cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
Traction bars save leaf springs, I had to learn the hard way. Blew 2 sets or rears without a trac bar.
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Loooks like fun. I too broke 7 birfs before i bought longfeilds. Running huge tires with not much room to flex will make contact with the fenders and snap. How are your bumb stops? maybe a wee bit of a body lift or smaller tires would benefit your wheeling experiences. I would be real surprised to see if it broke your locker too? Although you were not able to engage the super low, it must be nice having that option. What size tires are you running?
Why? Your truck is nice and low. I would fix your transfer case shifting, and put some chromoly birfields in first.
How much suspension lift do you have now? What kind of springs? What is it about your suspension that you feel is inadequate? Just the height? Travel? The reason I ask is a soa can be a lot of work and money (not as much as linkes suspension but it still adds up)to dial in, and there is likely some stuff you can do to your current sua setup to make it perform quite differently depending what you want out of a suspension.
I would think u could link the front for almost the same amount of money parts wise as doing soa front. Mainly because you wouldn't have to invest in hi steer. It would be significantly more labor. That is if u just did coils rather than coilovers. If u just installed a front fj80 suspension it would be dirt cheap and about the same labor as a soa front. U can get decent travel out of it, and that suspension seems to hook up on climbs really well. U could upgrade to a three or 4 link with coilovers if u get more money.
Im just throwing ideas out there. I just figured it was for financial reasons that you want linked suspension but your going soa rather than pro rocks, links, and triple bypasses. Seems like financial reasons are a lot of the reason build threads go the directions they go per individual. Anyway hope it goes well.
I thought my comments were worded in a way to suggest my ideas were better ideas, which I really am not sure if they were or not, but I felt like they were worded as if I am a know it all. So I erased them. I don't want to convey ideas that way.White stripe, why did you delete all your other posts?
Going links is more expensive than going SOA, that's a well-known fact. Yes, the direction of the build thread, including suspension design choices are decided in part by cost. If I had the $$ I would have gone with ORIs all around and not messed with leaf springs anymore, but I haven't figured out how to keep my money tree alive yet, so SOA it is.
I thought my comments were worded in a way to suggest my ideas were better ideas, which I really am not sure if they were or not, but I felt like they were worded as if I am a know it all. So I erased them. I don't want to convey ideas that way.
Timing belt on a diesel is something I can't get past personally. Toyota is great, but they do not s*** gold.
Yes that does kill the whole Toyota diesel for me!
my $0.02. 35's seem to look and perform best on SOA using old saggy springs. When you AAL old saggy springs, or buy all new springs, 35's are not the right look IMO. I think the look you have right now is perfect, 35's w SUA so try and keep that same wheel well filler if you can. If I were to do my SOA again, I would have not done AAL's. My truck sits up a little too high and has a little more body roll than I'd like running 35's. The overall wheel well opening to tire is too much IMO. I'm in the process of going to 37's, just saving $ at the moment.
my $0.02. 35's seem to look and perform best on SOA using old saggy springs. When you AAL old saggy springs, or buy all new springs, 35's are not the right look IMO.