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- #21
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- #22
So this all started on December 31... I made an off remark to someone I know in the region and he sent me a private message about a 91 he knew of for sale. He sent me two photos and the contact of the broker in Oman.
I was so disappointed when it showed up with a different grille. I want the "TOYOTA" up front...
I had a good feeling about this one...
So I messaged the broker asking for video of the engine running, video of the cab, and more photos. Received more including these...
I sent @beno an email looking for sage wisdom to ensure I was being an informed buyer. His advice basically amounted to "buy it now!" He made it sound a lot more wiser than that though.
I leveraged several Emirati friends (shukran jazeelan my friends!) and they helped make it happen.
So now it's parked outside and my spreadsheet of parts and projects is growing leaps and bounds.
Thanks for so much help on the sub tank already guys!
I was so disappointed when it showed up with a different grille. I want the "TOYOTA" up front...
I had a good feeling about this one...
So I messaged the broker asking for video of the engine running, video of the cab, and more photos. Received more including these...
I sent @beno an email looking for sage wisdom to ensure I was being an informed buyer. His advice basically amounted to "buy it now!" He made it sound a lot more wiser than that though.
I leveraged several Emirati friends (shukran jazeelan my friends!) and they helped make it happen.
So now it's parked outside and my spreadsheet of parts and projects is growing leaps and bounds.
Thanks for so much help on the sub tank already guys!
I believe that if you’re set up has a fuel return system then you would have two switching valves. My old 2H doesn’t have a fuel return to tank.Second tank and all appurtenances are factory.
Should there be two switching valves?
Great Find! Have one thats very similar. FJ75 3F from Oman. Similar AC unit in the back as well as no Heat...
One thing I found out the bad way... Mine had the same floor boards that look to be rivet in the back. The geniuses that installed them drilled right through the floor into the front fuel tank. Luckily it was just one hole. It totally solved the fumes in the cabin issue...
Going to be installing the oem heater unit next month! Will do a build thread!
_mes
One thing I found out the bad way... Mine had the same floor boards that look to be rivet in the back. The geniuses that installed them drilled right through the floor into the front fuel tank. Luckily it was just one hole. It totally solved the fumes in the cabin issue...
Going to be installing the oem heater unit next month! Will do a build thread!
_mes
umpqua
GOLD Star
"Shoot, this is going to get pricey." Good one.
Congrats. Looks like a nice, rust free truck. Prob not a lot of ice melt in UAE I'm thinking.
That instrument cluster earlier in the thread.....reck'n that's not available in 24v.
Congrats. Looks like a nice, rust free truck. Prob not a lot of ice melt in UAE I'm thinking.
That instrument cluster earlier in the thread.....reck'n that's not available in 24v.
It needs 2 solenoid valves, One for fuel supply and one for fuel return
I think the one fuel gauge probably does 2 tanks. Tach is fed from the alternator from memory
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- #28
Thanks for this. Good to know.
Did some tear down of the cab today. I'd checked under the mats before and noticed some moisture so wanted to get those up ASAP. Here's the cab before I started.
I removed a bunch of trash and accumulated cruft from the cab. Behind the seats had some old batteries, scraps of fabric, a mostly empty brake fluid bottles, etc. I always love the oddball items people find leftover from the PO. I was mighty impressed to find two shell casings under the dash mat in mine. 223 rounds...
With the seats off and trash out it was evident that the brake fluid bottle, or some sort of oil, had been spilt.
So I yanked the mats...
All looked pretty good. I found mostly dirt sludge from whatever had split. It had made a mess of the insulation under the mats.
But I did find one area of rust just above the passenger footwell. I'll wire brush that and see just how bad it is.
Planning to clean it completely tomorrow.
Also took the spare cover off. Found out why they'd covered it. A 1993 dated spare is a bit embarrassing...
Put that spare tire on EBay and borrow a few commonly used terms from the 'MUD classified section.
1) Unicorn 2) Rare, 3) Lightly Used 4)Mint condition etc.
1) Unicorn 2) Rare, 3) Lightly Used 4)Mint condition etc.
Classic 25+ year old LCs.
They all become projects... if/ when you want them to be.
Or you do “patina worldview”//. A la @wngrog —always spend money on the mechanicals, but everything else “immaterial” can be like you are driving in the Central American jungles on a drug run to the remote airfield to deliver 700 kilos of coke. You can make due with “gaps”.
Solid.
They all become projects... if/ when you want them to be.
Or you do “patina worldview”//. A la @wngrog —always spend money on the mechanicals, but everything else “immaterial” can be like you are driving in the Central American jungles on a drug run to the remote airfield to deliver 700 kilos of coke. You can make due with “gaps”.
Solid.
How do you plan to register a gasoline-powered vehicle without emissions equipment in Phoenix?
Painting the hood to match the dash is easier than you think.
Did you find that valve switch?
That water will be coming in around the windscreen. There are some rubber plugs in the floor that can be removed until fixed. Is that moisture behind the seats as well?
I fixed the leak in mine merely by cleaning under the window seal with window in place. There was some accumulated dirt in there. I think mine went above hood depth in a muddy river crossing at some time in its life
That water will be coming in around the windscreen. There are some rubber plugs in the floor that can be removed until fixed. Is that moisture behind the seats as well?
I fixed the leak in mine merely by cleaning under the window seal with window in place. There was some accumulated dirt in there. I think mine went above hood depth in a muddy river crossing at some time in its life
- Thread starter
- #35
I was fussing with switches and trying to sort the AC this afternoon and figured out the fuel tanks. It's as you say, my one fuel gauge covers both tanks... just depends what tank I have selected.
Goal for this one is to be sharp and classic looking on the outside, tip-top mechanically, and pure use-and-abuse function on the interior. This is our new family camping/exploring truck to replace the 80... we'll be hauling our stuff and my kids are still young and subject to entering the car while still wet, sandy, or otherwise a mess.
Um... yeah... I'd actually considered this for my FJ40. I'm glad you reminded me about this issue. 1HZ swap???
In all seriousness, thanks for bringing this up. It looks like I'll be able to get "classic car" insurance for this truck so as to be exempt. This is the same thing I'll have to do with my 40.
I've got the two valve switches (the photo of the two valve switches was from my truck). So I'm good to go.
The moisture wasn't water... it doesn't rain in these parts much.
It was spilled brake fluid I believe. Whatever it was had actually caused some of the black tar sound deadener that sits in the footwell to just peel right off. Although I suppose it was water at some point that rusted the front passenger area a bit. I'll be getting a new windshield and a new seal installed.As mentioned above I sorted the fuel tanks while trying to figure out the AC.
The switch with a "I" and "II" located in the same slot as my climate controls (circled in green) is actually the fuel tank switch. When you select 1 or 2 you are running from the respective tank. When you make the selection the single fuel gauge in my cluster changes to reflect that tanks status. I've verified this when I filled up with gas this evening. Kinda funny the Roman Numerals hand painted on a switch in an Arab country.
The stock AC switch (circled in blue) controls the main AC in the console. Blows nice and cold. The AC in the rear of the truck is controlled by the little knob with the "IAMA" label. It also blows nice and cold. I may try to keep the rear AC in some way... dual AC in a Troopy sure seems a good idea.
I've got no clue what the red switches do... there are no foglights on this truck, at least not anymore. Both switches are wired in. Need to trace and figure out what.
DO NOT do an engine swap prior to importing it. If it does not have the original engine it is ineligible for import.
When you do an engine swap in Australia, you can get govt approval fairly easy if the engine is suitable, eg say 3F to 1HZ. And then the paperwork is changed showing new engine numbers etc. Is that still a problem in the US?
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Based upon the EPA rule below I would say yes it is still a problem:
3.1" Vehicles at Least 21 Years Old
A vehicle is exempted
if it has been 21 years or more since its original production year
and it is in its
original unmodified condition. Vehicles in any condition may be excluded if they
were manufactured prior to the year in which EPA's regulations for the class of vehicle took
effect. Vehicles at least 21 years old with replacement engines are not eligible for this
exemption unless they contain equivalent or newer EPA certified engines and emission control
systems. Upon entry, the importer must file an EPA Form 3520-1 with Customs and declare
code "E" on the form.
3.1" Vehicles at Least 21 Years Old
A vehicle is exempted
if it has been 21 years or more since its original production year
and it is in its
original unmodified condition. Vehicles in any condition may be excluded if they
were manufactured prior to the year in which EPA's regulations for the class of vehicle took
effect. Vehicles at least 21 years old with replacement engines are not eligible for this
exemption unless they contain equivalent or newer EPA certified engines and emission control
systems. Upon entry, the importer must file an EPA Form 3520-1 with Customs and declare
code "E" on the form.
gilmorneau
SILVER Star
Absolutely correct. You may not get caught, but why risk it?
It's OK to import a vehicle with the original petrol (gasoline) engine to the USA (i.e. it will meet all Federal NHTSA, EPA, and Customs requirements), you just won't likely be able to register it once you get it here (because it won't conform to State and Local emissions requirements) . The solution is obvious, especially if you want a diesel anyway--import it with the original petrol engine, then do your motor swap before you register it.
Does anyone know if the dual tank = one fuel gauge is a factory setup?
