Why Not Camber Plates on 2.5 - 3 Inch Lift as Opposed to Camber Bushings? (1 Viewer)

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I wouldn't PC control arms. As soon as they get a chip the rust process begins and spreads like cancer.
 
I'll add some basic info here in case this helps some to understand our trucks needs.

Our trucks caster changes at a rate of 1.75* for every inch the truck is lifted. The acceptable range for caster is 2-4*. So we have a target window of more that an inch in lift height.

The area where it gets dicey is at the 3"+ area. That's because it's the area where driveshaft requirements transitions from the stock shaft to the DC shaft with the DC shaft having a much tighter range for it to run properly.

Because our trucks vary greatly in ride height based on the springs used, the age of the springs and the weight of the truck with accessories and cargo, using the manufacturers advertised lift height doesn't always apply.

What I do is to use a calculation that has been very consistent in forecasting a trucks need.

Measure the distance from the center of the front hubs to the underside side of the flare and then subtract 21.5.

It doesn't tell the whole story but it's a great place to start.

There is one other aspect that people might not consider that should be part of the calculation and that is spring spacers (poly or metal) used to correct stinkbug. Adding a spacer changes more than just front ride height.
 
What is "rust"?
It's this nasty orange s*** they get where it rains or where they use salt on the road. Not much of a problem here or there but some folks are plagued with it. Side effects are cussing, busted knuckles and throwing tools. Should be avoided at all cost!
 
Getting into the finer elements really only comes into play when you are at or very close to the 3" threshold.

Again. The 2* caster window represents more than an inch in ride height. Since I'm measuring the front the spacers would be included in the height calculation. And a little stink bug is irrelevant outside that threshold area.
 
Getting into the finer elements really only comes into play when you are at or very close to the 3" threshold.

Again. The 2* caster window represents more than an inch in ride height. Since I'm measuring the front the spacers would be included in the height calculation. And a little stink bug is irrelevant outside that threshold area.

The reason I bring up spacers is because they seem to always be after the fact. Often times way after the fact. People do their spring lift, do their suspension upgrade, take care of the caster, get the truck aligned. Then as the Springs settle they decide that they don't like the truck's stance and go with spring spacers. Now the caster and pinion alignment has just changed again. But very few take that into consideration.
 
So what about right at 3" or a little above? :) I'm considering the Icon stage 1 3".
 
The reason I bring up spacers is because they seem to always be after the fact. Often times way after the fact. People do their spring lift, do their suspension upgrade, take care of the caster, get the truck aligned. Then as the Springs settle they decide that they don't like the truck's stance and go with spring spacers. Now the caster and pinion alignment has just changed again. But very few take that into consideration.

Very timely as this is where I currently am. OME 2.5 kit installed over a year ago with 863's in the rear, still have stock bushings and I think it's as settled as it's going to get. Stinkbug is ridiculous and I'm planning on spacers for the cure. So...What do I need to do? Plates? Bushings? DC driveshaft? (No vibes now) I hate the ass in the air stance of my truck. I'm in L.A. and have another car, so if you need a 97 to screw with to figure out your plates, I could leave it wioth you for a bit.
 
Measure the distance from the center of the front hubs to the underside side of the flare and then subtract 21.5.
Generally old tired 20 year old coils land at the 20" center hub to bottom of flare & 21.5" sounds good in stock form, but would going off of the FSM measuremen's be more accurate?
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I need to check mine again. I got just over 22" with fairly new ome heavies. I know it's a good 3+ inches over the old springs so I'm not sure where I went wrong
 
Very timely as this is where I currently am. OME 2.5 kit installed over a year ago with 863's in the rear, still have stock bushings and I think it's as settled as it's going to get. Stinkbug is ridiculous and I'm planning on spacers for the cure. So...What do I need to do? Plates? Bushings? DC driveshaft? (No vibes now) I hate the ass in the air stance of my truck. I'm in L.A. and have another car, so if you need a 97 to screw with to figure out your plates, I could leave it wioth you for a bit.

Read the post where I layout the math for calculating lift height and report back here with the answer. That will give us a base line of where the truck is. But most will run 850J Springs verses the 850 + spacer to level out the truck.
 
Generally old tired 20 year old coils land at the 20" center hub to bottom of flare & 21.5" sounds good in stock form, but would going off of the FSM measuremen's be more accurate?
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What I posted is what l
I've been using for years. There is a bit of fudging because as the amount lift increases so does the amount caster/inch. But for our purposes it's close enough and it has worked very well

@GW Nugget
EDIT: I remembered the formula incorrectly and fixed it above. I use a stock height of 20.5 not 21.5 as I posted earlier. I've changed it above.
 
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What I posted is what l
I've been using for years. There is a bit of fudging because as the amount lift increases so does the amount caster/inch. But for our purposes it's close enough and it has worked very well

Agreed. I've only done about a dozen~ish of these and with good results.
 
Awesome responses guys. I am hopefully 6 - 8 weeks away from adding the lift, so will address it then. I am now completely convinced I wont be doing the CC bushings since other great options are out there, or are about to be (and my OEM bushings only have 74k miles on them).

Thanks all - F
 
I installed a 1.5" OME lift on my buddies 80 and we just used the Slee caster plates since I didn't want to remove his stock bushings. It is his DD and he loves the way it drives. While adding extra caster might not be the best route, it is better than having no to negative caster.
 
While Joey will chastise me for this, with the OME stock height kit, I install the yellow bushings. That kit needs a little caster help and it's low enough that the bushings don't get flexed enough to cause a problem. Those kits are usually for very mild off road and camping.

Too much caster can have negative side effects as well. And just like not enough caster, it's when the weather is it's worst that the handling issues come into play.
 
Read the post where I layout the math for calculating lift height and report back here with the answer. That will give us a base line of where the truck is. But most will run 850J Springs verses the 850 + spacer to level out the truck.

Ok, 22-1/2 from the center of the front hub to the bottom of the flare minus 21.5 equals 1. I went back and double checked, the front springs are 850's and the rears are 864's. These are the springs that Cristo at Slee recommended when I bought the kit from him. As you can see, the stinkbug is just ridiculous.

IMG_20170223_170554264_HDR_zpskyeja8q2.jpg
 
Ok, 22-1/2 from the center of the front hub to the bottom of the flare minus 21.5 equals 1. I went back and double checked, the front springs are 850's and the rears are 864's. These are the springs that Cristo at Slee recommended when I bought the kit from him. As you can see, the stinkbug is just ridiculous.

IMG_20170223_170554264_HDR_zpskyeja8q2.jpg
How much extra weight are you carrying out back that he recommended 864s? That seems pretty extreme if you aren't running a loaded rear bumper and other extras.
 
How much extra weight are you carrying out back that he recommended 864s? That seems pretty extreme if you aren't running a loaded rear bumper and other extra.

I'm pretty sure that these springs wouldn't sag if I put a pallet of gold bars in the back.
 

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