Builds TeCKis300 LX570 "FLX" Build

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Let me know if you guys get together. I'm always up for shenanigans.
 
TeCKis300 said:
Let me know if you guys get together. I'm always up for shenanigans.
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Roger, will do

Will likely try to intercept him enroute

My interest in actually going to Glamis is 0%

😜
 
It's the little things.

Upgraded the 'ol LED Maglite to a modern era NEBO Slyde King 2k. Trick little flashlight with sidelight and magnetic base. Thank you Santa!

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Maglite now on passenger duty.

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dubyahard said:
Do you just use a short self-tapping screw or something else to secure the mount to the floor?
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Yup. It's a dense styrofoam underneath. Just a short 3/8" wood type screw will hold nicely. Don't use a drill as the carpet will get all caught in the bit. Pierce it with an awl to help the screw bite.
 
TeCKis300 said:
Updated 9/24/2024 - Latest build on 37s



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Requisite glamour shots

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Long time in coming. A build thread for my ‘09 LX570. Hereby known as FLX. Yes, some mild flexing from an understated Lexus. And playing on the F-LX name and what an LX-F could be.

A core goal with the build is to have FLX-ibility. To not build with a single purpose in mind. It’s not a rock crawler, not an dedicated off-roader, not a heavy hauler, and not an overland camper. Yet it can do all those things without spoiling day to day usability as Lexus delivered it. Double date night, minivan duty for 8, tow pig, or heavy hauling; none of that has been compromised in this build. Expanding its capability envelope, beyond stock, without compromising its core virtues would describe my build well.

I would like to think It touches on some of Lexus F sensibilities and philosophies, built with some OEM considerations for engineering and balance. To perhaps imagine what a more aggressive factory performance effort could be if such a thing existed for the 200-series. As a trained and practicing engineer, my profession is about making considered design decisions for trade space, executing, and delivering aircraft designs capable of meeting production requirements. The goal with FLX is modify to expand capabilities in off-road angles and clearance (~6" total lift), increasing capacities (2,000lb payload), driving range (500 miles), minimize impacts to ride, efficiency, and handling, while returning parameters back to stock for things like suspension geometry, gearing, brakes. To that end, I prefer to use OEM parts where possible. As much as I like to modify cars, and this certainly isn’t my first rodeo, I find factory parts are far and away more engineered and reliable than aftermarket stuff. Components that go through real analysis, testing, and validation.

One major consideration to the build is to maximize payload and towing capacity. So not adding too much weight was a big factor. Weight is the great equalizer which compromises so many things including every performance measure, capability, and durability. The build has to continue to tow an 8,000lb travel trailer, or haul 2,000lb payloads. So maintaining payload for utility and performance has been paramount.

This build thread is a bit different as it’s a collection of build topics across different threads, and a retrospective look as many of the upgrades have long been done. Hopefully this also answers questions I often get about my build over PM, as this catalogs and links to various more in depth upgrade threads.

FLX has been built over several phases but is close to its final form now. More build philosophy in post #3 below, but let's first get right to the build list.

Tires​


Suspension​

​

Transmission​


Brakes​


Gearing​


Power​


Fuel​

​

Armor / Recovery​


Electronics​


Lighting​


Roof Rack​


Interior​


Camping​


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Did you have to clearance the lips of the rear fenders? Or do the 12.50’s double tuck even with an effective 28 offset?
 
Latest tweak. Even as I have a aux/house LiFePO4 battery to run the fridge, I still dragged my Goal Zero Yeti every now and then for its 120V inverter function. I avoided installing an inverter as they were all rather large and heavy.

No more. Came across this compact 1000W Inverter measuring 8.3 x 5.1 x 2.7. Just what I needed. I can't vouch for it yet but inverters are commodity these days and at $75, really can't go wrong.

Enjoying the space savings and it fits in my loadout nicely.

Previous
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New
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TeCKis300 said:
Latest tweak. Even as I have a aux/house LiFePO4 battery to run the fridge, I still dragged my Goal Zero Yeti every now and then for its 120V inverter function. I avoided installing an inverter as they were all rather large and heavy.

No more. Came across this compact 1000W Inverter measuring 8.3 x 5.1 x 2.7. Just what I needed. I can't vouch for it yet but inverters are commodity these days and at $75, really can't go wrong.

Enjoying the space savings and it fits in my loadout nicely.

Previous
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New
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Nice find. I have been on the hunt for a compact pure sine inverter like this one. Do you know if the 1000 watt is its peak rating or can it duty cycle (for a lack of a better term) at the full 1000 watts?
 
TeCKis300 said:
Latest tweak. Even as I have a aux/house LiFePO4 battery to run the fridge, I still dragged my Goal Zero Yeti every now and then for its 120V inverter function. I avoided installing an inverter as they were all rather large and heavy.

No more. Came across this compact 1000W Inverter measuring 8.3 x 5.1 x 2.7. Just what I needed. I can't vouch for it yet but inverters are commodity these days and at $75, really can't go wrong.

Enjoying the space savings and it fits in my loadout nicely.

Previous
View attachment 3851617

New
View attachment 3851619
View attachment 3851618
Click to expand...
Nice find. I have been on the hunt for a compact pure sine inverter like this one. Do you know if the 1000 watt is its peak rating or can it duty cycle (for a lack of a better term) at the full 1000 watts?
 
TLC2013 said:
Nice find. I have been on the hunt for a compact pure sine inverter like this one. Do you know if the 1000 watt is its peak rating or can it duty cycle (for a lack of a better term) at the full 1000 watts?
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Can't vouch for it's full rating yet as I'm waiting for a larger fuse to come in. I'm hoping support a 800W k-cup coffee brewer and 600W kettle. Standby.
 
TLC2013 said:
Nice find. I have been on the hunt for a compact pure sine inverter like this one. Do you know if the 1000 watt is its peak rating or can it duty cycle (for a lack of a better term) at the full 1000 watts?
Click to expand...

Got a 100A fuse in place. Measured about 7W standby draw.

I was able to brew coffee with an 800W k-cup brewer. The smart cooling fan turns on as expected. Supported this on a single 100Ah LiFePO4 just fine. The output display is helpful to see just how much load there is, input voltage, and output voltage.

I did try a bit more to prob its limits with a dryer and heat gun. It definitely doesn't like motor loads when approaching 700W+. Gives an E1 error or output short, which is not exactly unexpected as these inductive loads creates known complications for inverters. With heater loads, I could pull a steady 800W. I did try going over and it would trip an E4 over power limit error which is good.

With each error, it turns off the output, displays the error code, and beeps. The output will come back online after a few seconds with the load removed. I couldn't get a combination of loads to see 900W but looks like it's working as expected for what I need.
 
tbisaacs said:
If you are considering other inverters my Renogy 1000w happily puts out 1.1kw to my gooseneck kettle for coffee.
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Definitely lots of great ones out there including Renogy gear that I have in my camper. Main tradespace for this one was size and a display. I've been holding off on an inverter because of size.

It's hard to convey, but the volumetric size of the Renogy is 289 cu in (12.9 x 6.8 x 3.3). The one above is less than half at 114 cu in (8.3 x 5.1 x 2.7), so it's tiny.

I'd bet the Renogy is more robust though.
 
TeCKis300 said:
I was able to brew coffee with an 800W k-cup brewer. The smart cooling fan turns on as expected. Supported this on a single 100Ah LiFePO4 just fine. The output display is helpful to see just how much load there is, input voltage, and output voltage.
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tbisaacs said:
If you are considering other inverters my Renogy 1000w happily puts out 1.1kw to my gooseneck kettle for coffee.
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What kind of current draw down are you seeing? 800W @ 12V is 66A? Running for 5 min for a cup? So 5.5Ah? Maybe a bit more allowing for loss in the inverter?
 
OregonLC said:
What kind of current draw down are you seeing? 800W @ 12V is 66A? Running for 5 min for a cup? So 5.5Ah? Maybe a bit more allowing for loss in the inverter?
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Yup, that's in the ballpark.

~12.8V @ 60A. It only peaks while boiling a 12oz cup of water which takes about <2 min. The rest is at a low wattage to pump water through the k-cup. Probably closer to 3.5Ah.
 
TeCKis300 said:
~12.8V @ 60A. It only peaks while boiling a 12oz cup of water which takes about <2 min. The rest is at a low wattage to pump water through the k-cup. Probably closer to 3.5Ah.
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3.5% of battery isn't bad at all for the convenience.
 
OregonLC said:
3.5% of battery isn't bad at all for the convenience.
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Yup, a hot cup of joe at any corner.

I should probably stop blah blah, but these are my other favorite cheats.

A 600W collapsible hot water kettle. For easy backpacking pouch meals, ramen, boiled eggs, blah blah blah...


Hot water from the kettle turns into a warm shower with this pressurized spray bottle.

 
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