old ones looked fine. I have seen other guys have arb problems but they are always some other group. If I had bad experiences with arb's I guess I would look at other options. I haven't ever driven a harrop equipped truck offroad so I can't comment on personal experience, just what I read.

I've installed a few ARB's for others I've just never been able to afford one for myself. Never heard of any issues with any of my local crew's ARBs, about a half dozen or so

 

[cruisermatt]

Got my motor mounts rebuild project all finished up last monday. Had some trouble with some welding access since I didn't pull the motor or anything so some welds are kinda ugly but overall I'm pleased with the result. Looking forwards to when I can get a new NV4500 in there and actually drive it again!

I also managed to cut my front brake line where it goes on the frame while working on the motor mount job so I added a line lock at the same time. Still need to wire it but looking forwards to having a good parking brake now. I'm tired of the 80 parking brake not working on anything other then flat ground. Don't mind the zipties holding it to the frame, didn't have any bolts handy that were long enough.

Anyways not much time and money are going to be aimed at the Cruiser for awhile since I'm working hard on getting another project car finished up so I can race it and then sell it, so the Cruiser is getting moved to my shop where it will sit in the corner until I can afford to fix it up. I may start getting it taken apart but time is kinda short for the next few weeks.

 

[cruisermatt]

@DangerNoodle my frame height is 22.75" level across the bottom

 

[cruisermatt]

selling my old roof rack if anyone's interested

For Sale - Now 40 series basket roof rack old-school Garvin Wilderness [FL]

Selling the roof rack that's been on my 62 since the late 90's. It's a Garvin made Wilderness rack sold by SOR. I'd like to get $600 for it. Includes the gutter mounts and two sets of light mounts. Located in Orlando FL. I can also do any modifications you may want like lowering the basket...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cruisermatt]

another shameless advertisement but i'm selling these all terrains I ran when i was commuting 5-600 miles a week up till earlier this year. For Sale - Toyo AT 35" on Tacoma Alloys with three spare tires [FL]

 

[cruisermatt]

I got some Fail Gear high steer arms for free (My other high steer arms only had the one hole on the passenger side) so I thought I could be fancy and bolt on some sweet made-to-order 7075 solid aluminum steering links from Wide Open Design. Of course my heims don't fit the arm and it can't make it to full lock in either direction They also contact the u-bolt plates
Looks like I'm going 6-stud and some different arms. Should be a good upgrade with the ram-assist and 37's, although I've actually never had a issue with the stock 4-stud setup, stock studs even (although I have replaced them a few times).

Anyways I sorta bolted it together enough to drive it the 2 miles to my shop earlier this evening so I can start tearing it down and see what's up with the NV4500. I'll probably also pull the rear diff out since I am going to stick with 4.11's (there's a 3.70 third in there now i want to resell) and I need to fix the diff cover as well as weld all my parking brake brackets back on since they all got broken off on my trip. I also managed to strip most of the hub bolt threads in one of my rear hubs on a trail repair so i need a new rear wheel hub too. I'm due for rear brakes as well so looks like the whole rear axle is coming out!

 

[cruisermatt]

This morning I picked up the only used Dodge 4WD gas-version NV4500 in the southeast I think. I was planning to buy a new GM version (@meatloaf very generously GAVE me a brand new late-model bellhousing which was super awesome!!) and change some things around with my setup but I really don't have time for a big project in the next few months and this will be a straight bolt-in to my setup, and it was relatively cheap, so I went for it.
I think I have 30 days to return it from the supplier so going to try to get it put in and tested soon.

I'm probably going to keep this tailhousing installed, mine is the super early version with a lower mounting foot, this one will let me change my crossmember and get it tucked up a lot higher. For now I will probably just make a spacer block until I get to that project.
I am going to try to use the bellhousing @meatloaf sent me as it is a lot stronger then the 80's style bellhousing I have as it actually grabs all the bolts including the lower oil pan bolts to really tie everything together. I think I will just have to modify my adapter plate a little bit and make a little more clearance in the bellhousing for my clutch fork.