Go check out Ronny Dahl’s winch line break tests.
Soft isn’t risk free but so much less risky than alternatives.
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Soft isn’t risk free but so much less risky than alternatives.
- Thread starter
- #102
Done, not done.
Update time. If I reflect back on the last time I updated my build thread, a number of things big and small got added.
1) Modded HWM, keeping crash bar wings, with Warn EVO VR 10
2) Rolled rear fender for a just a bit more tire clearance
3) Swingaway Hitch Carrier v3 with upper basket
4) DIY Center Console cupholder and radio holder
5) Prototype Rear Trailing Arm Skid
Update time. If I reflect back on the last time I updated my build thread, a number of things big and small got added.
1) Modded HWM, keeping crash bar wings, with Warn EVO VR 10
2) Rolled rear fender for a just a bit more tire clearance
3) Swingaway Hitch Carrier v3 with upper basket
4) DIY Center Console cupholder and radio holder
5) Prototype Rear Trailing Arm Skid
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Great job
GTV
SILVER Star
Great build. I feel like we have a similar ethos when it comes to mods, improve without sacrificing what makes a Land Cruiser a Land Cruiser.
I'm a 100 series guy (it's a size thing) and I'm kinda bummed all your pictures from the 100 forum are gone!
I'm a 100 series guy (it's a size thing) and I'm kinda bummed all your pictures from the 100 forum are gone!
I dont even want to look at a 200 when the 470 shows up. Specially in sand dollar pearl!
What size meats were you running before/after the KO2s on the 470?
- Thread starter
- #109
- Thread starter
- #111
I probably only gained a 1/4". But that's all I needed as it was mild contact. There's probably another 1/4" that can be had with a combination of cutting and rolling if someones running a more aggressive tire or lower offset. The lip is beefy and there's a seam that can't be folded over by rolling alone.
I went with AT3s as I was aware the clearance was tight front and back there. If I went with say Falken AT3Ws or any R/T tires, there's going to be more work there to clear.
Regarding AHC spacer install, I think you found my other thread.
OEM Front Spacer Install for AHC Suspension
Why: More suspension travel to a full 10”, matching rear suspension travel. Spacer allows more droop travel by ~.75” than stock shocks allow. More front axle payload capacity by pre-loading the front shock assembly for normal heights. This is because AHC relies on two sources for support: 1)...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #112
Catching this thread up.
Long travel AHC. This has got to be one of my favorite mods, perhaps right behind 35s. It opens up a new dimension of capability with extra suspension travel and stroke. Feels like another cheat code enabled.
forum.ih8mud.com
Long travel AHC. This has got to be one of my favorite mods, perhaps right behind 35s. It opens up a new dimension of capability with extra suspension travel and stroke. Feels like another cheat code enabled.
Long Travel AHC
Probably no surprise, but I've been a big proponent oh AHC. Damping always dialed in regardless of load. Large fluid volumes and remote accumulator damper that stays cool with extended off-road travels. Actively pressurized for long term performance and durability. Combined with unique...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #113
Finished another Frankenstein creation with a compact drawer, fridge slide, and table setup.
forum.ih8mud.com
Homebrew Drawer with Roller Fridge Floor and Slide out Table
I've resisted going down the cargo drawer path. Recently removed half the 3rd row to gain additional space. Trying to downsize, simplify, and organize better. Maximize functionality with a slide out drawer, slide out fridge, and slide out table. In as minimal space and weight as possible...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #114
Along with the drawer mod, I added a house battery.
As much as I've enjoyed using the Goal Zero 1000 lithium battery over the last 4 years, there's a few shortcomings of the setup. As compact as they are, it's still space taken. There's the complexity of power adapters coming off its face that needs protection from other cargo especially when off-road and everything is moving around. The lithium chemistry is not ideal for the desert environment when some trips are in the 90°F+, and the cooling fans are engaged even without using the inverter.
With LiFePO4 battery as cheap as they are, I've opted to do a permanent installed house battery. It take what would be dead space alongside the drawer. 100Ah LiFePO4 in a stainless steel case with built in BMS, status readout, and 2x onboard USB. Supported by a Victron 12/12 18amp smart charger. Hidden behind an easily removed aluminum beauty panel. Still space enough to hide another solar charger if I decide to go that route.
I like that there's a little protected space ahead of the battery and power panel. I can stow little lights and other gadgets that need charging here while underway. The resettable fuse is handy as a main on/off switch. The Victron is powered by my SwitchPros which turns-off the supply DC.
Gotta have Anderson ports. These stay in place during heavy corrugations, unlike cig lighter plugs. Also handy to plug a portable solar panel in. 3D printed the bulkhead fitting from PETG.
As much as I've enjoyed using the Goal Zero 1000 lithium battery over the last 4 years, there's a few shortcomings of the setup. As compact as they are, it's still space taken. There's the complexity of power adapters coming off its face that needs protection from other cargo especially when off-road and everything is moving around. The lithium chemistry is not ideal for the desert environment when some trips are in the 90°F+, and the cooling fans are engaged even without using the inverter.
With LiFePO4 battery as cheap as they are, I've opted to do a permanent installed house battery. It take what would be dead space alongside the drawer. 100Ah LiFePO4 in a stainless steel case with built in BMS, status readout, and 2x onboard USB. Supported by a Victron 12/12 18amp smart charger. Hidden behind an easily removed aluminum beauty panel. Still space enough to hide another solar charger if I decide to go that route.
I like that there's a little protected space ahead of the battery and power panel. I can stow little lights and other gadgets that need charging here while underway. The resettable fuse is handy as a main on/off switch. The Victron is powered by my SwitchPros which turns-off the supply DC.
Gotta have Anderson ports. These stay in place during heavy corrugations, unlike cig lighter plugs. Also handy to plug a portable solar panel in. 3D printed the bulkhead fitting from PETG.
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- Thread starter
- #115
Enjoying the trunk setup way more than I anticipated. Fridge can run 24/7 if I want, or store runs for frozen or perishable foods anytime without running home. Taking out one seat for low profile drawer and fridge still leaves ton of room. House batt to charge electronics anytime without car on.
Thank you @Tighe for the floor matt that finishes it off.
Thank you @Tighe for the floor matt that finishes it off.
Cool install. Just curious, why the Victron? The voltage from the alternator is higher than the starter battery when alternator is off, right? So couldn't the BMS be set to only charge when the voltage is say >13.5V? And the BMS would stop charging when the house battery is full?
It has been about 18 months since I was last obsessed with building my own LiFePO4 battery, so maybe I'm missing or forgetting something.
- Thread starter
- #117
Good question. The BMS on my particular battery is a dumb BMS, or at least I cannot program it. There's other reasons for it including isolation of the house battery to starter battery
- Isolation of the different battery chemistries. Also isolation from different states of charge. Otherwise there can be microcurrent constantly between the starter batt and house batt, resulting in premature wear and failure.
- Protecting the alternator. As lithiums including LiFePO4 can very low internal resistance and can be a very large load on the alternator when charging, it's necessary to have something throttle charge current otherwise can lead to alternator failure.
- Protect starter batt from being drawn down with house loads.
Thanks for the explanation, gives me some things to look into. I built mine as an ammo can standalone, so I didn't look too closely at these issues that may come from having it wired in. I could see point #2 being a big one! My BMS is supposed to be pretty fancy, so I will have to take another look to see what I can accomplish with it (if/when I wire it in more permanently)
Julian73
SILVER Star
I'm running an independent LFP for the same reasons stated by TeCK, independently charged by a DC-DC charger and Solar option. I however did install an "emergency" link using a BlueSea 7713 Magnetic Latching Remote Battery Switch run off the auxiliary and controlled by a cabin switch that allows for linking aux to the starter battery for emergency starting or for amperage boost during winching.
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Do you have a link for the battery box? Is that whole box the same product with the usb ports and read out on it? Would you recommend it again or do a more custom job?
