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So how was getting it down....lol

It wasn’t too bad to get it turned around once the Jeep with a winch showed up:doh:. It took more time for my friends to give me grief then find enough extensions to get a cable down to me then it took to drive out. The issue wasn’t the angle as much as the spare tire size lava rocks just under the marshy surface.
 
Early 70 axles are bolt in and same width.

@AlbertoSD has an elocked pair for sale in classifieds thinking rickd had cable locked, which are rare.

Spoke to a west coast importer who quoted ~$5k for a complete pair of cable locked....both needing rebuilt, late last summer.

Cool, but price may dictate their remaining under a 70.

70 axles are same width as 60 axles, but bolt-on to a 40 or 55?
And you get a cable operated parking brake out at the drums (self-adjusting)?
Cool!
 
To fit 70 series axles I had to relocate the spring perches .25" per side to work on my 55. The width of the 70 series axles are .5" wider than a 40/55 axle. They do have a cable actuated self adjusting parking brake setup. They also had a full floating option.
 
I need to order some Stressproof Turned, Ground & Polished Round bar for an axle alignment jig.

Are you guys using 1.25” or 1.5” for your Toyota axles?

After I cut the housing and machined off the ball I noticed the housing was bored off center so I just matched what Toyota did.


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Test fitting the Ruff Stuff SOA spring perches. It looks like I’m going to have to machine quite a bit off these to work for SUA.


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So I spent the day making an axle jig and I looked all over the interwebs for dimensions and found conflicting information so I’ll just post what I did for the next guy.



The jig I had for ford housings used a 1.5” shaft and this seems to be the standard for commercial rear housing jigs but seems too big for the Toyota front housings. The inner oil ring on my housing measured just over 1.375” so unless you removed this ring a 1.5” shaft wouldn’t fit. I wanted to use 1.250” shaft but I was going to have to order it and I’m impatient so I picked up some 4140 HT turned, Ground and Polished 1.375” round and made some spuds from some 6061 to fit.

I gave everything .005” clearance and plan on using the Toyota center section to hold the center bearing pucks.



This is the inner oil ring that is preventing you from using a 1.5” shaft. If I had to do it again I think I would have waited for the 1.250” shaft, after taking a closer look at my rings it looks like something might have rubbed on them at some point wearing them out to 1.380”ish and my 1.375” shaft may be too tight. And I will need to remove them anyway.


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Spud holding the ball.

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The Jig.



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JMack,

Nice jig, you have some good talents. The oil ring, you speak of, is that the axle oil seal. If so, I'd replace that just because.
 
It's not the oil seal that's replaceable from the outside but a steel oil shield that's pressed in to the inside of the knuckle ball and only accessible from the inside of the housing making a PITA to reinstall if you knocked it out.
 
So I spent the day making an axle jig........I picked up some 4140 HT turned, Ground and Polished 1.375” round and made some spuds from some 6061 to fit.

That's all?

Pshaw....amateur, but since you've put forth a good effort, think the right thing to do, as a community, is help you by practicing a few more times.

I'll selflessly go first, just PM address.
 
That's all?


This appears to be a the theme for a 55 build, spend two days trying to locate the part, spend the next 24 hours soul searching how to tell the wife I’ve decided to take a second on the house, chicken out on talking to the wife and devote a solid 8 hours to a plan “B” and decide to just make the part myself, spend three days reading conflicting internet information on how to accomplish my goals then the next two days making the one off specialty tools so I can do the job myself.

So to answer your question, yes this is how I spent the last 8 days 8 hours to save exactly no money on a cool tool that I’ll only ever use once and still no closer to having a new frontend.
 
Like Chris said, repeat over and over until one day we have them done. If it's any consolation, I'd hang that tool on the wall, but maybe not in the living room! :)
 
Resounding theme.


Like Chris said, repeat over and over until one day we have them done.


And you two are not helping with all the updates to your build threads.

Is it wrong to covet another man’s Pig? :pig:

I’m starting to think Pig envy is an incurable disease and we need ribbons and wrist bands to bring awareness to this sad sad ailment.
 
Just parking this here for the guys that have never use a jig for straightening a front/rear end housing after welding or as a holding fixture for the ends when shorting or lengthening a housing.

Link: http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Straightening_a_rear_end_housing

I need to send this to my friend who bought a e-locked rear end for his Taco, drove 8 hours to Cruise Moab, then 8 hours back home and at the end has all this unexplained wear on his new tires...
 
Pigs or women aren't any different than a new car, with the sticker still affixed to the glass.

It's OK to look at another, not OK to test drive another, and leasing with the option to buy another is the quickest way to wind up walking, with no cars at all.
 
I need to send this to my friend who bought a e-locked rear end for his Taco, drove 8 hours to Cruise Moab, then 8 hours back home and at the end has all this unexplained wear on his new tires...

In my limited experience every axle housing that has been welded on after it left the factory is warped to some degree and depending on the amount your bearings will $hit the bed sooner than later and or tire wear is severe.

Continually throwing tires and bearings at a bent housing is not an option for me and short of building or buying a permanent housing fixture like big shops use an I-beam and this simple jig will get the job done correctly and is cheap insurance if you’re going to be doing it yourself.
 

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