Updated 9/24/2024 - Latest build on 37s
Requisite glamour shots
Long time in coming. A build thread for my ‘09 LX570. Hereby known as FLX. Yes, some mild flexing from an understated Lexus. And playing on the F-LX name and what an LX-F could be.
A core goal with the build is to have FLX-ibility. To not build with a single purpose in mind. It’s not a rock crawler, not an dedicated off-roader, not a heavy hauler, and not an overland camper. Yet it can do all those things without spoiling day to day usability as Lexus delivered it. Double date night, minivan duty for 8, tow pig, or heavy hauling; none of that has been compromised in this build. Expanding its capability envelope, beyond stock, without compromising its core virtues would describe my build well.
I would like to think It touches on some of Lexus F sensibilities and philosophies, built with some OEM considerations for engineering and balance. To perhaps imagine what a more aggressive factory performance effort could be if such a thing existed for the 200-series. As a trained and practicing engineer, my profession is about making considered design decisions for trade space, executing, and delivering aircraft designs capable of meeting production requirements. The goal with FLX is modify to expand capabilities in off-road angles and clearance (~6" total lift), increasing capacities (2,000lb payload), driving range (500 miles), minimize impacts to ride, efficiency, and handling, while returning parameters back to stock for things like suspension geometry, gearing, brakes. To that end, I prefer to use OEM parts where possible. As much as I like to modify cars, and this certainly isn’t my first rodeo, I find factory parts are far and away more engineered and reliable than aftermarket stuff. Components that go through real analysis, testing, and validation.
One major consideration to the build is to maximize payload and towing capacity. So not adding too much weight was a big factor. Weight is the great equalizer which compromises so many things including every performance measure, capability, and durability. The build has to continue to tow an 8,000lb travel trailer, or haul 2,000lb payloads. So maintaining payload for utility and performance has been paramount.
This build thread is a bit different as it’s a collection of build topics across different threads, and a retrospective look as many of the upgrades have long been done. Hopefully this also answers questions I often get about my build over PM, as this catalogs and links to various more in depth upgrade threads.
FLX has been built over several phases but is close to its final form now. More build philosophy in post #3 below, but let's first get right to the build list.
Stock on 31s, then 33s, 35s, and now what feels like build v37 of Flexus on 37s. Can't leave well enough alone and it's an itch that must be scratched.
Previous build on 35s - Builds - TeCKis300 LX570 "FLX" Build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/teckis300-lx570-flx-build.1260158/#post-13989513
Previous build on 33s - LX570 Slammed on 33's - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/lx570-slammed-on-33s.975670/#post-10874074
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The goal of v37 continues an attempt to remain faithful to the Land Cruiser (LX?) spirit as mother Toyota (Lexus?) intended - a do everything robust vehicle. Meaning it's gotta do commuting duty, easy enough for the wife to drive, road trips, tow vehicle, date night, Costco runs... everything you'd expect a stock Cruiser to do well. Just turned up to 12 for added capability. Maximizing suspension travel without limiting up travel, while making sure there is enough clearance to really play in the dirt and rocks.
35s served such a good balance in the 3 years and 40k miles in that configuration. Hope I'm not screwing up a good thing as 35s might just be the sweet spot as an Overlanding rig build. I'm interested to see if I can still find that balance on 37s. While opening up Rocklanding capabilities. Granted one of the more significant trades is gas consumption, and I have an LRA aux tank to deal with that, but I'm hoping not to give up much else.
For those joining my builds, I'm big on using OEM parts where possible. As an engineer, I can appreciate how much more developed OE parts are than shiny aftermarket stuff. I look at these builds wholistically, just as I do in my day job, so things like suspension geometry, aero, and weight are major factors in my trade space. An OEM++ build is how I like to look at it.
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Tires
37x12.50R18 Yoko Geolander AT-X (Really liking this tire as an R/T tire in capability, with A/T sensibilities)
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- On Tundra 18x8 +60 wheels finished in satin black (104lbs total with tire)
- Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers (Thanks @Artie!), effective offset +28mm
- Apex RPV fast deflators
- EZ Flate Locking Air Chucks (compatible with Apex RPVs)
Body Lift
- NST Spec custom .75" Body Lift
Highly recommend 1" or 1.5" BL which is what NST currently offers. .75" is probably less than minimum and I was willing to do the additional massaging within the fender to make this work. To keep center of gravity as low as possible, even as BLs have minimum impact. Also to keep ergonomics of getting in/out and car camping good.
Wheel Well Clearancing
See Post #2
Rear Wheel Well Clearancing
See Post #3
Additional supporting mods, previously done for 35s
Suspension
- AHC sensor lift 1.5" lift front / 1" lift rear
- AHC Long Travel
- Durobumps DBF17T Front and and DBR375 Rear
For IFS, lift doesn't necessarily apply as it doesn't change the suspension stroke limits. I want to make sure I have full clearance to stuff tires offroad when articulate. The Durobumps don't really limit travel either as they are more for g-outs in fast driving.
Brakes
- OEM Tundra front Big Brake calipers, Tundra 354mm disks
- Goodridge G-Stop Tundra braided stainless steel lines
- Hawk LTS Pads
2016+ cruisers already have the larger 354mm disks, so this is for pre-2016. The LTS pads do wonders for increasing friction and bringing back much needed leverage. Enough that it brakes with no excusses.
Gearing
- Tundra/Sequoia and 100-series OEM 4.3 gears
4.88s might be the better choice if regearing directly for 37s. I was pleasantly surprised that 4.3s feel great with 37s. 4.3s were practically stock gearing for previous 35x12.5s and IMO a better choice for that size. The impact going from 34.5" to 36.5" tall tires feel less than going from stock size to 33.2" tall tires in terms of gearing loss, and the math agrees.
Requisite glamour shots
Long time in coming. A build thread for my ‘09 LX570. Hereby known as FLX. Yes, some mild flexing from an understated Lexus. And playing on the F-LX name and what an LX-F could be.
A core goal with the build is to have FLX-ibility. To not build with a single purpose in mind. It’s not a rock crawler, not an dedicated off-roader, not a heavy hauler, and not an overland camper. Yet it can do all those things without spoiling day to day usability as Lexus delivered it. Double date night, minivan duty for 8, tow pig, or heavy hauling; none of that has been compromised in this build. Expanding its capability envelope, beyond stock, without compromising its core virtues would describe my build well.
I would like to think It touches on some of Lexus F sensibilities and philosophies, built with some OEM considerations for engineering and balance. To perhaps imagine what a more aggressive factory performance effort could be if such a thing existed for the 200-series. As a trained and practicing engineer, my profession is about making considered design decisions for trade space, executing, and delivering aircraft designs capable of meeting production requirements. The goal with FLX is modify to expand capabilities in off-road angles and clearance (~6" total lift), increasing capacities (2,000lb payload), driving range (500 miles), minimize impacts to ride, efficiency, and handling, while returning parameters back to stock for things like suspension geometry, gearing, brakes. To that end, I prefer to use OEM parts where possible. As much as I like to modify cars, and this certainly isn’t my first rodeo, I find factory parts are far and away more engineered and reliable than aftermarket stuff. Components that go through real analysis, testing, and validation.
One major consideration to the build is to maximize payload and towing capacity. So not adding too much weight was a big factor. Weight is the great equalizer which compromises so many things including every performance measure, capability, and durability. The build has to continue to tow an 8,000lb travel trailer, or haul 2,000lb payloads. So maintaining payload for utility and performance has been paramount.
This build thread is a bit different as it’s a collection of build topics across different threads, and a retrospective look as many of the upgrades have long been done. Hopefully this also answers questions I often get about my build over PM, as this catalogs and links to various more in depth upgrade threads.
FLX has been built over several phases but is close to its final form now. More build philosophy in post #3 below, but let's first get right to the build list.
Tires
- Yoko X-AT 37x12.5R18s
- 1.25” Spidertrax wheel spacers (effective +28 offset with stock +60 wheels)
- Dual Viair OBA
Suspension
- AHC Long Travel, 1.5F" / 1"R sensor lift with extended travel
- 17mm coilover top spacer
- 30mm spring spacer rear
- Airbags rear
Transmission
Brakes
Gearing
- 4.3 re-geared with OEM gears
- Sequoia front diff and clamshell assembly
- 100-series rear ring and pinion
- Harrop E-locker rear
Power
- Group 31 Deka sealed FLA starter battery
- NOCO GENIUS2 2Amp Float charger
- LiFePO4 House Battery
- Goal Zero 1000 portable lithium solar generator
- Rockauto 100W portable solar panel
- NOCO Boost X GBX45 Lithium Jump Starter
Fuel
Armor / Recovery
- Slee Slidersteps
- HWM Retaining Crash Bar Wings
- Warn VR EVO 10
- E&Es Rear Trailing Arm Skids
- E&E Offroad Low Profile Recovery Points
- E&E Low Profile Recovery Hitch
- XBull Recovery Boards
Electronics
- Tesla Style GT6 Headunit
- Urvolax 12" Rearview Mirror / Dashcam
- Switch Pros
- Rear power panel
- Weboost Reach Cellular Booster
- Prodigy P3 Brake Controller
- Btech uv-25x4
- Amazon Echo Auto
- AnyTone AT-778UV VHF/UHF Radio
- NEBO Slyde King 2K flashlight
Lighting
- LED upgrades to low beams, high beams, and fog lights
- Rigid D-Series Pro spot lights
- Scene lights
- Rock lights
- Rear Fog lights
- Underhood lights
- Baja Designs S1 Hitch Chase Lights
Roof Rack
- LC OEM Roof Rack
- 4-cross OEM bars
- Thule Evolution Roof Storage
Interior
- Center Cupholder Console
- DIY Fridge and Drawer slide
- 3D MAXpider Floor Mats
- Headrest hooks
Camping
- Airstream 27FB travel trailer
- Equalizer 1k WD Hitch
- Dometic Milenco Grand Aero3
- Yuwei 5" wifi backup cam
- Levelers for 35" tires
- iKamper v3 and HCalory diesel heater
- Swingout Hitch Carrier V1
- Swingout Hitch Carrier V2 with Water Cans
- Swingout Hitch Carrier V3 with Upper Basket
- GFC Superlite RTT
- Napier Sportz Cove hatch tent
- Window Screens
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