Builds "The Rook" - (re)Build Thread - 2017 LX 570 (2 Viewers)

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no quema cuh
Oct 15, 2019
Im back from my 6 month forum hiatus and think its finally time for this thread.
This is my second LX since the 470, but the first I've modded.
I also "grew up" in an LX 470 with many days cramped in the third row as a child with our closest family friends (their truck).

Im finally putting together a build thread after 2.5 years of ownership since I've gotten to know this truck like the back of my hand now and "earned" a soapbox so to speak.
I will be airing complaints, but please dont take it personally. I do love this platform, despite some obvious shortcomings that have to be addressed.
I do not offroad this truck, but plan to. Ranch driving is the furthest its been from pavement. Think of me more as a range rover demographic.
Texas while very large, is sparse with public land and I've had health and life events get in the way of things.
Soon though, as warranty expires and my newness years off, i will beat it up a bit.
The intent is more of over-lander, cross country road tripper, apocalypse survival, and off road S-Class.
Add to that hauling furniture. Thats the most towing It will see.

I aim to keep things clean, clean lines, respect to engineering, no goofy looking mods and a more stock+ look.

Also, major shoutout to @Itsky for the name inspiration. I was at a total loss on what to name it. Thank you buddy!

How It all started:
Chasing the factory lean that is "within spec".
Purchased CPO with 48k for $62,000. Sold the trash screens for $2k a piece. No one wanted the third row seats.
Total in $58k. Useless factory warranty through 10/2023. Plan is to never sell.

(if formatting scales weird, sorry, I'm on desktop, trying to make images somewhat small and I'm limited to 5)

Screen Shot 2022-11-23 at 9.59.20 AM.png

Still have my old 470 plate BTW, but i don't believe its transferable in Texas. Willing to give it to a worthy 100 if you can figure it out.
Im running basic plates now, but TX just released a grey / silver and black Star plate i might switch to.

When i pulled off the lot night of the 31st, the rotors were "warped" badly on the way home to Austin.
Little did I know that this would come back to haunt me, and is recurrent on every single LC, LX and Tundra.
Took the truck back to San Antonio for dealer Toyota rotors and pads that lasted all of 20K miles (way way more on that later) and got the car back like this:

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After this incident, free $400 interior detail at my local shop of choice ( i got the most expensive one i could find).
Free credit card key, free all matching grey all weather mats front and rear and cargo, free premium leather cargo net in matching grey.
All personally delivered to my door by the salesman that told me he couldnt find my drivers floor mat and was lying through his teeth until they magically "found" it.
Foreshadowing a bit... This is not the only dealer horror story to come.

The best part of that brake job that got grease all over the beige interior? When i pulled everything apart recently and did the brakes, not any grease to be found anywhere. LOL.

Lots more to come. Thanks for reading.
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Reserved, lean correction.
Reserved, wheel / tire.

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Reserved, tire again.
Reserved, 60k baseline PM.
Reserved, lift.
Reserved, lift correction 1.
Reserved, interior outfitting.

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Reserved, brakes.
Reserved, lift correction 2.
Installing the Westcott Lift Kit:

On this nice 80 degree december day in Texas. Pouring sweat...

Took a quick before pic yesterday as i realized i dont have many photos as it is now, truck is off obviously parked so it rides a bit higher when pressurized.
Specially in the rear.

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Step 1: Slam it.

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Step 2, lug nuts loosened then and jack:

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Step 3: Always top up AHC after any bleeding

This is how i do it, and it couldnt be any easier from all the various methods ive tried. Just a long ass funnel jammed into the inlet tube, sealed with elec tape to avoid leaks. I can do it wheels on and off.

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Now for the fun stuff:

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Full droop measurement hub flange to fender as perpendicular as possible, right at 23".

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And right around 13" to the ground. These are obviously only reference values for the next step.

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Plenty of room to the coils with these awesome arms:

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Full droop CV 👼.
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And flattest part of the bar.
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Will be measuring for any additional droop shortly, but may have to wait.

Currently taking out the brand new UCA's spindle bolt and its not budging. Soaking it since i dont want to hammer on my nice new arms.
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Reserved, sub-tank.
My humble suggestion is drive it for 6 months before you do anything. The lx570 ahc is worlds better than the 470, and I liked my 470. First mod should be wheels and tires. Sweeeet ride.

pinion angle correction and moar lift.


See my steering wobble thread for more information.
My humble suggestion is drive it for 6 months before you do anything. The lx570 ahc is worlds better than the 470, and I liked my 470. First mod should be wheels and tires. Sweeeet ride.

Thanks brother,
I absolutely loved my 470 fully stock, rust made us part ways, i used to live in NY…

Half of the things here have already been done though, just need to share my thoughts and write it all up at some point. 2.5 years of ownership so far in the 570.
Reserved and Bump.
Another day another fail...

Ball joint press tool popped the uppers with minimal fuss. Prime overnight FTW.
I was not expecting another full upper and lower arm disassembly but with my additional stud length, there was no way to remove the strut without the UCA up and out of the way to swing it out. The way our the CV and tie rod sits, we cant really slip it out any other way but up or down, and i dont have any room down as im working on the floor. Now with the clearance i needed, coil-overs are out.

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Just for reference, this was overall length to top plate, scale looks off for some reason.. Must be the angle. Or my tape collapsed on me sometime without me noticing.
I can remeasure the other one tomorrow.

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As discussed with @MTKID in our reverse tech support text, where i asked him stuff this time LOL, these are the wear marks towards the top of the ram where the additional travel will be further robbed from. Its about an inch of safety room before over compression.
Otherwise it looks literally brand new. Keep that fluid fresh...

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Quick and easy flange knockout and replaced with the pre-load collar.

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Now is where disaster struck...
My "safe' style compressor violently slipped the shock during my stress testing. Very lucky to have no injury or damage done, this was scary though.
I realized just how much more compression was needed here beyond a simple top hat replacement like I had done before. In this setup, there was not enough room to thread the top bolt. When i repositioned the clamps further apart to begin in the second attempt, there was too much bowing of the coil and it released halfway through compression. ALWAYS KEEP THESE POINTED AWAY FROM YOU. If i had not positioned this toward the ground and away from me, i would have taken a major hit.

I have ordered 2 different locking jaw twin style compressors and they are arriving tomorrow.
This is definitely not for the faint hearted and definitely proceed with major caution if you are thinking of DIY.

The style you see here im using is just garbage. The safety lip keeping the shock in the coil rings are so small they did nothing to prevent the slip.

Emotional support highly welcomed, LOL.

More to come.
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