Builds Travis’s PNW LX570 (5 Viewers)

[tbisaacs]

The last thing in my quest for ∞ fridge usage was to install an onboard lithium Noco 5amp smart charger and an external outlet. After talking to @radman and re-reading @BloggerL's build, I decide to cut a scary hole in my rear fender and pass it through the jack compartment:

And in case you are wondering, that crap on my paint is soot from the bolt creek fire in Washington that's basically doing what ever it wants because it hasn't rained in 3 months here. Anyway...

After cutting with a hole saw I de-burred and painted it, then drilled 3 smaller holes for the sheet metal screws:

She's a plug-in hybrid now. Inside the truck I kept it simple and connected right to my blue sea fuse panel which is on the right side of the shunt so that my monitor shows the incoming charge:

 

[04UZJ100]

Clear PPF on the headlights. Trust me. Recommend Xpel for scratch and UV protection.

 

[reddog90]

Second thing, new OEM headlights. My originals were trashed, way beyond polishing. New units are super expensive because the assembly includes all of the AFS servos etc. However when you see them side by side, it's all worth it:
View attachment 3136156

What a difference. I need to do this but they are just so damn expensive.

 

[tbisaacs]

Clear PPF on the headlights. Trust me. Recommend Xpel for scratch and UV protection.

I hear ya. working on finding a reasonably sized sheet. I'm not super confident in my ability to wrap such a curved shape yet though.

 

[ASurfacePro]

I hear ya. working on finding a reasonably sized sheet. I'm not super confident in my ability to wrap such a curved shape yet though.

WuWraps could take care of that for ya Truck came together nicely! Congrats!

 

[raincityrider]

@tbisaacs Look'n good!

 

[grinchy]

The kit comes with a grommet for the pass through and I just drilled a 1" hole through the dust cap and liberally siliconed it. The ballasts and igniters are double-sided taped where I could fit them, however I did learn after the fact there this is a spot on the bottom of the light assembly for a ballast. Would have been tidy but I ain't pulling them out.

any other beta on the HID install? it can all be done via the dust cap? no resealing of the clear side or oven baking required?

 

[tbisaacs]

any other beta on the HID install? it can all be done via the dust cap? no resealing of the clear side or oven baking required?

All via dust cap, you need a 7/8' to 1" hole and the grommet and connect can pass through it. No issue so far.

 

[tbisaacs]

Catching up on a few weeks worth of maintenance!

First, I repainted my Slee off-road sliders. I don’t have an amazing before and after unfortunately. But the difference is amazing. They look basically new.

The powder coat was really faded, not to mention all of the gouges and scrapes. I found a textured paint + primer that worked perfectly.

I painted them on the truck. I just removed the rockers and masked the doors. For prep I degreased with Zep, wiped and blew dry with compressed air and then wiped with IPA. 3 coats.

Next, I replaced with oil filter housing with the nicer Aluminum one from the Venza. At the time the jowett housing was out of stock.

This is a one banana job and totally worth it.

Next I added some ARB recovery points. I originally had the trail tailor ones but these will not work with the Iron Man bullbar. The ARBs are angled for side pull so I just had to notch a little corner out of the bumper bracket.

Next, I replaced my 4 year old X2 power AGM with a basic but reliable Interstate FLA:

I’ve had two intermittent no-cranks and I’m not 100% convinced that it’s the battery. However the X2 power was going on 5 years old and survived two failed alternators so it’s had a hard life.

Going to be blindly optimistic that this fixes my no start before I throw a starter at it.

Next I serviced my diffs and transfer case. I was all worked up about the front plug and it was a nothing burger. Came out but replaced with the bolt-style

The actual drama was the rear diff. The plug has been drug over a rock or ten and is so distorted that I can’t get a socket on it. So my plan is to chisel out and replace with one of the other style magnetic plugs.

Last thing is installing a blue sea single circuit battery cut off to isolate my winch.

The badland winch came with one but it was not very good. To install I used threaded inserts and M5 machine screws into the grill support. I also cut about a foot from the hot cable to the winch and then replaced everything with new tinned lugs and sheathing.

 

[kcjaz]

I bought an X2 AGM a couple years ago when I added my winch. I thought an AGM would be a good idea with the winch with a single battery. I’ve been waiting for my TrueStart lead acid to die but it just keeps going and tests 92% healthy. It’s 5 years old. So the X2 just sits on a tender in the garage.

Why do you think the FLA will be better?

Also, what does the cut off switch do for you? I know people sometimes add these but I don’t know why.

 

[grinchy]

I bought an X2 AGM a couple years ago when I added my winch. I thought an AGM would be a good idea with the winch with a single battery. I’ve been waiting for my TrueStart lead acid to die but it just keeps going and tests 92% healthy. It’s 5 years old. So the X2 just sits on a tender in the garage.

Why do you think the FLA will be better?

Also, what does the cut off switch do for you? I know people sometimes add these but I don’t know why.

Fire!

 

[kcjaz]

Fire!

What’s the scenario? A short of the heavy, high amp cable directly connected to the battery? I don’t have a kill switch for my starter. My starter isn’t mounted on my bumper though. Just trying to understand the risk.

 

[tbisaacs]

What’s the scenario? A short of the heavy, high amp cable directly connected to the battery? I don’t have a kill switch for my starter. My starter isn’t mounted on my bumper though. Just trying to understand the risk.

Yea it’s just because it’s mounted to bumper and wires, while well insulated run though rad support so just extra precaution to prevent arc in a collision. Risk if fire is low but not zero.

I went back to FLA to simplify. Our alternators really don’t put out the voltage for AGM without a diode. As I have no aux loads other than winch it made sense to go back to FLA.

 

[kcjaz]

Yea it’s just because it’s mounted to bumper and wires, while well insulated run though rad support so just extra precaution to prevent arc in a collision. Risk if fire is low but not zero.

I went back to FLA to simplify. Our alternators really don’t put out the voltage for AGM without a diode. As I have no aux loads other than winch it made sense to go back to FLA.

Thanks. I remote mounted my control box back by the fire wall on the passenger side. Power cable is run back to the firewall from the battery and along the firewall to the control box. It’s a Warn Zeon Platinum and with the control box “off “ and remote off there is no voltage to the winch.

On the AGM, I plan on adding the diode but I agree, based on my experience with my FLA, the AGM isn’t necessary for my setup. I just have already bought the AGM so I’m going to use it.

 

[TeCKis300]

I'm suspicious that your alternator issues were also a results of AGM. As they have low internal resistance compared to standard FLAs, a deeply drawn AGM would be pretty stressful to an alternator to recharge.

I've been saying it for awhile now that the electrical system is really designed around FLA. Anything else may not be the upgrade most think it is. Including the LTO batts that the other thread is chasing.

 

[DirtNap]

Plug-in hybrid, LOL!

 

[purdytj]

"two intermittent no cranks..."

We just replaced our starter. We had some hard click, no cranks intermittently. Then it happened more frequently. No codes. It would start on the second, third, or fourth button push. Our mechanic friend suggested we start with the starter and have had no issues since, about 2 months. It's a daily driver and started multiple times daily to run around town.

Ours is a 2009 with 165k miles.

 

[CharlieS]

Catching up on a few weeks worth of maintenance!

First, I repainted my Slee off-road sliders. I don’t have an amazing before and after unfortunately. But the difference is amazing. They look basically new.

View attachment 3173640

The powder coat was really faded, not to mention all of the gouges and scrapes. I found a textured paint + primer that worked perfectly.

View attachment 3173643

I painted them on the truck. I just removed the rockers and masked the doors. For prep I degreased with Zep, wiped and blew dry with compressed air and then wiped with IPA. 3 coats.

Next, I replaced with oil filter housing with the nicer Aluminum one from the Venza. At the time the jowett housing was out of stock.

View attachment 3173651

This is a one banana job and totally worth it.

Next I added some ARB recovery points. I originally had the trail tailor ones but these will not work with the Iron Man bullbar. The ARBs are angled for side pull so I just had to notch a little corner out of the bumper bracket.

View attachment 3173656

Next, I replaced my 4 year old X2 power AGM with a basic but reliable Interstate FLA:

View attachment 3173652

I’ve had two intermittent no-cranks and I’m not 100% convinced that it’s the battery. However the X2 power was going on 5 years old and survived two failed alternators so it’s had a hard life.

Going to be blindly optimistic that this fixes my no start before I throw a starter at it.

Next I serviced my diffs and transfer case. I was all worked up about the front plug and it was a nothing burger. Came out but replaced with the bolt-style

View attachment 3173654

The actual drama was the rear diff. The plug has been drug over a rock or ten and is so distorted that I can’t get a socket on it. So my plan is to chisel out and replace with one of the other style magnetic plugs.

Last thing is installing a blue sea single circuit battery cut off to isolate my winch.

View attachment 3173655

The badland winch came with one but it was not very good. To install I used threaded inserts and M5 machine screws into the grill support. I also cut about a foot from the hot cable to the winch and then replaced everything with new tinned lugs and sheathing.

Please friends, cover those positive terminals on your wiring additions. I am not joking when I say that I have inadvertently turned a wrench into an impromptu welder. Silicon boots, molded covers, rubber caps, a scrap of inner tube, shrink wrap - anything to prevent inadvertent contact.

 

[AnyMal]

Please friends, cover those positive terminals on your wiring additions. I am not joking when I say that I have inadvertently turned a wrench into an impromptu welder. Silicon boots, molded covers, rubber caps, a scrap of inner tube, shrink wrap - anything to prevent inadvertent contact.

Im in that same boat... On the LX though the air dam guide covers both terminals, however, my super s***ty home made "temp" battery leads need to be replaced.
Cant justify the hundreds of $ slee wants. Plust 75$ for caps! LOL

Any good recommendations? Ive ran this for far too long and had planned to replace them but got lazy.
And you are spot on, its definitely not safe or practical. Specially if the battery is not sealed.

If anyone has a good kit to recommend, preferably with a neg inline disconnect that would be great if shared.

 

[Tex68w]

I'd plop down the cash for the Slee/SDHQ battery terminals.