Irish Reiver

😂 now that you’ve read this far, I got a used tailgate and finished it nicely. The old tailgate is out for recycling. There was no fixing that!

Never use a snatch strap to pull out roots. Used a snatch strap to assist in pulling out roots because my chain was in storage. So, the large root gave way and hit the Cruiser at an unbelievable speed. Here’s what it looked like. The cruiser...

Advanced auto to the rescue. $4 a pop so got 2. Now to figure out what caused it to blow. 🙂

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/30-amp-fuse.1272341/#post-14216437

IME a Toyota dealer might have it in stock but for sure could get it in 24 hours from their local warehouse. FWIW

I was going to say it looks like the pipe that routes up to the bottom vent on the charcoal canister but I'm not convinced.

Its a mix of mismatched dimentions and the different names. My assumption is the varius names are actually different designs. I found the OEM P/N (90982-10001) so now i have something solid to search for.

What are the differences that your seeing? They look the same to me other than the writing on the fuse.

Yeah I kind of figured that after reading it a 2nd time, look up bussman fmx on Amazon

@White Sheep i tried a similar search on amazon. I see J-type, maxi fuse and a few others that look similar but not quite the same. Maybe time to look for a toyota P/N.

Try looking up "Pacific Pink Female Pal Auto Link Fuses 30a 32v".

FL = fuseable link that one sends power to all the door locks, windows, moon roof, seat motors etc... if you look in the wiring diagram power flow chart page 42-48 everything powered by that fuse is listed. I believe that is a bussman fmx fuse...

Thanks @audi2nr . I have done all the troubleshooting hence i know what is failed and (i hope) the cause. My problem is that i don't appear to know what it is called. I guessed the FL was fusible link but a search on mud or amazon turned up nada...

In the fuse box in front of the drivers knee. Called FL Power. Its rated at 30A and 32V. I can't find anything on the internet or on Mud so i am guessing it is not called what i am searching for. All the auto shops are closed here for the night...

PM me your address. I’ll send extras out. Just send them to the next guy.

You want to be super careful when using flatblades to pry the pan off. Be sure not to mar the mating surface of the block. I've used the Toyota jack against the frame rail with a block of 4x4 on the pan to spread the force. She should just pop...

1. Buy some hose 2. Buy some clamps 3. Buy some protective braidy stuff, optional? 4. Cut to length, install 5. Step back and admire your craftiness

Turns out I do have that part of the EWD.

It almost certainly doesn't matter, since it's just a continuity/no continuity switch. It looks like the sensor is labeled O1 in that wiring diagram. If you go further in that document, it should show a cross section view of the connector...

An engine hoist will make things much easier I'm certain. When you lift the engine and remove the mounts, the whole drivetrain will likely shift. I had a hell of a time trying to get the holes lined up while lowering the jack with one set of...

Spent the weekend doing Mojave Road from Laughlin NV to Barstow CA. Three generations of Toyota represented! My 80 was by far the loudest inside LOL

What model/year Land Cruiser are you working on? Got all the bolts and nuts removed? Here's a good thread describing the process (Edit: for a 1FZFE): https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-pan-arch-seal.83030/#post-989976

Change all the gaskets when you have the head off and it won't leak. Black on the block is the best. I used POR15 engine enamal on the block. and the POR15 high temp stuff on all the silver bits. All the metal work was prepped with the POR15...

Color and maybe what kind of paint. One guy said to make it brighter to see leaks.