DIY Tundra Brakes (BBK) (3 Viewers)

[TeCKis300]

Time for bigger tires and with that, need a big brake kit (BBK). Thanks to the pioneers @TexAZ, @bjowett, and others before me, it's been known that upsized Tundra front brakes, rotor and caliper, largely bolt in. Here's my attempt to simplify the install for others that may want to tackle this. You know, for them big ol 34" or 35" tires, and perhaps a heavy build. I've weighed my vehicle with trailer at a heavy 14,920lbs, which exceed the factory gross combined weight rating (GCWR). Only way I can justify going to larger tires, is to have safe braking to match.

Note this is focused on pre-2016 200-series, as the later model years already got bigger brakes. Later model year calipers are not a drop in to the early years as the mounting and bolt size changed. (EDIT: Alternate strategy, it is now possible to fit-up a 2016 caliper by drilling out the knuckles for larger bolts)

I rate this as a 2 banana job, with the most difficult part being a custom brake line retainer.

Teaser

Tundra components left, 200-series right

Dimensional differences: 200-series, Tundra
- Rotor diameter: 340mm, 354mm
- Rotor thickness: 32mm, 32mm
- Caliper depth: 170mm, 170mm
- Caliper height: 267mm, 267mm
- Caliper leading piston: 47.4mm, 47.4mm
- Caliper trailing piston: 47.4mm, 47.4mm
- Flex brake line length from suspension bracket to chassis: 10.6", 12.25"
- Brake pad: dimensionally same*
*OEM specified different brake pad part numbers between the 200-series and Tundra. Aftermarket pads spec the same part numbers to fit LC, LX, Tundra, Sequoia. I was able to drop my recently upgraded Stoptech Street Performance pads into the Tundra calipers

 

[TeCKis300]

Parts:
1) Brake calipers from second gen Tundra or Sequoia. I don't believe their brakes changed at all through even the current 2020 modes, though I haven't verified. Mine were used from a 2014 Tundra with 25k miles. These can be found dirt cheap from many sources. Re-manufactured, car part recyclers, car part retailers, Ebay, etc.
2) Brake rotor from a Tundra or Sequoia. As a previous track enthusiast, my personal preference is OEM. Anything else in the aftermarket is of questionable metallurgy or quality control. Except for the top tier brands which won't be a better value.
- OEM Brake Rotors left/right - 43512-0C020
3) Brake pad of your choice. Or re-use current pads if there's a lot of life left. Or aftermarket, which specified same pad for LC, LX, Tundra, Sequoia. I personally like upgraded street pads like Hawk HPS, Stoptech Street Performance, or TRD.
4) Hard brake line from caliper to suspension bracket
- passenger side: 473160C091
- driver side: 473170C031
5) Brake line from bracket to chassis
- Stoptech stainless brake line kit: 950.44023
- OEM: 90947-A2016
6) DIY line retension bracket (**more info in install below)
7) Brake fluid

8) Optional - Tundra brake shield though I found gentle massaging of the 200-series one to be perfectly viable.
Worthwhile to link to prior art on this install that details how to swap the brake shield which I didn't bother with. Takes this up to a 3-4 banana job.

STOP, collaborate and listen.....Tundra brake swap

First I would like to thank Brian Jowett (@bjowett ) for figuring out that this is possible and providing some of the parts at a better cost than available anywhere else. Second I want to thank Camelback Toyota and their parts department. They have gone above and beyond looking over parts...

forum.ih8mud.com

I'm easily under $400 all said and done, which is dirt cheap for a legitimate brake upgrade. Barely more than a standard full up brake job.

Notes:
- I choose to simplify and streamline the install with minimal parts/effort by not changing the splash shield. As it is thin stamped steel, it's easily bent for the bit more clearance the larger rotor takes
- Tundra flexible line from suspension bracket to chassis is 1.6" longer, which can be expected as the Tundra suspension arms are about 1.5" wider. This works well here for either Tundra suspension swap, or stock, or extended down travel with OEM shock spacer
- The Tundra brake line setup is different (refer to below picture). The stock rubber brake line on the 200-series is a single piece, with a banjo fitting at the caliper, and retention bracket at the suspension upright. The Tundra setup requires a hardline at the caliper using a standard double flare connection. This is mated to the flexible brake line at the suspension bracket. A retention mechanism needs to be devised to secure the different line type. Potentially, there is a Tundra bracket that can be used, but this has not been identified

Tundra setup left, 200-series right

 

[TeCKis300]

Installation

Remove stock brake components
1) Remove brake line bracket
- 2x 12mm bolts, 1x 12mm nut: remove ABS bracket via nut, remove brake line retainer, remove bracket
2) Remove caliper
- Remove 2x 17mm bolts holding caliper at backside of spindle. Leave hydraulic line in place for the moment so as not to loose too much fluid. Hang caliper off to the side with bungee
3) Remove rotor
- Tip: Use two threaded M6 bolt holes with spare M6 bolts to push rotor off

Install Tundra components
1) Install rotor
- Clean mounting surface. Mount rotor in place temporarily with wheel nuts
- Bend back brake shield to add clearance against rotor. Notable places are top and bottom edges. No need to cut any material as it all fits nicely.

2) Install caliper
3) Mock Tundra hardline in place
- Put brake line retainer in place
- Massage hardline to get the right angles at the mounting bracket
4) Mock and fabricate flexible brake line hold down bracket
**This is the toughest part. Many ways to do this, including just safety wiring it in place. Or thin gauge steel to clamp in place. Or bolt in a standard brake retainer like this using nut on bracket a standoff. I like aluminum as it's relatively soft and easy to work with common tools but it's probably not the easiest way for most.
a) Using 1" x 1/4" aluminum stock, fabricate a retainer as picture below
b) I used a stepped sheet metal bit to crate a tapered seat that holds the flex brake line end in place
5) Torque hardline and flex line in place
6) Load caliper with brake pads and retention hardware
7) Break hydraulic line seal and remove stock caliper
8) Install Tundra brake line
9) Bleed and enjoy

Fabricated brake line retainer

 

[bemerritt]

Thanks for documenting this. Will definitely be considering this for my 2015.

 

[04UZJ100]

Interested to hear your perspective. They don’t appear much larger from your picture. Going with Falkens again?

 

[TeCKis300]

Interested to hear your perspective. They don’t appear much larger from your picture. Going with Falkens again?

Added to, and still completing the write-up above. Yes, it's an incremental size upgrade with only major dimension changed being the rotor diameter that is 354mm to 340mm stock. A bit more than 1/2" larger diameter which is a meaningful upgrade. Looks small in writing but it's a good increase with a chunk more mass for more thermal capacity. Same thickness. The fins are more defined on the Tundra rotor which, along with the larger diameter, should provide meaningfully more airflow and cooling performance.

Bedded the brakes in. I have a several mile 7% grade near my home. First impressions - this is a substantial upgrade! More bite, and linearity, easily going into lockup/ABS on demand. I have 33" tires and the brakes, while improved with upgraded compound pads, did feel under sized / under leveraged. It did stop well, but with more pedal pressure than usual. No more with this upgrade, it feels on point, better than I recall when stock with stock tire size (prob also thx to the upgraded friction pads). This absolutely gives me the confidence to go up in tire size, while maintaining sufficient brake performance.

I'm on the fence with tires between Falkens and the new Toyo AT3s. That's high praise for the Falkens as I know I will be thoroughly satisfied with them as they continue to impress. They are a incrementally more aggressive tire than the AT3s from my research, without giving up almost anything in manners. Funny that the AT3s are actually cheaper in 35x12.5 size. From professional reviewers, they are both top of the class with respect to noise, with perhaps the slightest advantage to the AT3s. Yet the Falkens ride incrementally better.

 

[Eighteen11R]

Could these Tundra parts also be adapted to the 100 series?

 

[bloc]

Parts:
1) Brake calipers from Tundra or Sequoia. I don't believe their brakes changed at all through even the current 2020 modes, though I haven't verified. Mine were used from a 2014 Tundra with 25k miles. These can be found dirt cheap from many sources. Re-manufactured, car part recyclers, car part retailers, Ebay, etc.
2) Brake rotor from a Tundra or Sequoia. As a previous track enthusiast, my personal preference is OEM. Anything else in the aftermarket is of questionable metallurgy or quality control. Except for the top tier brands which won't be a better value.
- OEM Brake Rotors left/right - 43512-0C020
3) Brake pad of your choice. Or re-use current pads if there's a lot of life left. Or aftermarket, which specified same pad for LC, LX, Tundra, Sequoia. I personally like upgraded street pads like Hawk HPS, Stoptech Street Performance, or TRD.
4) Hard brake line from caliper to suspension bracket
- left hardline: 47314-35330
- right hardline: 47316-35250
5) Brake line from bracket to chassis
- Stoptech stainless brake line kit: 950.44023
- OEM: 90947-A2016
6) DIY line retension bracket (**more info in install below)
7) Brake fluid

I'm easily under $400 all said and done, which is dirt cheap for a legitimate brake upgrade. Barely more than a standard full up brake job.

Notes:
- I choose to simplify and streamline the install with minimal parts/effort by not changing the splash shield. As it is thin stamped steel, it's easily bent for the bit more clearance the larger rotor takes
- Tundra flexible line from suspension bracket to chassis is 1.6" longer, which can be expected as the Tundra suspension arms are about 1.5" wider. This works well here for either Tundra suspension swap, or stock, or extended down travel with OEM shock spacer
- The Tundra brake line setup is different (refer to below picture). The stock rubber brake line on the 200-series is a single piece, with a banjo fitting at the caliper, and retention bracket at the suspension upright. The Tundra setup requires a hardline at the caliper using a standard double flare connection. This is mated to the flexible brake line at the suspension bracket. A retention mechanism needs to be devised to secure the different line type. Potentially, there is a Tundra bracket that can be used, but this has not been identified

Tundra setup left, 200-series right
View attachment 2413683

I believe bjowett mentioned machining the tundra caliper hydraulic line inlet to take the stock banjo fitting. If we decide to do this do you think there is enough length in the stock 200-series line to accommodate the different caliper position?

 

[TeCKis300]

I believe bjowett mentioned machining the tundra caliper hydraulic line inlet to take the stock banjo fitting. If we decide to do this do you think there is enough length in the stock 200-series line to accommodate the different caliper position?

To answer your question, it's long enough. If you refer to the picture in post #2, the hydraulic line position is pretty much in the same place.

IMO, it'ss more elegant to use stock Tundra line components than machining and reworking the caliper fitting. The picture shows what the line configs look like. The Tundra has the benefit, when used with braided steel lines, to be more direct feeling because of the overall steel line config.

There's opportunity for a nicely tailored aftermarket brake line if someone can source one. Until then, the Tundra hydraulic unions fit as factory and I have no qualms about the configuration.

 

[tincan45]

I assume since the 2016+ have these, they will still fit under 17" wheels?

 

[bloc]

To answer your question, it's long enough. If you refer to the picture in post #2, the hydraulic line position is pretty much in the same place.

IMO, it'ss more elegant to use stock Tundra line components than machining and reworking the caliper fitting. The picture shows what the line configs look like. The Tundra has the benefit, when used with braided steel lines, to be more direct feeling because of the overall steel line config.

There's opportunity for a nicely tailored aftermarket brake line if someone can source one. Until then, the Tundra hydraulic unions fit as factory and I have no qualms about the configuration.

I actually view the 200 brake line as a marginally better setup due to avoiding the flare fittings and having one less junction, plus not having to deal with adding the missing line bracket. I do actually wonder why the setups are different in the first place, given how much is shared between two platforms. But, machining the caliper means you can't just go get one at a parts store if needed in the middle of nowhere. And I'm not worried about the increased brake feel of stainless flex hose and more steel line.. between my likely inability to feel it and the fact that this is a 6000lb SUV that I won't be trail braking any time soon.. using the stock 200-series line appeals to me.

Good to know there should be plenty of line.. it did occur to me after posting that the caliper only moves a few millimeters.

If I do end up machining the stock ones I'll post here so people see the different options.

I assume since the 2016+ have these, they will still fit under 17" wheels?

Yes, or I guess I should say some 17" wheels. These very brakes came on Tundras with the Rock Warrior wheel setup and obviously clear those.

 

[LBridges]

I actually view the 200 brake line as a marginally better setup due to avoiding the flare fittings and having one less junction, plus not having to deal with adding the missing line bracket. I do actually wonder why the setups are different in the first place, given how much is shared between two platforms. But, machining the caliper means you can't just go get one at a parts store if needed in the middle of nowhere. ...

Probably already widely known, but just in case...

The late model 200s (ones with larger rotor & caliper) still use the banjo fitting. So while not as cost effective, I presume you could start with up new calipers from a Toyota dealer. Then if a replacement was needed there wouldn't be machining needed.

However, I'm not too sure about getting a reman late model LC caliper in the middle of nowhere either. Just to check, I tried the Advance Auto webpage and they didn't offer any for sale.

EDIT: I didn't know about some critical mounting differences pointed out by TeCKis300 below.

 

[TeCKis300]

Install instructions in post #3 is up.

Probably already widely known, but just in case...

The late model 200s (ones with larger rotor & caliper) still use the banjo fitting. So while not as cost effective, I presume you could start with up new calipers from a Toyota dealer. Then if a replacement was needed there wouldn't be machining needed.

However, I'm not too sure about getting a reman late model LC caliper in the middle of nowhere either. Just to check, I tried the Advance Auto webpage and they didn't offer any for sale.

Unfortunately the 2016+ calipers do not drop in. The spindle mounts are different and use a different size bolt.

While I agree the banjo bolt interface is a more premium solution, the need for custom machining is a non-starter for me. There's still the potential for a nice aftermarket brake line with the perfect radius flare fitting for this application. Hopefully someone may find the right vender for one? Until then, the OEM Tundra line is a perfectly viable and sound solution.

 

[LBridges]

Unfortunately the 2016+ calipers do not drop in. The spindle mounts are different and use a different size bolt.
...

Thanks for the added info - I wasn't aware of the other differences.

 

[bloc]

Per my reading the 16+ 200 caliper seems to be "stronger" than a tundra one. The mounting ears on the caliper itself are in the same location as the early calipers, but use larger hardware by a couple mm. The ears on the knuckle itself have been moved out to accommodate the larger rotor and new caliper location. I once added up what it would cost to do a full 16+ swap, which would mean knuckles, bearings, backing plates, calipers, and a few small parts. The bill was north of $3k for all-new parts. Once 16+ LCs or LXs start making it to the scrap yards this could be a viable solution.. though finding tundra calipers will be MUCH easier and as shown in this thread much less labor than a full knuckle swap. The question is how much "stronger" the 16+ setup really is. My gut says what is done here is perfectly adequate, and still an upgrade.

And teckis you are right, there isn't a real reason not to run the tundra caliper with the flare fitting.. but machining for the banjo bolt satisfies my OCD to keep things as close to the 200-design as possible, when I don't understand why they made it different. I just have to assume they thought the banjo was "better" for some reason. In the same vein I'm considering importing 200-series 4.3s and setting them up myself vs run the used 100-series chunk with it's marginally smaller pinion. The cost isn't too far apart.. but the labor to set up the gears is.

Yes, my OCD costs me money and labor, but I've come to terms with it.

 

[Dan Lee]

Dumb question. Seems like this upgrade moves to a larger rotor but keeps the same pad size. If so, how does this allow for improved braking? Or did the pad size increase as well?

 

[bloc]

Dumb question. Seems like this upgrade moves to a larger rotor but keeps the same pad size. If so, how does this allow for improved braking? Or did the pad size increase as well?

More mass in the rotor to absorb heat under short/hard braking, and the larger diameter basically gives the brakes more leverage/torque to stop the vehicle for a given brake line pressure.

Yes at some point you’ll want a larger pad for better heat tolerance but that requires a totally different caliper and probably rotor. For how simple and cost effective this is it seems worth the marginal upgrade in performance. Plus.. toyota went to the larger rotor in 2016 200s so they felt it was worth the upgrade. With many of us having larger tires and heavier trucks on the original small rotors I’d say this is a no brainer.

 

[Dan Lee]

Ahhh. Got it. So the pads are located at the periphery of the rotor and so able to apply more rotational torque. And additional fade resistance. Makes sense.

I’d like to do this if I could find a local shop to do it, including any customization required.

 

[Rob Daman]

Thanks for sharing.

 

[4wheelgreg]

Toyota does make a TRD big brake kit for the Tundra I had on my Tundra a few years ago but big bucks for the TRD kit 2200 a few years ago on my super charged Tundra .