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I do sincerely apologize for the lack of instructions! It is something we are working on and hope to have some revisions soon. That reinforcement on the cross member is an odd one, it is on the older ones but not all of them, out of the 100s of bumpers sold we have only seen 3 this way not including yours. That being said we definitely need to make a note of this when we do the new installation instructions. I know it doesn’t help your experience with the process but we are working hard to streamline the entire process, from ordering to install. We do feel we have the best products out and understand we need the entire process to match the product quality!
We finally launched the new website yesterday which will certainly help with the ordering. Again we truly appreciate your support and feedback and are working to address our shortcomings! I do hope once the installation frustrations subside you will love the bumper.
@radman has done a great job at helping a lot of folks out and we truly appreciate that as well!
We finally launched the new website yesterday which will certainly help with the ordering. Again we truly appreciate your support and feedback and are working to address our shortcomings! I do hope once the installation frustrations subside you will love the bumper.
@radman has done a great job at helping a lot of folks out and we truly appreciate that as well!
- Thread starter
- #323
Looks great man!
- Thread starter
- #325
Thank you!!
- Thread starter
- #326
Lots more fiddlin’ on the Dissent bumper this weekend:
Camera relocation is pretty straightforward and there are a couple of ways you can do it. I initially consider the method that Victory 4x4 recommends: pull the rear interior panels, drop back of headliner, and run relocation wires through hatch and out by the jack. This would have required me to partially remove my drawers in order to access the passthrough under the jack. So instead I followed @radman and just ran the new wiring under the weather stripping and tucked up in the headliner and under interior panels. Dissent shipped with a block off plate, some wire, and a bracket that installs on the bumper. All of this was straightfoward but was not an out of the box fit. Initially the harness of the camera would protrude too much for the protective cover to fit:
The angle of the mount can be bent quite easily which improved the fitment but I still ended up shaving off 1/4" of material with a cut off wheel. Oh and the wholes weren't tapped but easy fix:
Okay - a little bit of hilarity ensued with this. When splicing the camera wires I momentarily disconnected what apparently is a shared harness with the exterior unlock pad. I got the whole interior put back together and shut the hatch and was panicked that it would no longer open. The interior power open would not work either. So I crawled inside in the dark and was able to open it via the manual release under the plastic.
Thankfully on MUD, some other poor schmuck has also had this issue. It turns out, if the lock loses power while open, it doesn't know what state to initialize to so it doesn't do anything. This morning I disconnected the batter and all was right with the world.
Plate relocation next. Initially I wasn't going to do this because you can offset the spare enough to unblock the plate - however for me I didn't like the spare sticking out so far. It also makes the hi-lift mount really hard to fit. I didn't take any photos in process - but this was super easy. Ben ships the bumper with an LED light and I simply tapped ground + brown wire on the road vision lights. I should have done this initially - oh well.
And finally -parking sensors. I was very disappointing with my initial attempt at enlarging the holes in the bumper and making the included but too small grommets fit. The honestly looked terrible. So my second attempt was to reuse the OEM clips.
The inner and outer sensors are different styles—the inner ones are oblong and the outer ones are symmetrical. I was able to shave these down to fit inside of the enlarged holes I made in the bumper but still left enough material for a snug fit, and they are much much better:
Here's pretty much her final form:
At this point I'm considering this bumper wrapped for now. There are still a couple of fiddly things like swapping sides on the lights, getting turn down welded on the exhaust, and my parking sensor harness is apparently inop — but I'm going to take a long break from tinkering with this and spend some time enjoying it instead.
- Relocate camera
- Relocate plate
- Find a better mounting solution for the parking sensors
Camera relocation is pretty straightforward and there are a couple of ways you can do it. I initially consider the method that Victory 4x4 recommends: pull the rear interior panels, drop back of headliner, and run relocation wires through hatch and out by the jack. This would have required me to partially remove my drawers in order to access the passthrough under the jack. So instead I followed @radman and just ran the new wiring under the weather stripping and tucked up in the headliner and under interior panels. Dissent shipped with a block off plate, some wire, and a bracket that installs on the bumper. All of this was straightfoward but was not an out of the box fit. Initially the harness of the camera would protrude too much for the protective cover to fit:
The angle of the mount can be bent quite easily which improved the fitment but I still ended up shaving off 1/4" of material with a cut off wheel. Oh and the wholes weren't tapped but easy fix:
Okay - a little bit of hilarity ensued with this. When splicing the camera wires I momentarily disconnected what apparently is a shared harness with the exterior unlock pad. I got the whole interior put back together and shut the hatch and was panicked that it would no longer open. The interior power open would not work either. So I crawled inside in the dark and was able to open it via the manual release under the plastic.
Thankfully on MUD, some other poor schmuck has also had this issue. It turns out, if the lock loses power while open, it doesn't know what state to initialize to so it doesn't do anything. This morning I disconnected the batter and all was right with the world.
Plate relocation next. Initially I wasn't going to do this because you can offset the spare enough to unblock the plate - however for me I didn't like the spare sticking out so far. It also makes the hi-lift mount really hard to fit. I didn't take any photos in process - but this was super easy. Ben ships the bumper with an LED light and I simply tapped ground + brown wire on the road vision lights. I should have done this initially - oh well.
And finally -parking sensors. I was very disappointing with my initial attempt at enlarging the holes in the bumper and making the included but too small grommets fit. The honestly looked terrible. So my second attempt was to reuse the OEM clips.
The inner and outer sensors are different styles—the inner ones are oblong and the outer ones are symmetrical. I was able to shave these down to fit inside of the enlarged holes I made in the bumper but still left enough material for a snug fit, and they are much much better:
Here's pretty much her final form:
At this point I'm considering this bumper wrapped for now. There are still a couple of fiddly things like swapping sides on the lights, getting turn down welded on the exhaust, and my parking sensor harness is apparently inop — but I'm going to take a long break from tinkering with this and spend some time enjoying it instead.
- Thread starter
- #327
Sought professional help in cleaning up my hack job resonator delete:
I also got my murder jack fitted:
I used a simple jam nut to give me a little more space between the jack and tire:
This isn’t hard but it is fiddly getting it right the first time. The tire holder goes up and down and in and out and the jack mount itself also moves.
What I found best was to keep tire mounted but loosen the pivot nuts and fit the jack - and then adjust both at the same time. Once you get it in the right spot you hold tire with one hand and start tightening with the other.
Also don’t mind the dead mum sitting there
I also got my murder jack fitted:
I used a simple jam nut to give me a little more space between the jack and tire:
This isn’t hard but it is fiddly getting it right the first time. The tire holder goes up and down and in and out and the jack mount itself also moves.
What I found best was to keep tire mounted but loosen the pivot nuts and fit the jack - and then adjust both at the same time. Once you get it in the right spot you hold tire with one hand and start tightening with the other.
Also don’t mind the dead mum sitting there
LCT
SILVER Star
What jack is that?Sought professional help in cleaning up my hack job resonator delete:
View attachment 2902425
I also got my murder jack fitted:
View attachment 2902426
I used a simple jam nut to give me a little more space between the jack and tire:
View attachment 2902427
View attachment 2902428
This isn’t hard but it is fiddly getting it right the first time. The tire holder goes up and down and in and out and the jack mount itself also moves.
What I found best was to keep tire mounted but loosen the pivot nuts and fit the jack - and then adjust both at the same time. Once you get it in the right spot you hold tire with one hand and start tightening with the other.
Also don’t mind the dead mum sitting there
kcjaz
SILVER Star
Its been great that you are a head of me on this, thanks for the detailed posts! The variations on the OEM parts does add a bit of adventure in the install. My parking sensors were not bad at all. All 4 were the same and a 7/8" hole was perfect for all 4 which happens to be the the max diameter of my small step bit. I did have to lube the rubber grommets with silicon and its a bit tight and fiddly but wasn't too bad.
raincityrider
Go'n Fast and Take'n Chances Since the 70's
Who did the tail pipe for you I had mine done and Im not stoked on it.Sought professional help in cleaning up my hack job resonator delete:
View attachment 2902425
I also got my murder jack fitted:
View attachment 2902426
I used a simple jam nut to give me a little more space between the jack and tire:
View attachment 2902427
View attachment 2902428
This isn’t hard but it is fiddly getting it right the first time. The tire holder goes up and down and in and out and the jack mount itself also moves.
What I found best was to keep tire mounted but loosen the pivot nuts and fit the jack - and then adjust both at the same time. Once you get it in the right spot you hold tire with one hand and start tightening with the other.
Also don’t mind the dead mum sitting there
- Thread starter
- #333
Bucky's in Renton. It was cheap - can't complain.
This is awesome info. Can you please post some closer pictures of how the high lift jack mounted?
I am trying to fit mine as well. TIA
I am trying to fit mine as well. TIA
- Thread starter
- #335
I only have the two above. What are ya looking for?
Just how the bracket attach on to tire carrier.
- Thread starter
- #337
Oh, you can’t mess it up. It uses the two bolts for the tire mount and one lower bolt to adjust the angle.
More photos from this thread
Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX)
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks for the honest write ups, cool to see a fairly local rig.
- Thread starter
- #339
Thanks! Appreciate it!
- Thread starter
- #340
Added a 5# cylinder and mount to the back of my accessory panel today. The dissent panel makes this incredibly easy:
I really want one of the aluminum 6# worthington cylinders but they are unobtaneum right now. This will have to do for the season.
I really want one of the aluminum 6# worthington cylinders but they are unobtaneum right now. This will have to do for the season.
