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Link suspension should have one. I was going to try it with out but I think it will be sloppy on the highway.
 
Any possibility of running it from the front?

BE69A188-743E-48C7-9766-8D48EEECC459.jpeg
 
What are the holes in the middle of the 80 radius arms for? And can I attach my sway bar there

That would be perfect if it's correct to do, but way over my pay grade. I've got a front sway bar even on mine and I like the feel of it driving highways, etc. I don't do a lot of tech. offroading, so 🤷‍♂️
 
The only concern I’m seeing with going to the trac bars is that you still have the leverage from the axle weight out beyond there. Not sure if it would actually work the way it’s intended. Guess you could just try it and see🤷🏻‍♂️
 
@RUSH55 it is just a 3rd class leaver. The same principle used to determine spring rate based one where your spring attaches would be used to determine the resistance of the sway bar.

@bobm supposed to like that is just what everyone else does or because of some kind of mechanical reason?
 
@RUSH55 the front is not as easy as in the picture. The pitman arm becomes a nuisance turning left and dealing with articulation.
 
Well, that and the steering box you have. Based on what I’m seeing in your thread here, if I were to ever do a coil front, I’d go with a Saginaw box that mounts to the inside of the frame, like what @DoubleNickels did. That would be a legit way to go with a low-pro SOA also, and prevent the whole pitman arm/relay rod interfering with the front leaf pack at full left wheel stuff. Not that anyone is really doing SOA’s anymore....
 
I had a Saginaw that mounted to the inside. It didn't work well with the LS. Maybe an accessory rearrangement could have fixed it. Im also looking at a pitman arm that curves to the passenger so not to intrude as much while turning left. Ill figure it out. Always do.
 
This guy has an "out of the box" way of doing the sway bar.

Sorry man, I am no help. Love seeing what you’re doing though.
Wrong. You have great input on a lot of things. Im just trying to see what my options are. I don't think I have the room to do that setup anyway. I was thinking I have to run a bar on the axle and link up to the frame. Should be minimal added unsprung weight. But finding the unicorn bar that has the length and curves is going to be fun.
 
it is a pre-emptive assumption. The stock 80 has them and my pig was wiggly before. I might not need it or maybe I can tune the coilovers to not need them. I will try it out when I get up and running but I need to paint the frame and the last thing I want to do is have to add more brackets down the road.
 
but I need to paint the frame and the last thing I want to do is have to add more brackets down the road.
Yeah because grinding a little paint at some point in the future is way more work than welding brackets for a sway bar that may or may not work or even be needed at this point in the build?
 
One of the things I’ve noticed with the low-pro SOA guys is the once arched, now flattened, rear leaves cause some wonky handling during highway driving. As you go over uneven surfaces the springs rapidly articulate between negative and positive arch. A lot of that could probably be controlled with a set of quality shocks, but I wasn’t sure if either you or Evan were running sway bars in the rear, which would probably help also.
 

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