Not likely.
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Just curious. The authorities here are fairly relaxed if the engine was from a similar year
The authorities here relax by crushing non compliant privately imported vehicles onto a small cube, while tons of illegal drugs and aliens stroll past.
Honger mentioned earlier in the thread that there were parts in the parts manual to have it without the pod and guage
There seems to be 2 switches, 1 for no pod that fits into slots on the dash(not available which is probably why he has the simple toggle switch fitted). and the other switch for the pod comes with the pod assembly. I suspect the "no pod" option is for dealers who want to pay less for the vehicle. Its the same with the gauge pod for the speedo etc. On the 7* there is 3-4 options in some years. Some markets don't have the tacho or some of the other small gauges.
I think when the head dealer orders their Toyotas for their country, they have list of options they tick. For small countries that have markets not big enough to choose the build, they get stuck with base GEN models. Thats my take on it anyway.
Hello,
Welcome to the madness.
The switch with the red circle on the right is not factory. Extra spotlights maybe?
On pre-1999 models, the second/sub tank gauge is on the dash pod.
On post-1999 models, the gauge is on the main instrument cluster.
Somehow the previous owner connected both tanks to your fuel gauge. I would like to see the setup.
A factory rear AC unit is an option for 75 Series Troopies.
Your front grille is post-1995. You may want to replace it with a model year correct one.
Juan
Welcome to the madness.
The switch with the red circle on the right is not factory. Extra spotlights maybe?
On pre-1999 models, the second/sub tank gauge is on the dash pod.
On post-1999 models, the gauge is on the main instrument cluster.
Somehow the previous owner connected both tanks to your fuel gauge. I would like to see the setup.
A factory rear AC unit is an option for 75 Series Troopies.
Your front grille is post-1995. You may want to replace it with a model year correct one.
Juan
Had the same Aux AC control on my dash. It’s a Yokohama unit that seems to be common in the area. Mine was also cut off and read IAMA lol
gilmorneau
SILVER Star
This is the "why risk it?" part. Yes, there are lots of non-compliant cars in the USA, brought in through nefarious means in some cases, and mere ignorance in others, and not all of them will be seized and destroyed by the Federal authorities, but there are also lots of Federally compliant cars available overseas, so there's no need to gamble.
It's perfectly legal to import a gasoline/petrol powered Landcruiser, so long as it's over 25 years old (technically, 21 years for the Environmental Protection Agency, but 25 years for the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, so by default, 25 years). It's legal, that is, in the eyes of the USA Federal government. But the USA is a Republic of independent states, and each state sets the regulations for the licensing/registering of motor vehicles, not the Federal government (i.e. no one has "USA" license plates here). So while it's legal to import, depending on your local jurisdiction, you may have difficulty registering it for use (see California, for example). One answer would be to legally import it, then (legally) modify it to comply with local/state requirements prior to registration/licensing.
However, there IS an option to import a vehicle with a non-original engine:
The important bit is the "equivalent or newer EPA certified engines and emission control". If you're importing, say, a Landcruiser into which someone has swapped a 1FZ petrol motor, you could (possibly) get it in legally, since there are EPA certified versions of this motor. There would undoubtedly be more paperwork involved, and honestly, why bother when you could just swap in a commonly available and EPA certified 1FZ once you get it here?
Re: the "one guage, two tanks" question, I have seen Australian Troopies modified this way, but I doubt what I saw was factory, FWIW.
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- #48
Hahaha! My son said it looked like a dead cat. It's kinda normal to find these in trucks in the region... a stitched boot that covers both the gear shift and transfer case knob. My FJ40 had one when it came in from Saudi. It was dirty and not to my taste... it's been retired.
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- #49
Yeah, I'm going to investigate the non-factory switch. Seems to do nothing right now.
I kinda like the way the tanks are setup... may keep it this way. Once I dissect it I'll post up how it's working.
Yeah, I'm bummed about the front grille. A replacement has been ordered up. =)
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- #50
Thanks for all the feedback on importation. I actually have a side-business importing restored FJ40's into the US and am somewhat familiar with the EPA and DOT rules. I wasn't aware of the engine swap prohibition... though honestly hadn't looked into it. While I'd love to put a 1HZ into this truck at some point, its a ways down the line. The 3F is working plenty well.
Gotta love that AM / FM radio. 
I would not spend a cent on an engine swap. If the 3F engine is running fine, then I would keep it and run it into the ground. Which should be many years.
A 3F with H55F is a great combination and has more than enough power to push the 75 through it's paces.
I would, however, recommend a EFI kit to make the engine more predictable on cold start up as well as controlled fueling throughout the powerband.
@FJ60Cam sells a great kit. That's one engine modification I would consider.
They were talking about an engine swap if the 3F would not pass his local emission inspection. It being a gas engine with very little emission equipment and all.
Yes, the 3F is a great engine.
Yes, the 3F is a great engine.
Yes, I know. Which is why I said don't even consider it since the 3F is a legal import into the US with no issues.
But this one is a 3F with no cats, air injection or EGR. Hence the potential registration challenges.
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- #57
This past weekend I pulled the wall/bulkhead, the aluminum flooring, and the forward set of side benches.
Removed the machine screws to find a pretty rugged structural steel frame...
Behind my helper you can see the full frame.
The frame was built well and was secured by two tabs that bolted in at the seat belt anchor points. Once the belts were removed, the frame could come free. I had to cut a segment of it as the AC hoses passed through it.
Was surprised at the fab quality of this thing. It was contoured right up to the sides of the truck.
Aluminum flooring removed...
And the front area a bit cleaner.
Removed the machine screws to find a pretty rugged structural steel frame...
Behind my helper you can see the full frame.
The frame was built well and was secured by two tabs that bolted in at the seat belt anchor points. Once the belts were removed, the frame could come free. I had to cut a segment of it as the AC hoses passed through it.
Was surprised at the fab quality of this thing. It was contoured right up to the sides of the truck.
Aluminum flooring removed...
And the front area a bit cleaner.
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- #58
Well shoot... I knew the "factory" reserve fuel tank was too good to be true.
After figuring out how it worked I went ahead and fueled up the truck, both tanks. The reserve tank's filler tube seemed a bit "dry", as if it hadn't been used in a while. Filled it up anyway and verified that yes, the I/II switch does indeed change the tank as well as the gauge reading accordingly.
The next day I though I smelled gas and then looked under the car...
On closer inspection the skid plate and tank are NOT original, though they are secured using a nearly identical manner.
The bummer is that the tank leaks. So I pumped the gas out and into my wife's car... I sure wasn't going to let it go to waste.
I had the shop doing my baseline fluid changes go ahead and drain the last remaining amounts and they send me an amusing photo.
This got me thinking though. The crossmember underneath is clearly the original spare tire holder. And non-reserve tank cars had the spare underneath. And from reading around those trucks didn't have a key reinforcement in the rear door... and I freaked out thinking that my spare was mounted to a flimsy single door panel.
No worries... the guys who installed the tank thought of that apparently.
It's not stock reinforcement, but it's plenty stout.
I'm a bit impressed with how well the reserve tank was installed. Similar fashion to the OEM. The filler port on the side of the truck looks stock other than it's location. The two solenoids that switch both the supply and the return lines. Even the reinforced door. I was thinking of removing the whole reserve tank setup as it stands now... but that'd be silly considering how well it works. I'll just repair/replace the current reserve tank and improve the wiring and fuel lines. No reason to give up the extra fuel capacity.
After figuring out how it worked I went ahead and fueled up the truck, both tanks. The reserve tank's filler tube seemed a bit "dry", as if it hadn't been used in a while. Filled it up anyway and verified that yes, the I/II switch does indeed change the tank as well as the gauge reading accordingly.
The next day I though I smelled gas and then looked under the car...
On closer inspection the skid plate and tank are NOT original, though they are secured using a nearly identical manner.
The bummer is that the tank leaks. So I pumped the gas out and into my wife's car... I sure wasn't going to let it go to waste.
I had the shop doing my baseline fluid changes go ahead and drain the last remaining amounts and they send me an amusing photo.
This got me thinking though. The crossmember underneath is clearly the original spare tire holder. And non-reserve tank cars had the spare underneath. And from reading around those trucks didn't have a key reinforcement in the rear door... and I freaked out thinking that my spare was mounted to a flimsy single door panel.
No worries... the guys who installed the tank thought of that apparently.
It's not stock reinforcement, but it's plenty stout.
I'm a bit impressed with how well the reserve tank was installed. Similar fashion to the OEM. The filler port on the side of the truck looks stock other than it's location. The two solenoids that switch both the supply and the return lines. Even the reinforced door. I was thinking of removing the whole reserve tank setup as it stands now... but that'd be silly considering how well it works. I'll just repair/replace the current reserve tank and improve the wiring and fuel lines. No reason to give up the extra fuel capacity.
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- #59
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- #60
So as much as I like the look of the 16" split steelies on this truck I wanted to go with a more conventional solid wheel approach on this truck. I'd recently come across a source for 17x6.5" steelies from Toyota Prados. They export a lot of Toyotas out of the UAE to Africa and Russia and elsewhere. And the way it's explained to me is that the Prados going to Africa frequently get their steelies removed in favor of alloy wheels. So my guy sorted me out 5 0km take-off wheels... they still had the plastic on the face. As luck would have it he also had a set of BF Goodrich KM2's in 255/75/17... also 0km take-offs from some guy who brought in a new Jeep for bigger wheels/tires.
The deal was too good to pass up...
Though I kinda miss the super-skinny look of the 7.5R17 tires, these tuck into the wheel wells just fine...
I think I'm going to have the rims painted grey... or black... I'm undecided at this point.
It's amazing how smooth the ride got after these wheels and tires went on. So much easier to balance and keep balanced.
The deal was too good to pass up...
Though I kinda miss the super-skinny look of the 7.5R17 tires, these tuck into the wheel wells just fine...
I think I'm going to have the rims painted grey... or black... I'm undecided at this point.
It's amazing how smooth the ride got after these wheels and tires went on. So much easier to balance and keep balanced.
