Why Not Camber Plates on 2.5 - 3 Inch Lift as Opposed to Camber Bushings? (1 Viewer)

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Bludozer said:
How many projects "in the works" does that make for you? 349? In all seriousness though, your commitment to developing products for a 20+ year old truck is what makes this place so great.

Appreciate the spectacular service the other day as well (I am the guy who had to exchange the shirt.) I will be ordering a few more things within the upcoming weeks and will continue to do so as long as I have my 80 (which we all know means forever.)

Keep up the great work, you have at least one more loyal customer!
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Thanks for that! Hopefully your significant other likes the shirt I sent better ;)

Product developments? I currently stand at 72. I have 30+ that are just written on paper and have gone no further. But 72 actually in development. Granted, not all for the 80 but a good number :p
 
NLXTACY said:
Thanks for that! Hopefully your significant other likes the shirt I sent better ;)

Product developments? I currently stand at 72. I have 30+ that are just written on paper and have gone no further. But 72 actually in development. Granted, not all for the 80 but a good number :p
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Much better!

And I was being tongue-in-cheek but my God that is utterly insane! Looking forward to see how they each unravel.
 
Heckraiser said:
And if these parts don't rub at 4" lift, they shouldn't rub at 2" lift or even stock height, since the relationship of the axle/knuckles to the radius arms doesn't change with lift hight, just the radius arms to the frame.
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I see two issues. One is needlessly causing problems with bump-stop alignment.. which can make the upper stop cups rub the springs and the bump stop not sit anywhere near flat/aligned when bottoming out.

Two would be taking even more angle out of the front universal joint.. increasing the need for a DC shaft. In my case with just TJM bushings and on the low side of a 2" lift I couldn't completely get rid of my front end vibration.. with a complete driveshaft rebuild using OEM joints, high-speed balance, verifying the slip joint is in good shape. Even more caster would make this situation worse.
 
The plates have been designed for a while but I had to get my hands on a stock truck to confirm the amount of correction and the drive angles of the drive shaft . Wanted to be sure that a stock shaft would work and would have enough correction.

So designed and in the cue for manufacturing.

Would like to get 3 installed as prototypes to confirm the design.
 
NLXTACY said:
Thanks for that! Hopefully your significant other likes the shirt I sent better ;)

Product developments? I currently stand at 72. I have 30+ that are just written on paper and have gone no further. But 72 actually in development. Granted, not all for the 80 but a good number :p
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I'm sure you are living in the lap of luxury after making my disconnect! Keep the goods coming. And, x2- no poly for me!
 
NLXTACY said:
I wish :(

Please let me know how the install goes!
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Will do! It's currently down the priority list, but then again it's easily the coolest thing I have going so I will try to sneak it up.
 
landtank said:
So designed and in the cue for manufacturing.

Would like to get 3 installed as prototypes to confirm the design.
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I've got a nice clean 94 that could be used for confirmation of said prototype...not too far from Joey's either :D
 
landtank said:
anyone interested in being one of the first 3 put your name in Joey's hat.
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I've got a set of 2.5 springs and shocks in the garage that need to go in on my stock 97. I'll put my name in the hat. I'm not too far from Mr. Landtank here in Massachusetts.
 
I'll put my name in the hat. I have a pretty common 'build' so should be able to tell if it works for a large number of people!
 
If this becomes a thing, i'm in :hillbilly:
 
I'll add some basic info here in case this helps some to understand our trucks needs.

Our trucks caster changes at a rate of 1.75* for every inch the truck is lifted. The acceptable range for caster is 2-4*. So we have a target window of more that an inch in lift height.

The area where it gets dicey is at the 3"+ area. That's because it's the area where driveshaft requirements transitions from the stock shaft to the DC shaft with the DC shaft having a much tighter range for it to run properly.

Because our trucks vary greatly in ride height based on the springs used, the age of the springs and the weight of the truck with accessories and cargo, using the manufacturers advertised lift height doesn't always apply.

What I do is to use a calculation that has been very consistent in forecasting a trucks need.

Measure the distance from the center of the front hubs to the underside side of the flare and then subtract 20.5.

It doesn't tell the whole story but it's a great place to start.

EDIT: calculation was wrong!!! CORRECTED
 
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NLXTACY said:
Regardless of whatever solution you go with, OEM rubber will NEVER fail or deteriorate the way non-rubber/poly bushings or non-OEM rubber bushings do.
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Can they stand up to powder coat ovens? This one time....
 
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