A local mudder cut out a few "kits" for a rear panhard bracket on his plasma table and I ended up with one of them. Similar to the Delta bracket but this one isn't completely bolt in and one edge is welded to the upper control arm bracket on the axle. There's a "safety" weld on the original panhard bracket but probably isn't necessary. I was planning to get the Delta one but this was offered to me and I happily snatched it up. Used a stock panhard with it to replace the adjustable one I've had.
Seems to be a minor improvement in handling over the adjustable panhard. I'll be honest, I was expecting a more noticeable change based on the feedback I've heard from others after getting the rear panhard leveled off. The "wiggle" that is described from the rear end of the truck that does not have a level panhard when hitting bumps was not that pronounced on my truck to begin with. I have to assume that the Slinky suspension and HD rear swaybar were controlling the back end pretty well, but this panhard bracket does seem to make the rear of the truck feel a bit more settled. So I think it's a worthwhile mod. I look forward to getting it out in the dirt and see how it behaves on some fast tracks.
Stock vs adjustable panhard
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
small difference in length
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Welded up the bracket.
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
In the truck
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Little paint
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
New OEM bolts for the frame side bracket on the top of the new axle bracket. Reused the original axle bracket to hold the lower end of the new bracket.
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Untitled by
Adam Tolman, on Flickr
There is interference with the Axle bolt and nut with the Slinky coil. One solution is to lift the frame of the truck to open up the suspension and slide the bolt in from the front with the nut on the back side. If you needed to remove it you would need to open up the suspension the same way to get it out. I chose to machine about 1/2" off the end of the bolt and about 1/8" off the nut (it's like a 1" deep nut) and put the bolt in from the back with the nut on the forward side so that it would clear the springs and I wouldn't need to open up the suspension to remove it.
One other thing, If you look closely you'll notice I made a few slight bends (by hand) to the bracket and tube that has the ABS wire so that it would pass under this bracket.
you WA DOT. 
