I winched up because we wheel alone fairly often. I've only used my winch for recovery once, but pretty sure @ethernectar was glad I had one.
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- Thread starter
- #42
Yeah, I was talking to @CharlieS and the desert expanses I typically wheel in really doesn't have much to winch to. Traction boards and snatch straps have generally solved the challenges I see in my group. Though the group has been getting more friends joining along recently at all different levels of skill including stock vehicles...getting stuck. Figured it's just another good tool, perhaps for myself one day too.
I've generally been opposed because of the weight. Figuring with relatively lightweight options of HWM (27lbs) and newer breed of winches @ ~65lbs (Warn VR EVO 10S), I can justify this? Another 100lbs to the 15,250lbs worth of rig, that's already over GCWR? The other part is that the LX drives so well in its current state, I'm not as concerned. Will always keep an eye on more weight however but may let this one slide.
I've generally been opposed because of the weight. Figuring with relatively lightweight options of HWM (27lbs) and newer breed of winches @ ~65lbs (Warn VR EVO 10S), I can justify this? Another 100lbs to the 15,250lbs worth of rig, that's already over GCWR? The other part is that the LX drives so well in its current state, I'm not as concerned. Will always keep an eye on more weight however but may let this one slide.
@TeCKis300 are you still on your original globes? Any thoughts on when you’ll replace?
If you're in the desert, to use a winch you may need a high lift handle or other solid metal bar and a BFH to pound it into the sand. I've watched a few videos of Aussie's using that technique though I've not tried it myself... around here I'm most likely to get stuck in a farmer's corn field
- Thread starter
- #46
If you're in the desert, to use a winch you may need a high lift handle or other solid metal bar and a BFH to pound it into the sand. I've watched a few videos of Aussie's using that technique though I've not tried it myself... around here I'm most likely to get stuck in a farmer's corn field
Funny thing out here is that it often is loose sand/dirt as much as it's rock. Tried to stake down a tent once and was getting nothing but straight rock. Destroyed 6 stakes and gave up. Partially why roof top tents make sense out here as winds are another challenge with minimal wind breaks. Not sure creating an anchor adhoc is going to be generally possible.
Yes @138k now. The suspension still works like factory fresh. My previous LX470 now with my brother is 16 yrs old and 191k on original globes too.
That said, I'm due for a flush. Maybe good preventative maintenance to refresh all globes ready for another 200k miles. It's not that expensive in the grand scheme of things about $800ish.
Been toying the idea of an HWM. Perhaps fabbing up a hybrid winch bumper style cover.
Testing the waters aesthetically first with photoshop .
Getting more real and trying it on with vinyl
I think the look works?
Add a couple more grill slats to that and you have a 2016 LOL
Winches can be very useful to have, even when you aren't doing "serious" wheeling. The first time I used mine was during a simple u-turn on a gravel road. Backed up too far to the edge, the bank gave out, rear wheels dropped down into the ditch and my Tacoma bottomed out on the frame. There was no getting out of that without the winch.
It's been interesting watching his channel as he has become more and more convinced of the positive aspects of a winch, as he was pretty untrusting/wary of them in his older videos. I think it may be partly due to them doing more unusual recoveries outside of sand hollow and their stomping grounds as the channel/business has grown in popularity.
A kinetic rope is more convenient and just as effective in most situations - but winch is absolutely necessary when:
- You are trying to self recover (obviously)
- When moving or yanking someone else out would compromise your own safety or ability to get out. AKA you don't want to lose the high ground by moving. A pull from a fixed position is the safest option.
Sometimes a winch is the only safe option even if you could drive forward or backward. In this situation we 100% needed 2 winches to recover the other rig safely. A kinetic rope almost certainly would've jolted them and sent them down the side of the mountain.
My buddy and I did a near identical recovery of his Tacoma some years back in Death Valley. Right rear slipped off the edge of the road, cliff right below. Had both of our winches going to pulleys off the same rock - I pulled on his sliders, he pulled himself forward. No chance of doing that kind of recovery with a snatch strap.
Straps are 100% better than nothing, but there's no replacing a winch IMO.
- Thread starter
- #55
You guys sure are convincing. Maybe I should have the wife read it herself....for safety right?
Looking at the Warn VR EVO 10k. Tell me why I shouldn't just buy the standard steel cable model for $200 less, and buy the line, fairlead, and hook I want? Probably a wash in price ultimately. And I can choose more customized things like an aluminum fairlead (stock with 10S is a steel fairlead).
Looking at the Warn VR EVO 10k. Tell me why I shouldn't just buy the standard steel cable model for $200 less, and buy the line, fairlead, and hook I want? Probably a wash in price ultimately. And I can choose more customized things like an aluminum fairlead (stock with 10S is a steel fairlead).
prwillard2
SILVER Star
I'd get the 12k just to be safe. I know your LX is a heavy beast too.
+1. Especially if you get stuck in something like mud, or have the Airstream attached. A larger winch will have an easier job doing the same task, and will be presumably safer while doing so.
I bought the Warn VR-12S, which is the predecessor to the VR EVO I think. Rule of thumb is 1.5x vehicle weight in winch pulling power. I'm right at GVWR when not towing and 7300 x 1.5 > 10k so I went with the 12k.
Synthetic line was about $150 more IIRC but being less likely to kill someone or take a limb off if it breaks I felt it was worth the $. You could buy steel and swap it but why? If you go that route you definitely need to swap the fairlead as the roller style is only for steel (which I assume you know... mostly mentioning it for others reading this thread). I just leave the hook attached to my recovery point but you might want a flatlink for your setup.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
What @linuxgod said.
I priced the Warn Evo 12 with steel and adding a synthetic line and don't think it saved any money, so I went with the Evo 12s. I suppose if I knew then what I know now and could terminate my own synthetic line, it might have saved me a few bucks, but I didn't, so I didn't.
Some brands like ComeUp offer a bare winch option (no steel or synthetic rope included). That might be another option - I've heard good things about them.
The Warn fairleads are pretty low grade. The materials, finish and bend radiuses are a lot better on the F55 fairleads. The I4WDTA instructor I've taken a couple of classes with recommends a roller fairlead for synthetic line too, since friction kills synthetic. I opted to stick with the F55 hawse anyway.
Do some reading too, since the winch rating is really only for some number of wraps, and if you're likely pulling at less than that rated amount in most situations.
Also, depending upon where you live, you may not need all of that line on the spool. Mine is cut down to 60' based on advice of people much more experienced than me. We tend to have short winch pulls in the northeast. I carry an extension in case I need it (but haven't had to use it).
I've watched/listened to a 9500lb winch strain pulling a built rig on a muddy steep trail with a single line pull (driving assisted, but poor traction) - it worked a lot harder than a 12000 lb unit in the same spot, same anchor point, same single line pull.
Also leverage mechanical advantage using snatch block(s) and appropriate tackle. A lower rated winch can move a lot more weigh than it is rated for if using the right setup. Having the right snatch blocks, shackles (hard and soft), tree savers, etc. can make a winch really versatile. Plan on spending as much on your terminal tackle as you did on the winch - "the good stuff ain't cheap".
Also, you may not need that fancy F55 bling on the end. I've had it before, but now I just have a loop at the end of my line, no hook, no F55 flatlink, etc. It is one less piece of equipment, one less point of failure and one less thing to become a projectile. Plus it keeps $150 in your pocket. I got this advice from that same instructor, and he's been doing this for a very long time for both civilians and the military and I trust him A LOT.
Last pitch - get some training with a I4WDTA certified instructor before you hurt yourself or someone else, it is well worth whatever you will pay for it. As cool as Matt's Recovery videos are, I enjoy the entertainment, but I cringe every time I watch them use the winch - his winching techniques and safety practices are really, really bad sometimes.
I priced the Warn Evo 12 with steel and adding a synthetic line and don't think it saved any money, so I went with the Evo 12s. I suppose if I knew then what I know now and could terminate my own synthetic line, it might have saved me a few bucks, but I didn't, so I didn't.
Some brands like ComeUp offer a bare winch option (no steel or synthetic rope included). That might be another option - I've heard good things about them.
The Warn fairleads are pretty low grade. The materials, finish and bend radiuses are a lot better on the F55 fairleads. The I4WDTA instructor I've taken a couple of classes with recommends a roller fairlead for synthetic line too, since friction kills synthetic. I opted to stick with the F55 hawse anyway.
Do some reading too, since the winch rating is really only for some number of wraps, and if you're likely pulling at less than that rated amount in most situations.
Also, depending upon where you live, you may not need all of that line on the spool. Mine is cut down to 60' based on advice of people much more experienced than me. We tend to have short winch pulls in the northeast. I carry an extension in case I need it (but haven't had to use it).
I've watched/listened to a 9500lb winch strain pulling a built rig on a muddy steep trail with a single line pull (driving assisted, but poor traction) - it worked a lot harder than a 12000 lb unit in the same spot, same anchor point, same single line pull.
Also leverage mechanical advantage using snatch block(s) and appropriate tackle. A lower rated winch can move a lot more weigh than it is rated for if using the right setup. Having the right snatch blocks, shackles (hard and soft), tree savers, etc. can make a winch really versatile. Plan on spending as much on your terminal tackle as you did on the winch - "the good stuff ain't cheap".
Also, you may not need that fancy F55 bling on the end. I've had it before, but now I just have a loop at the end of my line, no hook, no F55 flatlink, etc. It is one less piece of equipment, one less point of failure and one less thing to become a projectile. Plus it keeps $150 in your pocket. I got this advice from that same instructor, and he's been doing this for a very long time for both civilians and the military and I trust him A LOT.
Last pitch - get some training with a I4WDTA certified instructor before you hurt yourself or someone else, it is well worth whatever you will pay for it. As cool as Matt's Recovery videos are, I enjoy the entertainment, but I cringe every time I watch them use the winch - his winching techniques and safety practices are really, really bad sometimes.
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I'll second that. Even simple stuff like how they routinely step over tensioned winch lines just makes me cringe.
