Target carrier (1 Viewer)

[scrapdaddy]

Very good! I bought the same y pipe from Restomod and like you said, it's way too big. You have more vents than me, but I need to do this all the same. I like the idea of the restrictor for the side vents, never gave that a thought. I'll be going to Home Depot to get my bag of fittings. My thought was to wait until the wiring is done, then try to fit around.

Thanks for posting this!

 

[J Mack]

My thought was to wait until the wiring is done, then try to fit around.

I had the same thought but regret it now. Ducting and heat/AC supply hoses are larger and harder to move than wires and all the loose wires suck to work around.

This picture gives a better idea of how cramped it's getting.

 

[onemanarmy]

Might ambitious with that 10k RPM tach eh?

Looks great. Thanks for keeping us updated.

 

[J Mack]

Might ambitious with that 10k RPM tach eh?

Looks great. Thanks for keeping us updated.

LOL, that would be extremely ambitious with a 4BT…



I’m using a Dakota Digital flywheel tooth counter for my tach drive and I can half the input number essentially doubling my output and turning this into a 5000 RPM tach, when I talked to the tech guy at AutoMeter he led me to believe they could make a new face plate and install for a minimal charge. I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it but for now I’ll run it as is.

 

[PabloCruise]

Where did you get the 90s?

 

[J Mack]

Where did you get the 90s?

Go back one page and I show the parts I picked up at the Home Depot..

 

[OldBeachBob]

Thanks Bob, We still need to get my old plates transferred over to you soon!



I'm ready when ever is good for you. Should have the tail light gaskets early this week. I'll bring them down.

 

[Megadoomer]

LOL, that’s the exact look I wasn't going for, I like the look of the old school individual gauges but it got a bit cluttered with everything I needed, if I had to do it again I would have bought one of the Auto Meter LCD dashes and been done.

That autometer deal is a sweet gauge setup except $4300 is what I paid formy pig.

 

[J Mack]

That autometer deal is a sweet gauge setup except $4300 is what I paid formy pig.

Funny, I think Ron and I are right around $5000 on our builds also. I think it's a solid number for a Pig!

 

[scrapdaddy]

That's what I'm figuring!

 

[J Mack]

I learned something new today, I am using a pusher fan on my AC condenser to keep pressures in check when driving slow trails or sitting at a stop and the plan was to just have it run whenever the compressor was running. Well after a call into Restomod I talked to Jon and he set me straight with a Trinary pressure switch that is designed just for this application.



“Trinary switches combine low and high pressure compressor clutch cut-off functions plus an electric fan engagement signal at 254 psi. The low pressure cut-off of these trinary switches is 30 psi and the high pressure cut-off is 406 psi. Perfect usage when running electric fans”



More info here: http://www.restomodair.com/shopproducts/trinary-pressure-switch/

 

[scrapdaddy]

JMack,

I picked up some fittings today, but mine are white, you didn't ceramic coat them! Talked to Jon and he confirmed a thought I had. I want to use the two side vents for defrost and cooling, so I'm going to try and run two hoses to each side vent, using the y pipes. Make sense? I only have four front vents, so sharing the vent with defrost should work.

I don't need the trinary switch, just a plain safety switch, running a mech. fan.

The project just keeps growing!

 

[J Mack]

I used ABS fittings that are black..

 

[J Mack]

I found a handy chart for choosing the correct wire size for a DC circuit, the Ridgid lights I bought have undersized wires and I’m trying to size a bulkhead connector, my Ugly’s book is very little help for this one so I’m using the interwebs.

https://www.bluesea.com/resources/1437



http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg

 

[npulver]

Thats a cool chart! IMO things that are within a 20ft range and low amp should be MOSTLY obvious. Pretty cool to see whats susggested for higher amp at the same range.

 

[npulver]

Somewhat related, but im sure your already past this point. One of the older hot rod guys i work with taught me a nice trick for battery wiring the other day. Instead of using your standard battery cable for battery leads, he was telling me to use welding cable (typically cable for your ground wire or power wire to the welder) Even with it being 0 or 00 it is MUCH more flexible and has less resistance than standard battery cable. Instead of having 10 strands of wire it has more like 20-30 (aprox.) It is more expensive ($2-$2.50 a foot) but its what i'll be using to run all my cable.

Food for thought for those who havent gotten that far yet.

 

[J Mack]

IMO things that are within a 20ft range and low amp should be MOSTLY obvious.

Mostly obvious yes but were I ran into trouble with my Rigid light is they uses 14AWG wire at the light and it pulls 23 amps, by the time I run wire from my fuse panel to the switch then up the pillar and back to the light I’ll have about 8’ of wire, conventional wisdom says to run 10AWG wire and be safe with the wire burred under my headliner, problem is weather tight bulkheads get unreasonably large and hard to find for 10AWG not to mention finding something that will work for 10-14 AWG wire. Chassis grounds as opposed to dedicated grounds would shorten my total run length but I would rather run larger wire and not chase electrical issues later

I have always used American Wire Gauge (AWG) wire sizes and rated ampacities charts so the rule of thumb for bundled common wire size I use is,

Size / Amps

10 = 30

12 = 20

14 = 15

The problem with my rule of thumb is I error to the safe side and often times over size the wire unnecessarily.



I’m trying to say under 3% total voltage drop on all my circuits and I looked at a bunch of charts that vary wildly on size recommendations for 12V/DC applications, what I liked about the Blue Sea chart is it takes into account acceptable voltage drop and gives you that information and saves me time running into the office to use the online calculator.

Online calculator: http://www.nooutage.com/vdrop.htm

 

[J Mack]

Most all the circuits are ran and I’m getting ready to wrap with harness tape.

Hopefully I can literally wrap up this cluster *&$% wiring soon and move on to something else..

 

[scrapdaddy]

Man, That photo just made me open a beer. Most of all that is going to your bulkhead connector, right?

 

[J Mack]

Man, That photo just made me open a beer. Most of all that is going to your bulkhead connector, right?

(Pro Tip) You cannot drink enough light beer to make the pain go away that’s why I now drink whiskey when working on my wiring.



Yes every wire that exits the cab will go through the bulkhead connector .