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Wow, Im glad i read info from you guys in the know. Planning ARB lockers on my to-do list for next year. Im going to have to go the same route as you! Being as im in the middle of nowhere, its nice to be able to repair stuff quickly, without having to wait on the mail.

Awesome work Jmack. Keep it up!

Just for giggles i googled quad-oring kit. Priced about the same as regular orings. A full kit (226 orings and 36 different sizes) for only 40 bucks plus shipping at the oring store. NICE!
 
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Ball valve parking brake - is that like a line lock?
I looked into the hydraulic Park-lock type valves that uses line pressure to hold your brakes locked and a spring to release but after reading more bad reviews than good I decided to use a Swagelok/Whitey valve on the dash for now as a short term temporary parking until I can decide on the best way to do it right.

The valve is handy way to lock or drag your rear brakes when on a hill and free up your left foot to use the clutch, essentially yes it’s a manual line lock of sorts as it if offers a way to restrict the flow of fluid back to the master cylinder.





I used a SS-43F4-A 2500 PSIG valve like this: http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=SS-43GF4-A&item=
 
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Can you post a pic of how you mounted the ac condenser?
Sorry no pictures, I have all the parts to do the engine swap and install the AC but work is getting in the way of getting any significant 55 goals completed. I held the parts in place to see that they will fit but I have not made the brackets yet.

My condenser is basically 14.5” X 20.5” X 1” and will fit on the front side of the radiator core support in-between the support and the grill with a small 11” fan offset to one side.
 
I need to cobble a roof rack together for an upcoming trip and I’m not wanting to mount to the gutters.

Have any you guys come up with something like a minivan roof rack mounting system for the old pig?
 
J Mack,

I'm not sure what a mini van rack looks like, but you're not talking about going through the roof, right.
 
I was thinking about an interior structure welded to the top side were the seat belt shoulder mounts went then using structural adhesive to bond some mounts to the underside of the roof with sealed nutserts and bolting the rack from the top much like the modern cars, trucks and vans do it.

Is this a bad idea?
 
Why don't you want to use the gutters? Some of the best racks use gutters. If you don't use the gutters, you would have to drill into the roof, which would be a BIG no-no in my book.

Alternatively, you could use a hitch rack.
 
If you don't use the gutters, you would have to drill into the roof, which would be a BIG no-no in my book.

Why is drilling the roof a bad idea?

I’m asking the question not to be argumentative but to try to see if there is a correct way that it can be done similar to the way all the new vehicle do it or if it’s just a bad idea regardless of how it’s done.



Thanks.
 
So, it would have two roof supports inside, that the rack would bolt to, using the seatbelt mounts as the anchors. I would be worried about over loading it and getting a water leak. I'm sure it could be done and not leak, it would pain me to drill into a nice roof, though. Are you keeping the headliner?

Someday, I'd like to make a rack out of alum. I have eight gutter mounts with each having @ a 5" foot print. I can't speak from experience, but thinking they should hold some weight and not damage the gutter.

I shouldn't say anything though, once made a basket rack, for the bug, out of two grocery carts. Camped all over the South with it.
 
Yes basically I would have some ¼” plate burned out to make six to eight interior pads that would have legs welded down to the heavy structure where the shoulder harness was bolted, the pads themselves would be bonded to the roof skin with a structural adhesive that would make them a permanent mounting point without inducing cracks to the thin skin from welding. This would all fit between the roof skin and headliner and all the metal I’m looking at inside my pig is way more suitable to hold the weight of a rack then my gutters.

I’ve been studying my wife’s rack on her Volvo minivan and it’s bolted from the top through the roof skin and I like to low profile this system allows you to do.



I agree this could be a terrible idea but at this point I’m not sure why.
 
It's sounding better, but I'm confused with the 6 to 8 pads. Only 4 seatbelt mounts or do you mean, just welding the pad legs to that general area, similar to what I did.

IMG_2458.JPG
 
It's sounding better, but I'm confused with the 6 to 8 pads. Only 4 seatbelt mounts or do you mean, just welding the pad legs to that general area, similar to what I did.

Yes just welding to the general area.


Guys are doing something similar to Jeeps on the expedition rigs but they are using fiberglass.


Structure4.jpg


Link: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/safari-cab-custom-hardtop-project-952157/index105.html


And another link: http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/47703-Budget-roof-rack-basket
 
I'm caught up with you, now. Definitely need some type of bolt sealant, grommet, etc. Good research!
 
Why don't you want to use the gutters? Some of the best racks use gutters. If you don't use the gutters, you would have to drill into the roof, which would be a BIG no-no in my book.


I'm caught up with you, now. Definitely need some type of bolt sealant, grommet, etc. Good research!

I’m looking at rack ideas and I like the look of the racks that contour to the roof lines and all of them mount similar to this one.

Is the biggest concern a potential leak or strength?


roofrack-12-12-2.jpg




You guys have been around a lot longer that I have and I don't want to go down a path you have already seen fail.


Thanks.
 
I don't think anyone has gone down this path, mainly because pig roofs are so weak and prone to rust. Looks like a lot of work compared to using the gutters which most expedition racks have provisions for. I hear you on the lower profile/drag, but most people add racks to haul serious cargo that modern (integrated) racks aren't capable of supporting. If it meets your requirements I say go for it ;)

Tucker
 
I hear you on the lower profile/drag, but most people add racks to haul serious cargo that modern (integrated) racks aren't capable of supporting. If it meets your requirements I say go for it ;)

Tucker
Thank you Tucker,

I’m looking at the load capacity of 300# driving and 600# static on a Gobi rack that is very similar to the one I would build. I was planning on using the same 16 gauge (.065”) 1” DOM tubing they use but I also have 13 gauge (.095”) 1” DOM if you think I would need more capacity. Do you think you would haul more than 300 – 600 pounds up top on a pig?

Link to Gobi rack: http://www.doubleblackoffroad.com/jeep-wrangler-parts/GOBI-Toyota-FJ-Cruiser-Stealth-for-06-Up#
 

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