bloc

Get a “carista” module to keep in the car. Not expensive, and can use your phone’s Bluetooth for diagnostics and code resets on the road. Basic free level of their app can read and reset codes. Can even program certain functions into the vehicle...

Mine were the old design with the nut-serts and they were indeed challenging to get installed with the dual-wall frame. Ultimately it worked though. This new system seems even better.

I'd suggest consulting the install documents for specifics. I haven't seen budbuilt in person but my understanding is they wrap around the frame completely. The MT setup bolts onto the outside and lower face of the frame rail, with the lower...

So is the engine revving but the transmission slipping? Or is it limiting torque/hp in reverse for some reason? I assume no other issues with power delivery in forward gears? When you say "never has had".. how many miles have you put on this...

Cool rig. Are you sure that tire carrier isn’t factory?

Just to pile on.. I have had these on my 2013 for 7 years now and I’m super happy with them.

Good plan. This doesn't sound quite like the more common timing system issues, for the record. But freeing up the mechanisms for the whole system wouldn't hurt.

Sounds about right. I had a Truestart in mine before this Interstate MTP and it didn’t take long for the electrolyte to start creeping out of it. Still worked fine but made a mess. 7-8 years is pretty common with these. But as happened to...

Perfect fit, like any true 27F will be. 2013 cruiser, but all US 200-series LC and LX from 08-22 will be the same. For the record, your vehicle came with a Japanese-made Panasonic Group 27F that is arguably a superior battery to anything...

I’m using an interstate MTP-27F in mine with great results. Have also had MTP series batteries in two other vehicles without issue. I understand their marketing will push you toward an MTX-24 as “better” but that isn’t necessarily true...

Ah, yeah. I believe the 24 is a similar height so the clamp will technically hold it down, but a 24 is significantly shorter in length than a 27, and that reduced volume ultimately means less reserve capacity. Hold out for a Group 27F it at all...

I need to get a set of these wheels.

Why choose a Group 24 when a 27F is the correct battery?

I don’t see any welds, unlike when I got pics of the front recovery point nuts. The nuts seem to be bonded to a flat plate that is lying in there. Not sure how they are affixed. I will say the bolt protrusion through the nut is significant...

I'll get a borescope picture of the area in the next few hours.

Rear shock failures, wheel failures.. Icon is seriously dropping the ball on the 200-series.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/100-series-cruisers.26/

This.

I would modify this and say it’s seeming more and more likely even mild overheating is killing engines. Which just underlines your point about cooling system mechanics 101.

You can actually interpret the mold marks on yours to confirm they are the updated material. Details per @gaijin https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/heater-hose-t-upgrade-for-my-200.1056592/post-15575271

Lower shock bolt 72 ft-lbf Sway bar link nut 35 ft-lbf Alignment shouldn't be necessary, but judge it on how it drives afterward.

Sand gets into the mechanism and can foul it. Try shaking, tapping, anything you can do to get that stuff to fall out.

There is not.

Or valley plate?

Nope, that's standard. The BBS wheels were port-installed IIRC. Personally I'd be worried about the spare mounting location damaging the BBS wheel.. both mine and a friend's 2013 have significant marks on the wheel rim from friction with the...